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FJ60 hydro assist porting..

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by Mace, May 21, 2007.

  1. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Figured I would outline this here..

    Tapping a FJ60 box for full hydro is not a complicated task.
    Tools needed,
    14mm Socket and ratchet,
    Pittman arm puller (and a big socket or crescent wrench)
    Drill (Drill press makes for straighter holes)
    7/16" Drill bit
    1/4" NPT pipe tap.
    A bit of grease.
    Something to wash ALL of the metal pieces out.

    It is up to you if you want to replace the seals or not. Spector does sell them individualy. Or you can get the kit for something around $120 or so..


    First thing, remove the pittman nut and the pittman arm.
    The nut typically is easy to remove, the arm tends to cause more difficulty..
    I got lucky with a 2 arm puller. Most have had better luck with the Snap on pittman arm puller.
    Basically you put a TON of pressure on the bolt on the puller, then smack the end of the bolt with a hammer. This breaks the tension of the pittman arm and makes it come off a lot easier. Penetrating oil helps quite a bit as well.


    Once the pittman arm is off you can remove the top cover that resides above the sector shaft. Be aware that it will not just "pop" off. It has a O ring that may make it tough. The Sector Shaft is also threaded into the top plate (center adjusting nut) so you need to remove the lock nut and thread the "bolt" back out of the top plate.
    top plate.jpg threaded top.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2007
  2. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    After taking the top plate off you can slide the sector shaft out by pushing from the pittman end up. The sector shaft actually slides towards where the top plate is. Be careful of the orientation of the teeth on the sector shaft. There are certian positins where the teeth can bind during dissassembly..
    pittman shaft.jpg reassembly.jpg
     
  3. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    With the Sector shaft removed you can pull the worm drive.

    You do not have to get into the heart of the worm drive. It does not have to come apart. You just have to pull it from the actual PS box case. 4 bolts on the face and you are done.

    Again, there are seals involved. Be careful when taking things apart.. They might be sticky..
    box partialy put together.jpg worm drive 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2007
  4. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Once you remove the worm drive and the sector shaft all you need to do is clean the tar out of the housing and prep it for drilling/tapping.

    The locations are within the TOYODA text and the heel of the housing itself.
    major parts of the steering box.jpg tap points.jpg
     
  5. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Drill out both spots with a 7/16" drill and tap them with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap.

    Then CLEAN ALL OF THE METAL SHAVINGS OUT!!

    Should not be that hard. But if you do not, you will kill the teflon seals in the box and potentialy mar the worm or the housing.

    then it is back to reassembly, I typically use some grease or oil on all of the seals during assembly..

    Worm drive goes in, Sector shaft (again be aware of the orientation, there is only a certian amoutn of teeth on the worm gear and the sector shaft, they have to mesh properly), top plate, and pittman arm.

    All done.

    (BTW, if you have the adjustment procedure for the sector shaft I would love to see the text)


    You do want to be aware of how far the threaded portion goes into the heel of the steering box, you do not want it to go much farther than the thickness of the box. Or it can potentialy impact the worm drive.

    Box tapped and ready for paint.

    I typically run a -6An fitting to 1/4" NPT for my outlets. This allows me to easily hook up the hoses at a later time. Currently I just have the ports plugged off.


    I'll upload the rest of the pics later. The board is being cranky..
    box partialy put together.jpg reassembly.jpg Tapped Box.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2007
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  6. NocalFJ60

    NocalFJ60

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    Good writeup. Can you explain what hydro assist is? It uses a hydraulic ram on the steering to help with big tires? The stock power steering pump have to be modified too?
     
  7. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Stock PS pump can be modified with the Redneckram.com writeup.

    And yes, basicaly you place a hydraulic ram on the tie rod for assist with bigger tires or to make up the difference from lockers.
     
  8. euclid

    euclid

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    What color are you going to paint it? :D












    Nice writeup, good tech.
     
  9. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Ahh the true tech..

    Hammerite Black ;)


    You could have the box apart, drilled, tapped and back together easily in an hour if you were prepared..
     
  10. euclid

    euclid

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    I was scared to pull mine appart 2 years ago when it needed a rebuild. West Texas rebuilt and drilled and taped mine for $150, not bad.
     
  11. NocalFJ60

    NocalFJ60

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    I have an older box I took apart to play around and all the bb's came rolling out. Have to figure out how to put it back together someday and rebuild it.
     
  12. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    BB's are easy to deal with.

    If you look at this picture you can see that there is a tube that runs between two holes. that tube keeps the BB's flowing around the worm shaft. If you take half of the tube off you can feed the BB's into the valve assembly one at a time. You use the hole that is farthest from the splined section and gently twist the steering shaft allowing the BB's to roll around the worm gear till it is almost filled. Then you put a bit of grease in the other tube allong with the rest of the BB'sand slide them together.

    It sounds a hell of a lot more complicated than it really is..

    [​IMG]
     
  13. brokenparts

    brokenparts

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    Good write up Mace...
     
  14. Winslow

    Winslow

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    I just had Proffitt do mine. So far, so good. He gave me some little caps so I am isolate the ram, should I ever blow a hydrolic line. Speaking of which, I blew the high pressure line, pump to box, the first day on the trail! Marlin was kind enough to give me a ride into town to grab a new hose. The A/C delco pump is metric on the back, so a stockhose from a toyota T100 pick-up worked great! The steering system is only as good as it's weakest link, in this case it was a 10,000lb ram and 39.5" tires vs. a 20 year old Aisin hose. Hose lost.
     
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  15. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    lol.

    Yep, Toy stuff and Sag thread patterns are almost identical. Makes life MUCH easier.

    I ran the blue aeroquip stuff in my 40. Probably gonna do it in the 60 as well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
  16. tclndcrz

    tclndcrz

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    great info!

    this should be in the faq for sure.
     
  17. euclid

    euclid

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    Done. Yall can always PM me to add stuff to the FAQ if you want. I don't always know what the community considers valuable enough for easy FAQ reference.
     
  18. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    You mean I said something that was valuable??

    I am gonna call my wife, she aint gonna believe it :D
     
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  19. euclid

    euclid

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    yep, 1 out of 7344 aint bad!
     
  20. green73

    green73

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    I took mine apart, not paying attention to this thread. BB's went everywhere. Took a few minutes to figure it all out. It all went back together nicely. I just gotta get lines, a inline cooler, and brackets for the ram. Yeah I am going really slowly with this.