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BB's are easy to deal with.
If you look at this picture you can see that there is a tube that runs between two holes. that tube keeps the BB's flowing around the worm shaft. If you take half of the tube off you can feed the BB's into the valve assembly one at a time. You use the hole that is farthest from the splined section and gently twist the steering shaft allowing the BB's to roll around the worm gear till it is almost filled. Then you put a bit of grease in the other tube allong with the rest of the BB'sand slide them together.
It sounds a hell of a lot more complicated than it really is..
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I find a leaky box accepts a long cylindrical plug for a thorough serviceI found this thread looking for details on how to service a leaky box (insert whatever thoughts come to mind here).
Are there any types of grease that are compatible with the new seals, or any I should stay away from?
TIA
The factory tool is conical shaped so you can expand them to fit over whatever shaft/shoulder to get to the groove and then there is another tool that is conical shaped on the inside to shrink/resize the seal into the groove. I found that I can carefully stretch the seal over the shoulder with a fine pick (picks are very helpful with dealing with most kinds of seals so those are good to have) and then I use a redneck resizer. This is not my idea but I used it during my tranny rebuild but simply use a hose clamp and protect the seal with something. I cut up a spray paint cap and used that to protect the seal while I cinched the clamp down to shrink the seal. I am looking at a plastic cup we have in the kitchen I could steal and cut that could also work. It is conical and looks to be very close to the size I would have needed so there are a couple of ways to get it done. If you are a stickler for factory tools they are listed in the FSM.
Adjustment Procedure for the Sector ShaftDrill out both spots with a 7/16" drill and tap them with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap.
Then CLEAN ALL OF THE METAL SHAVINGS OUT!!
Should not be that hard. But if you do not, you will kill the teflon seals in the box and potentialy mar the worm or the housing.
then it is back to reassembly, I typically use some grease or oil on all of the seals during assembly..
Worm drive goes in, Sector shaft (again be aware of the orientation, there is only a certian amoutn of teeth on the worm gear and the sector shaft, they have to mesh properly), top plate, and pittman arm.
All done.
(BTW, if you have the adjustment procedure for the sector shaft I would love to see the text)
You do want to be aware of how far the threaded portion goes into the heel of the steering box, you do not want it to go much farther than the thickness of the box. Or it can potentialy impact the worm drive.
Box tapped and ready for paint.
I typically run a -6An fitting to 1/4" NPT for my outlets. This allows me to easily hook up the hoses at a later time. Currently I just have the ports plugged off.
I'll upload the rest of the pics later. The board is being cranky..
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