Big dog, i hope you got the heavy springs...
Builds fj62 gets a lift (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter franklin40
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- Thread starter
- #22
yup heavies. it rides really nice with him in the back. i just bought an angle finder and measured my pinion angle. i'm pointing up 6 degrees relative to the output flange on the transfer case. i'm betting this may be part of my problem with vibration. i think it's the next thing to try and correct anyway. does anyone have a good recommendation for where to get some steel shims? also for those who have shimmed their axle do i need a longer center pin on my springs? can i still use the rubber insulators (yes i resued them when i did the lift) or should i get those pin centralizers that other posts talk about (and if so who sells them)? thanks for any input.
Man-a-free sells the pin centers. I had to re-use the rubber isolator center block on my pickup but they were getting rusty and starting to fall apart. When I re-do the rear I will loose those and get some centering spacers from man-a-free.
You will need longer leaf spring center bolts when you add a shim. You have to remove the old one, put the shim on just like an extra leaf and run the new bolt through it all, then cut off the extra bolt length.
You will need longer leaf spring center bolts when you add a shim. You have to remove the old one, put the shim on just like an extra leaf and run the new bolt through it all, then cut off the extra bolt length.
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- #24
thanks. I think that's what I'll do then. I really didn't want to get it all apart and find that I needed a part I didn't have.
I put a 5" shackle on the front of mine and used a 6-degree shim for the front. I bought mine from CCOT but they are aluminum. Not sure who makes a steel but if you look around you should be able to find some. Just make sure you get a longer leaf spring center bolt if the shims don't come with it.
We are at the same point. 4" MAF sr w/ Dakar ...at driveline shop to get shaft shortened, shim'd and probably ujoint . I will check the grease pressure as well and drain as described if needed. I will let you know my results tomorow...
My vibes come in @ 20 and leave @ 30mph..from rear shaft (bind?). Only w/ acceleration load.
My vibes come in @ 20 and leave @ 30mph..from rear shaft (bind?). Only w/ acceleration load.
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- #27
well I got my 6 degree shims in the mail today. I ordered some steel ones from WFO Concepts. they are quite nice and reasonably priced. shipping was a bugger but oh well. now I'm just waiting for the longer center pins and pin bushings from man-a-fre. hopefully this will sort out my vibrations. crossing my fingers anyway.
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- #28
i got my center bold spacers this week so thought id get the shims in today to fix my rear pinion angle. it went super fast as all the parts are relatively new. soooo much nicer than 30 year old parts. while i was at it i also removed the rubber spring insulators and removed a leaf from the packs (my wife felt it was a little rough and i don't have any aftermarket gear to weigh it down yet). stink bug is now gone and it is smooth but the vibration is actually worse. my next step was to inspect the drive line again. well i found that the pinion flange is now loose. this is new to me. when i put the OME springs on in the fall it was super tight. it has quite a bit of play now. i think the poor pinion angle caused my vibration and now has worn or loosened something. does this sound like i may have worn my pinion bearing? i tried searching but couldn't find what i wanted. if anyone has any info or a thread explaining how to check this that would be great. i am no expert and may not have the right tools anyway so i might need to take it to a shop. the flange shouldn't just loosed should it? i haven't removed it ever and to loosen the steak would have to be removed or taken out wouldn't it. any wisdom would be appreciated as i want to fix it before i wear my pinion out (if it's not too late already).
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- #29
vibration gone, new problem
i took the rear drive shaft off today and looked at the pinion flange and nut. i now see what staking is. i was thinking of a crown nut (that's what my 40 has there i believe) when i was saying the stake would have to break to let the nut loosen. well it is staked and unmoved from the notch. the flange is loose and the pinion moved laterally a little too. can any one tell me what this might mean. i'm a total novice with rear ends and pinions so i assume the safest fix is by a shop that knows what they are doing. id love to try it but don't have my garage and tools where i'm living for now. if there is no growl/hum while i'm driving does that mean that my ring and pinion gears may still be ok despite the loose pinion or will it only make noise if under load (ie with the drive shaft on)? the good news is my vibration is gone and i think i know where it's coming from!!!
i took the rear drive shaft off today and looked at the pinion flange and nut. i now see what staking is. i was thinking of a crown nut (that's what my 40 has there i believe) when i was saying the stake would have to break to let the nut loosen. well it is staked and unmoved from the notch. the flange is loose and the pinion moved laterally a little too. can any one tell me what this might mean. i'm a total novice with rear ends and pinions so i assume the safest fix is by a shop that knows what they are doing. id love to try it but don't have my garage and tools where i'm living for now. if there is no growl/hum while i'm driving does that mean that my ring and pinion gears may still be ok despite the loose pinion or will it only make noise if under load (ie with the drive shaft on)? the good news is my vibration is gone and i think i know where it's coming from!!!
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- #30
anyone any advice?
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- #31
I thought I should update this post to give some closure. I have written about the vibration problem in "loose pinion flange". what happened was my pinion was shot so I got a drop in diff (with an arb I might've as cruiser outfitters built if for the same price as an open diff here in Canada). anyway still had a vibration so balanced the drive shaft and voila done. I guess the lift extended the slip joint just enough to throw it out of balance. otherwise I don't know why it came on as suddenly and the lift went on but it's now better.
- Thread starter
- #32
well nothing new about the lift this time as the title suggests but I wanted to post up a picture of the bumper I'm touching up for the 62. it's one a friend made and now has no use for it. it's got two side pieces that protect the quarter panels too they are in primer right now.
it's up side down being painted. I'll of course post when I get it on the truck
it's up side down being painted. I'll of course post when I get it on the truck
- Thread starter
- #33
just went to cut a hole in it so i can mount the trailer light plug and burned my drill out. doh!! i guess the good news is i get to buy a new better drill.
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- #34
and yes I know my work bench is a mess. I can only do one thing at a time
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- #35
well im back at fine tuning things and doing some needed maintenance before winter. its turning into a big job. i am trying to fix my spring clunk. i thought it might be the sleeves (OME dakkar) that were sliding but it actually turned out to be the springs sliding over the bushings because they were not a snug fit between the hanger. i made some "washers" out of 1/8 inch steel and slid them in to fill the gap so the bushing cant slide out of the spring sleeve. i'll post some pictures of what i'm talking about when i get them loaded up. we'll see if it fixes the problem. i also changed my 3 degree caster shim to 4 degrees because i still have a little annoying drive line vibration i want to try to fix and then i can put the three degree ones up front. that's what the alignment shop said i was out by anyway up front. while that was all off i put the proper shock bushings in because the ones that came with my shocks were the wrong size and i kinda wrecked them making them fit. now that's all back together and i have my rear axle apart to do bearings. i sure wish i had just done them while i was doing the rear end. while im there i figured its time to change the rear brake liners. I've had them sitting on my bench for almost a year so i better get them in. the old ones are really thin. so thats where i am right now and have a sore eye i'm annoyed with. taking the brake liners off i had one of the little twist washers that compress the spring (no idea what they are called) that holds the liner in place pop off and smoked me right in the eye. stupid move. because of that I'm done for the night. i still have to put it all back together and then put some of those "washers" in the front springs. after that i have to fix my heater cable which is stuck (the valve moves fine so i think its the other cable). lastly i want to hook up my air compressor. it's all plumbed from my locker and the pump is mounted. i just need to wire it up and mount the switches. i have the next two days dedicated to the truck but i still don't know if i'll get it all done. it's a lot of work when doing it single handed (friends are all at work). i sure love working on this thing but the little things can sure add up if neglected. one thing i've learned is that i love air tools. i just bought a set and this is the first job i've used them on. sure saves a lot of busted knuckles and sore hands!!!
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- #36
ahhh crap
just got the brakes put together, bearings and seals in, dif cover and axle housing cleaned up and short side shat in. went to put in the long side and noticed this...
i really don't want to put in a bad shaft after all the work i just did. i don't seem to have a wrecker with any landcruisers around so i'm not sure where to get a new one. it's a 89 FJ62 but will any long side 60 series axle shaft work?
now i'm kinda stuck unless someone around saskatoon sk has an extra one for sale!! (hopeful )
just got the brakes put together, bearings and seals in, dif cover and axle housing cleaned up and short side shat in. went to put in the long side and noticed this...
i really don't want to put in a bad shaft after all the work i just did. i don't seem to have a wrecker with any landcruisers around so i'm not sure where to get a new one. it's a 89 FJ62 but will any long side 60 series axle shaft work?
now i'm kinda stuck unless someone around saskatoon sk has an extra one for sale!! (hopeful
)
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- #38
got one from 4wheel auto coming for tuesday. in the mean time i'll get some other stuff done. i found out the for some reason the control wire from the heater control was bent and that's why it wouldn't move all the way through the full normal range. straightened out the wire and now they work perfectly. no idea why that happened but thankfully as easy fix. should also have the ARB compressor and switches all hooked up. just to be sure on the wiring diagram switch one goes to the locker and the compressor switch goes to the isolation switch wires right?
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- #39
here's the pump mounted and wired up. i have the pump up kit for it to which should be a nice addition.
this is the switch set up in the dash. some mild trimming was needed to get them to fit.
these parts came with the pump up kit. what are they for and do i need to leave them on the quick coupler?
this is the switch set up in the dash. some mild trimming was needed to get them to fit.
these parts came with the pump up kit. what are they for and do i need to leave them on the quick coupler?
- Thread starter
- #40
here is a picture of the "washers" i made to fill the gap in the spring perch. this will hopefully stop the bushing from sliding out of the sleeve therefore allowing the spring end to slide back and forth over the bushings (there would be a small gap between the bushings in the sleeve) causing a clunk every time it slips. make sense?
