Came across this vid
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FJ40 Frame Rivet Replacement? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JVZii
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fj40ingkc
SILVER Star
Hi @skully3
, looking to see how the rivets worked inside the boxed section of the frame. getting to the areas with bucking tool where out in open is much easier, but trying to see what bucking tool was used to do inside boxed channel areas. looking at taking my frame apart to thoroughly clean and weather/"rustproof". appreciate the advice in advance
, looking to see how the rivets worked inside the boxed section of the frame. getting to the areas with bucking tool where out in open is much easier, but trying to see what bucking tool was used to do inside boxed channel areas. looking at taking my frame apart to thoroughly clean and weather/"rustproof". appreciate the advice in advance
47coeman
Love those 45's
Great vid TNX for sharing.
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Oh my God. Damn a Toyota rivet. They are the hardest things known to man. Someone on the first page saying they were going to remove all the rivets on his Cruiser....
fj40ingkc
SILVER Star
I am looking to learn from someone on this as its my first frame rivet experience. Have you done this before? do you have any suggestions on how to do the boxed in/difficult to get to rivets? or what bucking tool was most useful for the boxed sections? thank yoU!
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I have had to remove plenty but have never reinstalled them.
My favorite way is a carbide bit on an air die grinder.
Grind the head smooth until you can see the outline of the shaft of the rivet.
Then put a air chisel with a pointed bit on the Rivet and bang it through.
Efjayforty
SILVER Star
I replaced several rivets on my 74 frame. It was not too bad.
see: 74 Reassembly
see: 74 Reassembly
For all the people that removed rivets and replaced with bolts, what size bolts did you use, and what grade were they? I have to replace my rear cross member, rear gussets, rear spring gussets, and reinstall my engine mounts. The holes are too big for M8 and a little too small for M10 bolts. Did you drill the hole out and use M10?
My 40 is defiantly not a factory restoration. In areas where I had to remove rivets for repairs and modifications and would be unseen I would use 7/16 grade 8 bolts. Where the rivets would be seen I used 7/16 button head bolts, welded the allen hole closed and filed off any extra weld before installing them. They are a bit bigger than the original rivet head, but to the casual observer it will pass.
Did you have to drill out all of the holes to accept the 7/16" bolts? The major diameter of an M!0 bolt is 0.3937" which is too big for the holes the rivets came out of. 7/16" is 0.4375", which is even bigger.
3/8 - 24 exists, in theory. 3/8 = .375, a tiny bit smaller than M10
Instead of drilling a larger clearance hole, just drill enough so that you can create a tapped hole for a more snug fit?
Instead of drilling a larger clearance hole, just drill enough so that you can create a tapped hole for a more snug fit?
Damnit FJmaine. You got me thinking. So I went out and measured some bolts. They are 3/8" Grade 8 bolts. and the button head bolts (welded to look like rivets) are 3/8" also. I was thinking they were 7/16"..........but rum & cherry Dr Pepper does funny things.
I had to replace all my rear spring hangers and gussets. I used 3/8" grade 8 stuff that I recall. As mentioned, button heads if you want it to look more like a rivet. Very easy, very functional. I see no good reason to go through the trouble of trying to reinstall rivets.
