Fj62 intermittent starting issue!!!!!

[mt hood cruiser]

so I have been reading all the other related starter posts and my situation is somewhat similar but not exactly the same. I have an 88 FJ 62 that I purchased from the PO about 4 years ago. At the time he stated it had an issue with the fuel pump and would sometimes randomly not start...I drove the rig daily for several years and had no issues until recently. I started with checking the fuel delivery by pulling a line. No fuel. So I ordered up a new fuel pump and fuel filter and replaced them over the weekend. I also flushed out the tank and removed any contaminants. I got the rig together and click, click, nothing. Pulled the lines again tested and fuel pump is delivering fuel. Pulled the starter and bench tested and it is working great. So I checked the voltage and found the cable to the starter was not delivering enough volts. So I replaced the cable and rebuilt the fusible links. Started right up! Drove to the gas station filled ER' up and crank, crank no start !!!!!! Put it in neutral pushed it into a parking spot and trouble shot my connections and grounds...everything looked ok. Got in cranked and fired right up. Drove to the store yesterday fired up twice no problem. Started it up this morning no problem, drove 12 miles to the DMV for new tags and when I went to leave crank, crank, no START! Just got a ride home via a flatbed and went to pull out my keys and figured what the hell try it again....started right up!!!!! To recap:

• New fuel pump
• New fuel filter
• New battery line to starter
• Rebuilt fusible links

It will crank over fine but still seems to only start randomly cold, warm, no matter....sometimes it starts after being pushed in neutral or towed home
I am thinking of contacting CDan and ordering a FPR and maybe a neutral safety switch or EFI relay?
If its cranking over fine, wouldn't that rule out a neutral safety switch? Please help frustrated as hell at this point!!!

 

[cwwfj60]

yes that should rule out the neutral safety switch, EFI relay is definitely a possibility although I have no experience with those on fj62's only newer japanese, fuel pressure regulator would not be intermittent, at least I've never seen it. I don't know what the relay cost, but that's where I would put my money, i understand your frustration, intermittent problems are so difficult to diagnose. Any chance it's flooding? does the engine cranking speed up/lose compression when it doesn't start? maybe temp sensor causing that?

 

[mt hood cruiser]

I'm not sure flooding would be an issue since it cranks consistently but doesn't attempt to fire at all and it doesn't really smell of fuel after cranking for awhile. There also doesn't seem to be any correlation between letting it sit for some time after a failed start attempt and then it actually firing up? Any way to test the EFI relay?

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Make sure your fuel injector harness is grounded.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Any way to test the EFI relay?

Great question. Anyone?

 

[mt hood cruiser]

So update, I pulled up fault codes according to the manual, and there weren't any. I ordered a new set of fusible links since the PO removed them and just wired everything to the battery, and I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and have been driving my 88' everyday this week without incident until this afternoon! I had a meeting about 5 miles from my work and started no problem. I drove there and the rig sat for about 45 minutes and when I went out to start it, my old friend reared its ugly head and I cranked and cranked but no fuel so it wouldn't start. I went back after work tonight about 5 hours later and it started right up where I proceeded to drive it right back to my shop.....now I have done the on vehicle inspection according to the manual and it tests out fine and has adequate pressure in the fuel return hose. I am now at a loss and am looking at the cold start injector, the EFI relay the EFI ???????????please help out there if you have any good advice it would be much appreciated!!!!!!!

 

[3_puppies]

2 things I had issue with on my 88, the harness plug in the driver rear wheelwell gets corroded, no power thru it, pump wouldn't run. you access this from the top below the jack mount. you can wire direct by pulling the plug out the bottom and repairing.
other issue was when my rig was warm and shut off for an hour or two it would crank and not start. ended up changing out the computer box behind the glove compartment. I couldn't diagnose anything else, it was a guess but haven't had the problem in 4 years.

 

[mt hood cruiser]

How much did the computer box cost? I will pull the connector tomorrow and take a look and see if it's corroded. I appreciate the advice. Intermittent problems are super frustrating.

 

[3_puppies]

How much did the computer box cost?

I found a used one here on mud, IIRCC it was under $100 mailed to me. Just make sure it is from an 62 series as the early 80 series are different.

 

[Jerry D.]

Neutral safety switch is OK if starter runs.

The EFI Main Relay: with ohmmeter, check continuity between RED wire and BROWN wire, should be some continuity. With ohmmeter check continuity between RED/YELLOW wire and YELLOW/RED wire, should be no continuity.

Then apply battery voltage to RED and BROWN wires, and check continuity between RED/YELLOW and YELLOW/RED wires, should have continuity.


I would think the ‘circuit opening relay’ is the bad item. Test that the fuel pump is working by jumping +B and FP in the ‘check connector’, if pump is good, remove jumper. Now remove main coil wire OR starter wire at starter solenoid so engine will not start. Have someone hold the return hose from fuel rail to fuel tank and turn ignition to start. Return hose should have flow of gas going thought it if showing if the 'circuit opening relay' is good or bad.


Good luck,

Jerry D.

 

[John McVicker]

Please define...is it click, click, click, the starter clicks but the engine doesn't turn over. Or does the engine go crank, crank, crank but doesn't start. Click & crank are 2 entirely different faults with 2 entirely different fixes.

John

Edit: clarification

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

mine needed a jump yesterday- on my way to go pick up the freshly rebuilt alternator. went ahead and sprang for a battery, too. got all the parts I need to build a headlight harness, and going to redo the alt to battery wire and the battery to chassis and engine ground wires. the guys at the battery shop said the old battery was holding at that time, but that it was old- it WAS old; said the alt was charging- showed me their 14 volts on the meter. later, the volt meter showed about 12 volts with lights on, but my electrical meter showed that the battery terminals were at 12.8, and the post on the alt said it was pushing 13.9. point is, if yours is doing the click thing, then check your battery cables too.

 

[mt hood cruiser]

As i wrote earlier the engine cranks and will turnover. Not a starter click click issue whatsoever. It is an intermittent fuel supply issue. The fuel pump is new and tests ok through the jumper wire test. I will get a helping hand tomorrow for the return line test.When it won't start there are no fault codes. Jerry I am a bit confused on the open relay test. If the fuel is returning then the relay is good? Thanks guys.

 

[gabethetree]

I currently have a similar issue with my 90 fj62. Mine seems to be a little more consistent with it being correlated to how long it has sat since running though. I haven't, till now, found anything similar. This only occurs for me when my truck has been off for right around an hour give or take. It doesn't do it when cold such as in the morning or if I had just run into a store for a few minutes. The starter cranks fine, but doesn't want to fire. Sometimes it fires, but dies out pretty quickly. I have to try starting it about 5 or 6 times holding the ignition for about 2 seconds each time. It will finally fire up and runs perfectly smooth. I know that I accidentally broke the wire for the 'cold start timer switch' right at the plug. Tried to dismantle the plug and reattach, but no dice yet. My assumption right now has been that since the computer has bad data from that sensor (or lack of sensor) and won't start. After trying a couple of times, then it may resort to a more generic configuration that finally allows it to fire up. I was hoping the problem would go away once I replace the wiring harness all together. It's been a while since I've checked, but I don't think I had any error codes and I definitely don't have the engine light on. If you haven't done so yet, try finding a way to test that switch to see if it's functioning properly.

 

[willflow]

Sounds like bad connections or relays to me. You can also check the wires in harness for high resistance or breakage. Don't count out the ignition switch either as it feeds power to different places with separate wires. Also make sure your fuses are not corroded.

 

[Jerry D.]

Jerry I am a bit confused on the open relay test. If the fuel is returning then the relay is good?

Return flow/pressure indicates the pump is running and the relay is working.

My understanding of the Fuel System circuit:

When you go to START, you put voltage through the Neutral Start Switch (which also puts power to the starter) to a coil in the Circuit Opening Relay to ground which closes the Circuit Opening Relay. This action closes a switch in the Circuit Opening Relay to start the Fuel Pump. (See solid RED lines in picture START.)

This allows the engine to start/run.

Because the engine is now running, you have air flow through the Air Flow Meter which closes a switch in it and causes another coil in the Circuit Opening Relay to keep the relay closed to keep the Fuel Pump running. (See solid BLUE line in picture RUN.)


Clear as mud,

Jerry D.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Scouring some old posts here, hunting EFI demons once again. Can anyone take a picture of this connector (mounted below the jack on the driver's side rear wheel well) that tends to get corroded? Or at least tell me what to look for - there are a mess of wires back there. Some go to the tail lights, others to the rear window washer reservoir... is there one I'm missing?

 

[3_puppies]

Scouring some old posts here, hunting EFI demons once again. Can anyone take a picture of this connector (mounted below the jack on the driver's side rear wheel well) that tends to get corroded? Or at least tell me what to look for - there are a mess of wires back there. Some go to the tail lights, others to the rear window washer reservoir... is there one I'm missing?

I had pics posted 6-7 years ago, you need to remove the jack stand base/mount, once removed you will see the connector near the bottom of the inner wheelwell,

I found the pics.

 

[DoubleNickels]

This is incredibly helpful, thank you!

 

[KruiserK]

Here's a great source for connections if you find you need them.
OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha