Builds fj62 gets a lift (1 Viewer)

[Wile E Coyote]

just got the brakes put together, bearings and seals in, dif cover and axle housing cleaned up and short side shat in. went to put in the long side and noticed this...
View attachment 819388

i really don't want to put in a bad shaft after all the work i just did. i don't seem to have a wrecker with any landcruisers around so i'm not sure where to get a new one. it's a 89 FJ62 but will any long side 60 series axle shaft work?

now i'm kinda stuck unless someone around saskatoon sk has an extra one for sale!! (hopeful )

That's the oil seal surface buggered up, right? If so, a strip of emery cloth to flatten raised spots and the appropriate sized Speedi-sleeve coulda got you back in business.

 

[franklin40]

yeah i guess thats what surface is damaged. it's inside the axle seal and rolls on the bearings. the pits are way too deep for emery cloth. new to me axle i think is the only thing to fix this problem.

whats a speedi-sleeve?

 

[franklin40]

ok so i got the ARB stuff all wired up according and double checked to the wiring diagram. pump fires up as supposed to. haven't tried the locker yet as the rear diff is still apart. tried the dimmer switch and no dimming. i attached the dimmer wire to the cigarette lighter light red wire. switches light up but don't dim. when i put the dimmer wire to the green wire on the cigarette lighter light they dim but only as i turn the dimmer up. then brighten up when i turn the dimmer down. what have i done and how do i fix this? i'm kinda electrical retarded. thanks.

 

[franklin40]

can anyone tell me how I should be wiring these switches to get the dimmer to work properly? I can't seem to find any answers and with all the ARBs out there someone has to have figured it out. also how long does a charge in the compressor cylinder last. if the truck sits over night the charge is gone. is this norm or do I have a leak. it doesn't bother me just want to know what to expect. thanks for the help.

 

[franklin40]

here's the pump mounted and wired up. i have the pump up kit for it to which should be a nice addition. this is the switch set up in the dash. some mild trimming was needed to get them to fit. these parts came with the pump up kit. what are they for and do i need to leave them on the quick coupler?

can any one tell me what this part on my ARB pump quick coupler is for?

 

[franklin40]

finally got everything back together. locker works great but the compressor doesn't hold it's charge for very long. can anyone tell me how long the tank should stay charged before the compressor kicks in again. (with no use of the compressed air in the tank)? my grinding noise is now gone with the new axle and bearings in place. the clunk I had in the rear is gone since inserting the washers. now I have to do it up front and put in caster shims. my heater works properly again. it was a lot if work but I'm on the road again and running well again. I think I just need to do a few adjustments to the rear brakes and it'll be perfect.

 

[franklin40]

short update. the locker works great but I think I may have an air leak somewhere because the pump cycles every five minutes or so when engaged. the rear spring clunk is gone now that the washers are in place. I must do the front now. I think I made my driveline vibrations worse by putting in a 4 degree shim from the three already in there. I may try two degrees (just trying to fine tune things). I also found two exhaust hangers broken today so re welded them. over all I'm quite happy with the results. oh and my bearings and new axle are super quiet. no noise from the rear of the truck anymore!!

 

[franklin40]

oh and another note. it's soooo nice having a proper truck again. I drove my mother in laws wrangler for the week while I was fixing mine. don't tell her but what a waste of money . the only thing I even sort of liked was that the doors felt solid when you close them. that's it.

 

[franklin40]

new 4 plus bumpers for the rig. front one is super easy to put on. only had 8 rivets to cut and pound out to get the bumper mounts off.

the rear on the other hand is a little more work. there are 22 rivets to grind, drill and pound and some are in tight spots. i have 4 more to go. the last 4 on each side are the body mount rivets that get replaced with bolts. i have put the bolts in for the time being to support the body mount and hopefully will have the rear bumper on by the end of the weekend. once that rear cross member is off its easy to bolt the bumper on. both seem very well made and have a nice design. cant wait for some accessories like winch and lights. i am probably going to do something that every fibre in my body is saying don't do and that's cut a hole in the rear bumper for a flush mount trailer wiring. the finish is just so nice its hard to cut something so perfect but i don't want wiring hanging down under the bumper. i'll post pictures once done the rear.

 

[franklin40]

as per my last couple posts I am putting new bumpers on my truck. I have a swing out tire carrier on the new bumper and want to remove my spare tire from under the truck. it's frozen solid with rust! I guess I've had false sense of security for the past 100 000km (including a trip to Alaska on some pretty remote roads) thinking I had access to the spare. there's no way I could have gotten it off on the road side. any thoughts as to how to break it free. I don't want to break the handle for the jack by twisting too hard trying to lower the tire. should I just cut it off? I don't plan on reusing it but could be convinced if anyone sees a good reason to do so.

 

[franklin40]

picked up some grey leather BMW seats today. pretty good shape too. $460. fully powered and heated. no pics right now however. super comfy though. cant wait to install them. i was lucky enough to grab a set of torfab's last few bracket sets. i need to put some sliders on before i install them though. they have a little bit of a side bolster on them which i like the feel of but my wife will need something to step up on to to get over the bolster. i'll hopefully get them in and installed by next winter when the heated seat will be sooo nice!!

 

[SteveH]

I had this happen on a 4Runner xfer output flange - it was loose, but the OEM/factory staking job was intact. I would remove the stake from the nut, torque the nut to spec and restake it. It can't really hurt - you'll get more warning if your pinion bearing is shot or if you have internal trauma in the rear end. If your other option is paying a shop $1500 to redo the rear end, then tightening the nut for free seems like a good first step.

 

[KruiserK]

Do you mind posting some pics of the bumpers on your truck? I have the same color 62 and most likely going to order them. Just want to see how they look. Cheers!

 

[franklin40]

here you go

 

[franklin40]

a winch i think will really fill the front out.

 

[KruiserK]

Thank you! Looks great. I just ordered the bumpers today. I'm doing a bunch of other things, so the winch will have to wait $$$

 

[gregnash]

How much more does the 4+ bumper weigh vs. the stock? I know that the stock aint light but I love the look of the 4+.

 

[franklin40]

the two bumpers and the palate that was made to ship them all weighed in at about 350 lbs. the bunpers are quite a bit heavier than stock but will hold up to a lot more than the stock ones. they are kind of flimsy in my opinion. KruiserK post some pictures when you get yours all together. i'd love to see it

 

[KruiserK]

Will do. What's your wheel/tire set-up?

 

[franklin40]

16x8 3.625 back space allied rock crusher rims with 285/75/16 ( off the top of my head so may be different) duratracs studded for winter. I'll go to bfgoodrich at for summer