FJ60 Block Cracked---Now What?

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Apr 17, 2010
I posted earlier about a coolant leak on the side of the block, 1986 FJ60 138,000 miles; thought it might be a head gasket; compression was 153,150.149,155, 150, 158......ok I think.
Found the leak originating from a small crack (1/4 inch or so) about 2 inches above the freeze plug above the EGR cooler. Leaking about a drop a minute.

Now What??
JB Weld?

find another block.
Cast iron shouldn't be welded from what i've heard, but it can be "stitched".

Metal Stitching

Man...........hope you guys are'nt really serious about finding another block.........
It can be repaired, but I dunno if you can do it while the engine is still in the vehicle.

That's why I'd try the JB Weld first and see if it holds.
Stitching properly is pricey the engine needs to be out, everything disassembled and if I recall correctly they heat the entire block up a series of times during the stitching process. At this point find a new (good used) motor it will be cheaper. My .02 :meh:

Oops...just clicked on Matt16's link...thats the process allright.
Where are you located ?
I just went through this whole thing.....

1. Cheapest- pack JB Weld in the crack as they only do about 13psi when engine running. Pack it in good with steel flat blade...then cover on top over wider area. Recommend cleaning block with degreaser or some brake cleaner that evaporates. This trick is holding mine great until I can do the next step.

2. If it is a crack that runs on the side of bloc and is not wrapped around a freeze plug port lip....haha.....then you can get it stitched. very solid repair but not cheap and not to be tried by most amateurs. Someone already posted pics of how it is done.

3. Brazing or heat you cannot safely weld on a cast block...temps get too high.....but brazing or heat welding can be done but still need to take great care of heat tolerances.

4. Replace block for couple hundred dollars and move your stuff over after block has been prepped and redone.

5. Find a rebuild or low mileage 2F to swap out for now and do the block replacement later...or sell old engine parts to someone that needs them.

6. Take opportunity to stick a Mercedes Turbo Diesel or a Cummins Turbo Diesel under the hood....about $6500 and $12500 respectively if you get them done Turn Key at Proffitts Cruisers.

I did the JB Weld which could last for years or short term solution as mine only weeps lightly and never drips.
Then I am sticking a 0 miles block that has been re honed with toyota pistons and stuff...with my carb and other last me a few more years if needed as I save money to do a diesel conversion. I just could not pull the cost of the diesel...even the Mercedes turbo diesel for $6500 turn key at this fresh 2F for now with a piggy bank on my desk that already has $400 in it for a diesel in future. :D :D

Good luck and hope you get it sorted. I found a block you can buy for a decent price near Atlanta if interested. I am in Charleston if you want to talk about some blocks, engines, etc I have found. I would stay away from the block sealer got to follow directions perfectly and still a chance that you might not get it all out when ready to put coolant back in and block a radiator or coolant passage in engine and do more damage.

As light as yours is dripping I am betting a wire brush...some brake cleaner...then a healthy dose of JB Weld will slow if not stop your leak and give you time to think of your next step.

Give me a yell as I still got contacts with block and some other options I found in area.
Thanks Brock! I am both old and new to all of this. Old in the sense that I bought a 1978 FJ40 new in 1978...put 140,000 absolutely "starts every time you turn the key, zero problems" miles on her over 15 years, and for some reason, let it go.
Nostalgia got the better of me, and appreciating the room of the FJ60, I bought a 1986 from Arizona, totally rust free, about as clean as they come......and have put another $3,000.00 in it so far (front axles sealed, new intake/exhaust,oil pan,brakes all around, new upholstery job etc etc) with apparently much more to come.....does it ever end?
...does it ever end?


Low miles, good compression. Try the JB weld. If that doesn't work I would look for a low miles, high compression 2F to drop in. You can pick a good one up for 4-600 and get a few friends to yank the old one out and drop in the new one over a weekend. While you are doing that you will have a great opportunity for some housekeeping also.
Yep....try JB Weld...mine has been holding and will give you time and peace of mind to make a long term decision. I am dropping in another 2F for now and saving for my diesel in couple years with Proffitts. This sealed the deal...

Good luck....
Agree, try the JB Weld first.
Though, Peruvian's right. I've welded cast iron (including several engine blocks). Its just a technique few welders actually do these days. Requires a pre/post heating and high nickel welding rods with high amperage. Its called skill.
I will add that welding will require it to be pulled and cleaned thoroughly. Sounds like its time to go 350.
Years ago I had a mopar 383 crack between two soft plugs, put a couple of tubes of " Alumaseal " in the radiator and it stopped the weeping. Drove it a couple more years before I threw a rod :doh:.
Might be worth a try if you want to get by for a while.
blocks are a dime a dozen, where are you located? I might have a 2F with a burnt exhaust valve and ok compression up for sale cheap soon.
I would replace the block or swap over a V-8.

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