Build fj62 gets a lift

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a little bumper bling showed up today (hawse). I plan on a winch with synthetic rope hopefully before winter arrives.
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I reckon the wider placed the spots/floods the better.
 
Also more info on your headlights please, what are they, where from and how are they wired up
 
they are dapper lighting HID low beams. i have a thread on them.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dapper-lighting-hids-for-a-62.793899/

to be honest though a bunch of that thread is figuring out some wiring issues i had. i have been testing them i little and have been mostly happy with them. i still have some tinkering to do but up here in Canada the days are really long and i don't need headlights much. its not dark here until around 11:00 right now. as the days get shorter i'll play with them a little more. i have an IOF wiring harness that they don't really work with as they are a two wire set up so they go off when the high beams come on unless you add a third wire that keeps power to them when the highs come on which is what i did. the high beam indicator doesn't work this way which i don't like. they did come with their own wiring harness but i haven't played with it yet. for the price they are a pretty good light but not sure they offer much more light than my hellas would. they also don't1 make a high beam kit yet but you could probably uses these as high beams and just aim them but the beam pattern probably wouldn't work well. they look cool and would look cooler if they were beside HID high beams.
 
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thanks. I've actually sent him across a water crossing before me as a depth probe. he worked pretty good for that. I know if he won't cross that it's getting deep. he'll stop and come back before he attempts to swim. he sinks and knows it!!
 
just got my seat brackets back from powder coating. these are some of torfab's last ones. they are nice. the coating came out real nice too. I get my bmw seats back tomorrow. I took them in to get seat heaters installed. they are grey leather which took some searching to find but had no heaters. I had them sent out from Alberta to here. the guy who sold them to me said they were heated and power but I don't think he knew what he was talking about. he still gave me a good deal on them so I don't feel burned. good thing it's summer and I had time to get the heaters in before my behind suffers another cold winter of driving. now I'll have a toasty:moon: on my way to work this winter!

here's the brackets
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franklin40 said:
the two bumpers and the palate that was made to ship them all weighed in at about 350 lbs. the bunpers are quite a bit heavier than stock but will hold up to a lot more than the stock ones. they are kind of flimsy in my opinion. KruiserK post some pictures when you get yours all together. i'd love to see it
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Did Toyota design the stock bumpers to take the force of the "hit" in a collision? IE. to avoid the frame being bent. Does this change the dynamics of an impact when a big huge steel bumper is installed?

Would love to hear from the engineers on this. Sorry for the hijack.

PS I have a big huge steel bumper on mine too...
 
yeah i don't know for sure. i think it'll take a pretty hard hit to bend the frame on these trucks. that hard of a hit on the stock bumper would cause a lot more body damage and either way i think the truck will be in rough shape. i might not be in too good of shape with that kind of hit either as the driver.
 
my brakes have been sucking lately so I took the 62 into a brake shop to have it looked at. my rear shoes are out of round and my disks are a little warped. no biggie we can fix that. while they had the rear brakes apart though he noticed my rear axle seals are leaking. I just did bearings and new seals this past winter and used parts from cruiser outfitters so I know they are quality seals etc. my air locker is also spewing diff oil out my compressor. I haven't checked the diff breather but had planned on running a line to the engine compartment to get them really high up. I neglected them because I knew the job was coming up. I assume it's plugged causing these symptoms but now that the rear seals have leaked does that mean I need to replace them again or if I fix my breather and the leak goes away can I leave it alone? the rear bearings get lubed by the diff oil right? it won't have damaged the bearings? thanks for any advice
 
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breather was plugged. talked to the shop and they think we should just clean things up and shave the glazing off the shoes and see if the seals still leak. if no leak we'll machine rotors and drums and replace shoes. if it leaks I'll have to replace it again before putting new brake parts in so I don't just ruin new stuff with an ongoing leak. I also have a slow leak from a front brake line. it's from man-a-fre and is one of their braided lines. it's only two years old but already needs replacing. that sucks but oh well. hopefully the seals are still good and I just need a few simple parts and adjustments. seals are not the biggest job but I dont have time to have it down for a long time and it'll cost $$$ to get a shop to do it.
 
got my bumper latch on. the last one just wasn't staying latched due to the direction of pull so I put this one on. it's stainless steel too so I don't have to paint it. I had to weld my previous holes though as the bolt pattern was a little different. took a hole evening to do a job that should have taken an hour to do. live and learn. I guess that's he beauty of these trucks. try something and if you don't like it change it!!
 
I'm pretty sure once your breather is "breathing", you won't have seal issues. The O rings on the ARB's do need servicing occasionally, but I bet that too will be better
 
brake shoes deglazed drums turned rotors turned and brake hose replaced. system bled. brakes work great again. now just have to watch to see if that rear seal leaks. if it does I'll have to replace it I guess. if that happens I might have to put on one of those pretty nitro gear diff covers!!
 
so far so good with the brakes. they work smoothly and actuall stop when I hammer on them. now the next question I have is about a howl I have. as hard as it is to diagnose it based on a description maybe someone can shed some light on it. I have a howl that seems to be coming from midship and gets higher pitched as I speed up. it doesn't change with shifting gears but does to away completely when I am rolling in neutral. it doesn't change with braking and there's no vibration associated with it. it sounds like gear noise but is different than when my pinion bearing went. does this sound like tranny noise? or could it be transfer case? both axles fully rebuilt from u joints back (using toyota u joints and good quality bearings). there's no abnormal clunks with shifting and my fluid levels are correct. it's the a440 and yes I have an extra tranny cooler on it. no apparent leaks and it shifts smoothly. any ideas of how to narrow it down more would be helpful. it has 450 000 Km on it so maybe its time is just up but I don't think so quite yet!!
 
got a little more main tangency done today. my egr valve was apparently bad so I swapped it out. I think it was probably ok but the gasket was all dried, torn and I expect leaking. I think I probably had a vacuum leak and not a bad valve. I'll see when I drive it next. it was running a little rough and was idling fast. cross fingers it's fixed. I also finally got around to extending my diff breathers into the engine compartment. had just driven it and despite the brake shop saying they got the breathers working again when I took the lines off they both vented some pressure. unfortunately my rear drums are covered in oil again so my rear seal isn't working. now that the lines are run properly I'll clean them up again and watch. if they still leak I'll redo my axle seal... which I really don't want to do:confused:
 
while I have some time off I'm trying to get my new bmw seats installed. wiring them will be simple as it is just one red one brown for power. I had aftermarket seat heaters installed so that's going to take a little more wiring. I was thinking of running them on their own circuit with an in line fuse instead of splicing into other wires. my fuse panel is full so there are no open spots from what I remember. in any case I have a bunch of unsightly wires connected to my battery for various other accessories and was wondering if anyone had any experience or suggestions on a type of power distribution bar/junction box to clean things up in my engine compartment.
 
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