Cuz the FJ60 FL is used in other cruisers too. The FJ62 FL may be specific to that model... smaller run.
FJ62 Fusible link wire gauges
- Thread starter Coolerman
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Cuz the FJ60 FL is used in other cruisers too. The FJ62 FL may be specific to that model... smaller run.
Are you officially selling these now? @Coolerman
Wow! you would make a good PR man!
Awesome write-up and photos. Your help with this was the only way it got done!
Guys I'm working on making this a viable product. Right now I am swamped with making Fog Light harnesses and my day job... Keep checking my Web site. ASAP I will post fusible links for the FJ60 and FJ62...
Do you have any 62 fusible link kits available?Wow! you would make a good PR man!
Awesome write-up and photos. Your help with this was the only way it got done!
Guys I'm working on making this a viable product. Right now I am swamped with making Fog Light harnesses and my day job... Keep checking my Web site. ASAP I will post fusible links for the FJ60 and FJ62...
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
I recently had my fusible links restored by @Coolerman . I sent him my fusible link and he mailed it back with new wires and terminals. Luckily the plastic connectors were in good shape so he could reuse them. He did a fantastic job, top quality work.
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Thanks man, I have a 62 does he do them as well?I recently had my fusible links restored by @Coolerman . I sent him my fusible link and he mailed it back with new wires and terminals. Luckily the plastic connectors were in good shape so he could reuse them. He did a fantastic job, top quality work.
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red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Yeah, mine is for a FJ62. I suggest sending him a note to schedule a time to get yours fixed. I believe he is taking a break from new work at the moment.
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will do
Super interested in @Coolerman magic. My FLs are in such poor shape that I don't know if restoring them is worth it; waiting patiently for a brand new set like @jmstu76 The results look great.
Are the plastic connectors available for the ends of the fusible links or long term should I look into picking up a weather pack kit and crimper?
With other parts like the efi relay nla I'm leaning toward going this way
How to Assemble Weather Pack Connectors
With other parts like the efi relay nla I'm leaning toward going this way
How to Assemble Weather Pack Connectors
I contacted @Coolerman, but it seems like he is swamped helping others and doing his regular job, so I reached out to urban land cruisers and they quoted me 75 + s/h for a replacement kit. I'm a little nervous because I don't know what they look like. I am confused about one thing on my 62 there are three connectors at the terminal. one large fusible link with 3 wires, one small fusible link with one wire and a third wire with a square on it. What is the square and what does this control?
In the photo I saw, the urban landcruisers replacement appears to use the same gauge wire for all the fusible links. I emailed asking the question but didnt get a reply. I found fusible link wire the correct gauge on amazon and made a repair to get back on the road but a better long term fix is still on my list since the plastic connectors look pretty toasty
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Bump for coolerman. I'll buy a set when this is an ongoing project. I can even send an old set if needed to be restored with new wires and connectors.
Here is the link that I got from Urban LC www.ebay.com/itm/182055622812 doesn't look as good as @Coolerman and pretty pricey
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Thanks for doing this Coolerman.
What is that black post and what is its purpose?
I had to replace my rotting FLs a few months back, but I went further and redesigned them. I'm not fond of the big lump of connectors Toyota hung off the battery post.
I bought a few feet of FL wire based on sizes posted earlier in this thread and fab'd up a bunch of these:
I color-coded their capacity with the shrink tube and added the fiberglass sleeve on the later ones. They make for a much more minimal install than stock:
It helps to have a double-bolt post clamp: one for the main cable and the other for the FLs.
The original fusible link assembly has to be replaced (or bench-repaired) if any 1 of 5 blows. It's convenient to have one connector, but also a design flaw. Mine are separate and in a run of wire loom. It's much easier to tuck it out of the way, and, of one of them blows, I can field-replace just that one with the few spares I store in the fuse box.
Total materials: about $4 per link between the crimp connectors, shrink tube, and FL wire.
I bought a few feet of FL wire based on sizes posted earlier in this thread and fab'd up a bunch of these:
I color-coded their capacity with the shrink tube and added the fiberglass sleeve on the later ones. They make for a much more minimal install than stock:
It helps to have a double-bolt post clamp: one for the main cable and the other for the FLs.
The original fusible link assembly has to be replaced (or bench-repaired) if any 1 of 5 blows. It's convenient to have one connector, but also a design flaw. Mine are separate and in a run of wire loom. It's much easier to tuck it out of the way, and, of one of them blows, I can field-replace just that one with the few spares I store in the fuse box.
Total materials: about $4 per link between the crimp connectors, shrink tube, and FL wire.
There's also some neat alternatives to FLs that I discovered after I made mine:
Blue Sea Systems makes this battery post-mount fuse box (above). Unfortunately, it only holds 4 circuits, so one of them will have to get doubled up. There's a bit of noodling around to be done with electrical math to figure out the right fuses to get, but it's a clean install.
Even cleaner is one of these. Blue Sea makes them in 6 and 12 circuit versions, with either a common hot bus or separate feeds. I used the 5028 for my upgraded headlight circuit, but you just as easily use it in place of fusible links. Hint: when working on your truck's electrical system, visit a marine supply store - they have MUCH better goodies than auto parts stores.
Blue Sea Systems makes this battery post-mount fuse box (above). Unfortunately, it only holds 4 circuits, so one of them will have to get doubled up. There's a bit of noodling around to be done with electrical math to figure out the right fuses to get, but it's a clean install.
Even cleaner is one of these. Blue Sea makes them in 6 and 12 circuit versions, with either a common hot bus or separate feeds. I used the 5028 for my upgraded headlight circuit, but you just as easily use it in place of fusible links. Hint: when working on your truck's electrical system, visit a marine supply store - they have MUCH better goodies than auto parts stores.
I have a 62 and this is what it currently looks like the top red wire is for my starter because I was having some power drop. There is the one large fl with three wires coming off then a smaller one with the one red wire. There is the lone black fl that is connected to a corroded black square. With your design is it safe cut the wires and connect them with those butt connectors. Also the black wire isn't connected with a grey housing like the other two, how do you connect this one? Last question, what do these wires control?
Why did you use the fl block instead of just connecting the wires together with a butt connector?
I like to avoid using butt connectors when I can. They're only as reliable as your crimping ability, they're ugly, and the insulated ones do not allow you see the quality of your joint. If you have a matched crimper for your connectors, they can work pretty well, but many people just assume they can mash them with pliers.
The other issue with butt connectors is that (if used properly) they're not undo-able. A fusible link is a sacrificial portion of your circuit. It's designed to fail when something goes wrong. Would you solder in a fuse? This is why the Toyota FL assembly uses a combination of screw posts and snap connectors. Ideally, you should be able to field-replace it.
The other issue with butt connectors is that (if used properly) they're not undo-able. A fusible link is a sacrificial portion of your circuit. It's designed to fail when something goes wrong. Would you solder in a fuse? This is why the Toyota FL assembly uses a combination of screw posts and snap connectors. Ideally, you should be able to field-replace it.
Yeah, that's a bit of a mess. Your FL looks like it's ready for replacement, too. That hot post should really be covered so no metal is exposed, but you can't with that pile of wiring. If you do a broader search here for "fusible links," you'll see some good solutions other 'Mudders have devised over the years.
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