FJ62 Fusible link wire gauges

[tj62]

I like to avoid using butt connectors when I can. They're only as reliable as your crimping ability, they're ugly, and the insulated ones do not allow you see the quality of your joint. If you have a matched crimper for your connectors, they can work pretty well, but many people just assume they can mash them with pliers.

The other issue with butt connectors is that (if used properly) they're not undo-able. A fusible link is a sacrificial portion of your circuit. It's designed to fail when something goes wrong. Would you solder in a fuse? This is why the Toyota FL assembly uses a combination of screw posts and snap connectors. Ideally, you should be able to field-replace it.

Yeah, that's a bit of a mess. Your FL looks like it's ready for replacement, too. That hot post should really be covered so no metal is exposed, but you can't with that pile of wiring. If you do a broader search here for "fusible links," you'll see some good solutions other 'Mudders have devised over the years.

Any idea of the fl sizes are for each of mine?

 

[tj62]

I like to avoid using butt connectors when I can. They're only as reliable as your crimping ability, they're ugly, and the insulated ones do not allow you see the quality of your joint. If you have a matched crimper for your connectors, they can work pretty well, but many people just assume they can mash them with pliers.

The other issue with butt connectors is that (if used properly) they're not undo-able. A fusible link is a sacrificial portion of your circuit. It's designed to fail when something goes wrong. Would you solder in a fuse? This is why the Toyota FL assembly uses a combination of screw posts and snap connectors. Ideally, you should be able to field-replace it.

Yeah, that's a bit of a mess. Your FL looks like it's ready for replacement, too. That hot post should really be covered so no metal is exposed, but you can't with that pile of wiring. If you do a broader search here for "fusible links," you'll see some good solutions other 'Mudders have devised over the years.

Do you know what size fl wires for the green, black, and red wires I have above?

 

[daytonadogie]

Thanks Super77. Clean and simple!

 

[Super77]

Do you know what size fl wires for the green, black, and red wires I have above?

Read the beginning of the thread.

 

[tj62]

Read the beginning of the thread.

At the beginning of the thread they talk about fj60 which is different than the 62 because of the efi. What I have so far is that the 3 green wires are .5 mm = 20 ga fl, the red wire is .85mm = 18 ga fl, and the black is 1.25mm = 16 ga fl. Does that seem correct?

 

[Super77]

At the beginning of the thread they talk about fj60 which is different than the 62 because of the efi. What I have so far is that the 3 green wires are .5 mm = 20 ga fl, the red wire is .85mm = 18 ga fl, and the black is 1.25mm = 16 ga fl. Does that seem correct?

I recall that I bought those 3 gauges. Logic would suggest that the fattest FL gets matched to the fattest wire, etc. Perhaps someone here can chime in, or if you have a caliper available, you can measure the diameter of your wire to be double-sure.

If you're doing any customization, remember the basic rule of fuses, breakers, and FLs: they are there to protect the wiring, not the component to which they are wired. In other words, put the sacrificial link as close as possible to the source so you don't have a long run of potentially overheating wire running through stuff that can burn. That's why the stock FLs hang off the battery post. If you're going to locate them remotely, run as short, thick, and isolated a wire as practical between the battery and the links.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Great thread. Commenting to follow. @tj62, mine fj60 isn't as bad but its pretty gnarly too. Fellow member gave me reason to upgrade terminals to the mil spec ones when he broke one of the ears off my positive the other day. $30 for the whole set off Amazon. @Coolerman, love the upgrades on the FL, mine are in decent shape but some of the wires are broken clean through. Seemingly truck is running but maybe she'd run better if they were copmplete connections.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Coolerman I question my fusible link as noted a similar mess in other pixs here on this thread. At times I wonder what gremlins I have under my hood that somehow manage to keep my truck running when it seems that it should not be... I'd like to rewire/rebuild my links if able. It does appear that all is connected at this time tho in a jimmy'd sort of way. Inside the green and white casing I presume the wires are soldered together? Which to which exactly... I have read thro the thread but it gets a tad jumbled person to person. I appreciate your assistance as it appears you have fiddled with these quite a lot in the last year or so. My chicken scratch drawing added as well. I understand best when I can see it that way.

 

[Coolerman]

Inside the white connector, on the battery side, the two green, and one red fusible links are all connected together. I am not sure but I would bet they are crimped together not soldered.

If you are willing to send me the white connector connected to the battery, and the green fusible link connector that plugs into it, I can rebuild it for you as long as it's not melted internally. I can also make up a "repair section" for the cut white wire. See Pic.
You would have to disassemble the green connector on the harness side, insert the white wire through the rubber end cap, push the terminal into the connector, reinstall the rubber cap then solder or crimp the new white wire coming out of the green connector to the harness white wire. You would then be back to OEM with everything new. Figure $50.00 including shipping to rebuild everything and make the repair section. If any of the connectors are melted then I would add a bit for the connectors, but they look like they are OK and the truck DOES run!

 

[Coolerman]

Send to:
Mark Baker
1335 Frog Branch Rd.
Paint Lick, KY 40461

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Inside the white connector, on the battery side, the two green, and one red fusible links are all connected together. I am not sure but I would bet they are crimped together not soldered.

If you are willing to send me the white connector connected to the battery, and the green fusible link connector that plugs into it, I can rebuild it for you as long as it's not melted internally. I can also make up a "repair section" for the cut white wire. See Pic.
You would have to disassemble the green connector on the harness side, insert the white wire through the rubber end cap, push the terminal into the connector, reinstall the rubber cap then solder or crimp the new white wire coming out of the green connector to the harness white wire. You would then be back to OEM with everything new. Figure $50.00 including shipping to rebuild everything and make the repair section. If any of the connectors are melted then I would add a bit for the connectors, but they look like they are OK and the truck DOES run!

View attachment 1282849

Thanks Mark! That is pretty much what I was seeking for info. And yes, I realized after my email that they aren't soldered but crimped inside those connectors as I finally took the thing off the truck and really looked at it. I mentioned on either this thread or another that I was able to (I think) find one via my local Toyota. Its in and I'm going to go put my eyes on it tomorrow. Guy was nice enough to not charge me until I am feel certain its correct. But I realize I will need to crimp on a new piece of white wire and a spade (I believe) to go into the female (or male, can't recall now w/o having it in front of me) end of that green section. Yea even with all that oddness it does run. I am having some lights issue now but I feel that is my tail light relay which I have yet to find in the rear driver side quarter panel.

I'd really appreciate it if you could tell me the gauge of the white alt wire that I need to fix?

 

[Coolerman]

Alternator wire is 10 ga. I carry the white 10ga and white/blue 10ga if you can't find it local.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Alternator wire is 10 ga. I carry the white 10ga and white/blue 10ga if you can't find it local.

Thanks, looks like Advance Auto has it in stock. Will see later today.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Coolerman I actually reused the same ring terminal for my fusible link wiring as I was unable to find the correct length. So far so good. I was going to redo the ring terminal to the alt but after looking at it I knew I did not have the size handy and having just stood at Napa for too long staring at the options they had I held off. Am now finally remembering to ask you.... Do you know what size ring terminal that one is and it length? (it has the smaller white wire and the larger 10mm wire crimped together to it). Maybe you simply sell them as well as the barrel terminals?

 

[barefoot]

Do these steps on the Alt white wire and then on the yellow EFI wire and you are starting to look good. Don't forget the new post for the Alt wire from BENO. YEAH ONUR!!!View attachment 1047165

What is the function of this alt wire post?

Is it just a junction between the white wire and its fusible link that happens to clamp onto the +12V fees from the alt?

OR

Does it tie the two together electrically?

 

[shane738]

Do these steps on the Alt white wire and then on the yellow EFI wire and you are starting to look good. Don't forget the new post for the Alt wire from BENO. YEAH ONUR!!!View attachment 1047165

View attachment 1047166

In the end, you get to open your hood with pride because this is what your battery connections look like now

View attachment 1047167

I give Coolerman serious props. He did an outstanding job on a project many people wanted nothing to do with. He gave me plenty of length on the FL to connect directly to the stock wiring harness without any cobbled connectors on my part. It is my understanding that Coolerman and I worked together on this prototype and if it went well, we may be offering this to the other FJ62 pilots in the same situation as I had. Feel free to look high and low for a better product (because I did) and no one would step up to help, either on Mud or the local Toyota Gurus in my neighborhood.

This is my report and I am one happy cruiser guy.

@Coolerman this is exactly what I’m chasing for my alternator fusible link