- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks Simcoe!! I think your absolutely right. I’ll check my manifold
FJ62: 3FE Exhaust Manifold Leak Advice (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter thecadefire
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- Thread starter
- #22
He’s right, they were stuck in the manifold lol. Time to remove the old ones and put in the new ones
- Thread starter
- #23
Well I hate to say it but I still have this ridiculously loud ticking sound still coming from my engine. I have no clue what it is. I really don't want to have to take everything off again. Ill try and do some tests tomorrow and try to pinpoint the sound. Dealership said its not the valves, so idk what it is...
- Thread starter
- #24
Do you have a "Ticking noise" at idle in your FJ62
This may be a dumb question but the ticking noise bothers me. I think it's my fuel injectors but I can't tell. Any thoughts? Thanks
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #25
So quick update and some tips from this gasket ordeal 
:
I also replaced the donut gaskets (2) that are located between the manifold and down pipe when I did the manifold gasket. The gaskets between the manifold and the down pipe are kind of a paper and metal material. When I initially started the car after everything assembled I noticed some smoking coming from between the manifold and down pipe(likely the gasket baking or just conditioning to the heat). So I let it run for a bit (about 5 min) letting them smoke and then re tightened the down pipe nuts. Then the exhaust leak sound seemed to go away. YAY!!
There is still a slight sewing machine tick coming from my engine but I think it’s just the valves. From everything I’ve read they tick because we have solid lifters? Overall I would say this manifold gasket change and the down pipe donut gaskets were needed and fixed the loud tick I had.
Another tip is with the injectors. I had mine rebuilt and notice my rig starts up better and seems to run much smoother. As far as from a performance standpoint I don’t know but will update. But I do notice smoother acceleration and idle. In the end it cost me 200+$ which is a lot but I’m glad they got done. WitchHunter performance did a great job, and they have a very fast return time (5 days).
When you re install the injectors be very carefull with them. Remember they are a push fit into the fuel rail (lube the O rings with fuel and twist with quarter turns back and forth until they slide into the fuel rail), then you push the fuel rail (with injectors on) onto the lower intake manifold. Make sure you torque the fuel rail bolts to exactly 9 ft lbs(that’s what FSM called for).
: I also replaced the donut gaskets (2) that are located between the manifold and down pipe when I did the manifold gasket. The gaskets between the manifold and the down pipe are kind of a paper and metal material. When I initially started the car after everything assembled I noticed some smoking coming from between the manifold and down pipe(likely the gasket baking or just conditioning to the heat). So I let it run for a bit (about 5 min) letting them smoke and then re tightened the down pipe nuts. Then the exhaust leak sound seemed to go away. YAY!!
There is still a slight sewing machine tick coming from my engine but I think it’s just the valves. From everything I’ve read they tick because we have solid lifters? Overall I would say this manifold gasket change and the down pipe donut gaskets were needed and fixed the loud tick I had.
Another tip is with the injectors. I had mine rebuilt and notice my rig starts up better and seems to run much smoother. As far as from a performance standpoint I don’t know but will update. But I do notice smoother acceleration and idle. In the end it cost me 200+$ which is a lot but I’m glad they got done. WitchHunter performance did a great job, and they have a very fast return time (5 days).
When you re install the injectors be very carefull with them. Remember they are a push fit into the fuel rail (lube the O rings with fuel and twist with quarter turns back and forth until they slide into the fuel rail), then you push the fuel rail (with injectors on) onto the lower intake manifold. Make sure you torque the fuel rail bolts to exactly 9 ft lbs(that’s what FSM called for).
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
I had read this thread some time back and it gave me the confidence to do my exhaust/intake gasketSo quick update and some tips from this gasket ordeal
I also replaced the donut gaskets (2) that are located between the manifold and down pipe when I did the manifold gasket. The gaskets between the manifold and the down pipe are kind of a paper and metal material. When I initially started the car after everything assembled I noticed some smoking coming from between the manifold and down pipe(likely the gasket baking or just conditioning to the heat). So I let it run for a bit (about 5 min) letting them smoke and then re tightened the down pipe nuts. Then the exhaust leak sound seemed to go away. YAY!!
There is still a slight sewing machine tick coming from my engine but I think it’s just the valves. From everything I’ve read they tick because we have solid lifters? Overall I would say this manifold gasket change and the down pipe donut gaskets were needed and fixed the loud tick I had.
Another tip is with the injectors. I had mine rebuilt and notice my rig starts up better and seems to run much smoother. As far as from a performance standpoint I don’t know but will update. But I do notice smoother acceleration and idle. In the end it cost me 200+$ which is a lot but I’m glad they got done. WitchHunter performance did a great job, and they have a very fast return time (5 days).
When you re install the injectors be very carefull with them. Remember they are a push fit into the fuel rail (lube the O rings with fuel and twist with quarter turns back and forth until they slide into the fuel rail), then you push the fuel rail (with injectors on) onto the lower intake manifold. Make sure you torque the fuel rail bolts to exactly 9 ft lbs(that’s what FSM called for).
I wish I had done like you did and put the bolts in labeled glad bags.
With three distinct parts of this job, EFI chamber, Fuel Rail removal, maniffold and heat shield removal......I didn‘t organize my bolt piles as well as I could have.
Just waiting for the injectors to come back so I can reassemble.
AND THANK YOU FOR THE INJECTOR/FUEL RAIL REASSEMBLY TIPS! I was wondering how to approach that.
- Thread starter
- #27
Looks great! Glad you got it all disassembled! If you have any trouble on the reinstall let me know!
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Can you quality check me on this.
The FSM shows an ear that indicates the end of the gasket that goes to the front of the engine.
My OEM gasket doesnt have an ear but does have a squared off end which I assume indicates the front of the engine.
Any advice appreciated.
The FSM shows an ear that indicates the end of the gasket that goes to the front of the engine.
My OEM gasket doesnt have an ear but does have a squared off end which I assume indicates the front of the engine.
Any advice appreciated.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Let me post these pics. Maybe will help, maybe not. Took this off my 60 and its non OEM gasket that I ‘think’ I got from CruiserOutfitters. It is angled at both ends and the left end is marked Front. I do have 2 other OEM gaskets and they both have the little ear at the front like you said.
Now you may very well be right in thinking the squared end goes to the front...but what tells you that? Have no idea myself but at least on this one the angled end does go to the front.
Not much help but at least a bit of data.
Now you may very well be right in thinking the squared end goes to the front...but what tells you that? Have no idea myself but at least on this one the angled end does go to the front.
Not much help but at least a bit of data.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Thank you for that.
I think the lip showing confirms my thinking. I'll keep the lip showing which means square end must be the front end of the gasket.
My bet is that sometime along the way they changed the design. It's likely mine was for a 3Fe 80's series, at least that's the best idea I've come up with.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
This is the lip
I think I’m safe since mine has the lip on the outside (toward manifold and exhaust pipes) when I orient the squared end toward the front of the engine
Thank you!
I think I’m safe since mine has the lip on the outside (toward manifold and exhaust pipes) when I orient the squared end toward the front of the engine
Thank you!
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
I think I figured it out.
The 17172-61060 I'm using is for 3F 80 series and fits 60 series that doesn't have the ear but used a squared off corner
The 17172-61070 is the part number for 3F 60 series had the ear
The 17172-61060 I'm using is for 3F 80 series and fits 60 series that doesn't have the ear but used a squared off corner
The 17172-61070 is the part number for 3F 60 series had the ear
