FJ60 hydro assist porting.. (2 Viewers)

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HUMPF!?
Im not sure HOW that would be the issue as it is a closed loop system? You would fill and bleed the system which would require more fluid initially, but then it would be at a static volume....Not that Im questioning.
Would it pertain to the heat generated, thus requiring more fluid for cooling?
You would think with the added demand there would be something internal what would not be up to snuff to drive the added demand?


Chicago

The volume of the fluid actually in the system would stay the same, but the rate at which the pump could move it THROUGH the system would need to increase to keep up with the demands put on it. Overall volume throughput would need to change.

As far as something internal not being up to snuff, I'm honestly not sure. It could be a valve in the pump, the pump itself (a certain size impeller can only move so much fluid at a given RPM), or (I doubt this is the case) the pump just isn't strong enough overall to handle the extra demands of a hydroboost and ram assist.
 
The desire for more volume covers a couple of aspects..

The volume of the fluid actually does change. With a single ended ram, you have more fluid pushing one direction than the other (due to the shaft diameter taking up some of the piston space on one side of the piston). Because of the volume "change", a bigger res is nice to keep the pump from running dry.

Also it is easier to keep the fluid cooler if you have more of it.


The vanes can actually provide more fluid than the pump allows as an output. At idle, the flow is reduced, so you can try to turn and end up having the pump not being able to "keep up" with the speed you want to turn. so you feel resistance to the turn. Ease up a bit or turn the wheel slower and that issue is aleviated. A 1.5" ram has a smaller of total fluid volume necessary so the "slow" steering is not as much of an issue.

the stock 60 pump can be modded just like a Sag pump can be modded.

There are multiple sag pumps out there. the biger canned ham style pumps that are so common can also be run with a smaller can attatched to a remote res. Finding one to fit should not be tough at all.

Most of the "slow" issues are only at stoplights or parked. not driving down the road..
 
The desire for more volume covers a couple of aspects..

The volume of the fluid actually does change. With a single ended ram, you have more fluid pushing one direction than the other (due to the shaft diameter taking up some of the piston space on one side of the piston). Because of the volume "change", a bigger res is nice to keep the pump from running dry.

Also it is easier to keep the fluid cooler if you have more of it.


The vanes can actually provide more fluid than the pump allows as an output. At idle, the flow is reduced, so you can try to turn and end up having the pump not being able to "keep up" with the speed you want to turn. so you feel resistance to the turn. Ease up a bit or turn the wheel slower and that issue is aleviated. A 1.5" ram has a smaller of total fluid volume necessary so the "slow" steering is not as much of an issue.

the stock 60 pump can be modded just like a Sag pump can be modded.

There are multiple sag pumps out there. the biger canned ham style pumps that are so common can also be run with a smaller can attatched to a remote res. Finding one to fit should not be tough at all.

Most of the "slow" issues are only at stoplights or parked. not driving down the road..

The 60 pump can be modded, but IIRC it's a different part than the 62 pump, which is what chicago is running.
 
AFAIK they have the same basic modification process..

Very similar to the sag pumps and the mini stuff.
 
As fas as Sag pumps are concerned, the one you want to look for is off of the big block 1 ton dually's from the late 70's to the end of that body style. I have no info that the guts are any better or worse than any other Sag pump out there, what this pump gets you is the remote reservoir bits.
 
The desire for more volume covers a couple of aspects..

The volume of the fluid actually does change. With a single ended ram, you have more fluid pushing one direction than the other (due to the shaft diameter taking up some of the piston space on one side of the piston). Because of the volume "change", a bigger res is nice to keep the pump from running dry.

Also it is easier to keep the fluid cooler if you have more of it.


The vanes can actually provide more fluid than the pump allows as an output. At idle, the flow is reduced, so you can try to turn and end up having the pump not being able to "keep up" with the speed you want to turn. so you feel resistance to the turn. Ease up a bit or turn the wheel slower and that issue is aleviated. A 1.5" ram has a smaller of total fluid volume necessary so the "slow" steering is not as much of an issue.

the stock 60 pump can be modded just like a Sag pump can be modded.

There are multiple sag pumps out there. the biger canned ham style pumps that are so common can also be run with a smaller can attatched to a remote res. Finding one to fit should not be tough at all.

Most of the "slow" issues are only at stoplights or parked. not driving down the road..

Alright...Thanks for the clarification Spook and Mace!
Im an RN by profession, and didnt get too much of the Mech. engineer type stuff in nursing school.:p
So more volume is the ticket basically to make it work the "best" it can with what you have.
Ill try it in the coming months and see how it is.
That is a good tip for making turns slower for the time being.

Thanks gents.

Chicago
 
Have a look at the Sag pump mods. Either WTO or Redneck has a page up on this. Those mods would work on most vane pumps, though the ideal drill sizes may be different.
 
Hey Chicago, when I run out of other welding projects for you....
I have a PSC ram that needs installing on the FJ40. Since the steering is basically the same as your 62 you could work out all the details on my rig rather than go through all the pain and heartache on your own rig. It's the least I can do since we're pals. :D
 
Hey Chicago, when I run out of other welding projects for you....
I have a PSC ram that needs installing on the FJ40. Since the steering is basically the same as your 62 you could work out all the details on my rig rather than go through all the pain and heartache on your own rig. It's the least I can do since we're pals. :D

You know that I hook you up Rusty!
You know what brands of bourbon I hang with too.:D

Hopefully this weekend the kids will be GONE. Ill be on Blotch and will hopefully come home to a QUIET house and my garage back.

BTW...its:

Jack
Knob Creek
Gentlemen Jack

K
 
Well old thread here .. revival.

I'm in the middle or tapping my PS box today .. actually the tap was too easy, just have a deal ( bit PIAT really ) with the teflon seal at the bottom of the box .. ( sector shaft )

any tips here .. ( been hours triying to fit it ! )
 
Walk away for an hr or 24.. It'll go in easily when you are relaxed :)
 
Well old thread here .. revival.

I'm in the middle or tapping my PS box today .. actually the tap was too easy, just have a deal ( bit PIAT really ) with the teflon seal at the bottom of the box .. ( sector shaft )

any tips here .. ( been hours triying to fit it ! )

I actually heated up a pot of dextron III and held the sector shaft with the Teflon ring submersed in it for a while. It worked for me (or it was wishful thinking) but the tip was from a fellow toyota mechanic that had done a few rebuilds and hydro assists.
 
Well it win yesterday .. today I'm leaving right now to my uddys garage and wish me luck with the seal today .. ( will bring my camera ) ..

Was reading on the FSM about squeeze the teflon seal before fit the sector shaft . ?

Anycase I will ( need ) do my best today .. :)

I wass seen the special tool 09631-***20 wats about . .?
 
Just thought I would add my update to this thread. I rebuilt and ported my box last night & it all went smoothly. I found an even cheaper source of the seal kit. I paid $33 shipped from Autozone.com and it has all the needed seals and they appear to be oem in quality.

I used my Gregory's manual as a guide since I couldn't find my FSM. One good tip it had was to bend the teflon sector shaft seal into the shape of a heart and then bend it back into a circle once it is inside the oring. It left a dimple in the seal but the sector shaft installed fine, the steering works great and I have no leaks. I didn't do the valve body since it was not leaking and the manual said not to pull it appart. I probably should have but I needed to get my truck back together to get it smogged today.
 
Awesome thread here. I'm going to attempt this soon. Sixty whats the part number of the kit you ordered?
 
The part # is 8770 and references over to an Edelman kit on rockauto.com

I actually paid $66 for the kit since I left the first one I ordered sitting on the counter in an opened box and my wife threw it out!
 
Thanks!

Rockauto is cheap too. Here is a printscreen.
8770.jpg
 
Just thought I would add my update to this thread. I rebuilt and ported my box last night & it all went smoothly. I found an even cheaper source of the seal kit. I paid $33 shipped from Autozone.com and it has all the needed seals and they appear to be oem in quality.

I used my Gregory's manual as a guide since I couldn't find my FSM. One good tip it had was to bend the teflon sector shaft seal into the shape of a heart and then bend it back into a circle once it is inside the oring. It left a dimple in the seal but the sector shaft installed fine, the steering works great and I have no leaks. I didn't do the valve body since it was not leaking and the manual said not to pull it appart. I probably should have but I needed to get my truck back together to get it smogged today.

Yep, the heart thing seems odd but works great.

And b. I don't believe that your cruiser runs again. No oil screen??

:D
 
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