If the donor engine is in decent shape and you've got all your parts assembled, it shouldn't take more than a weekend to do. Try to make sure you hear new engine run or at least have compression numbers. Avoid replacing a dud with a dud.
Fj40 died while driving
- Thread starter David Hollenback
- Start date
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If the donor engine is in decent shape and you've got all your parts assembled, it shouldn't take more than a weekend to do. Try to make sure you hear new engine run or at least have compression numbers. Avoid replacing a dud with a dud.
I hear you, your situation really sucks. DON'T rush this though. As others have said, find an 80's era FJ60 with a good running motor and a body like the Titanic and swap engines. It's very straightforward if you have access to tools (air impact would help) and a cherry picker type lift to get the engines in/out. You can align your clutch very easily, I even have a tool I'll send you if you really need one.
Go with the newer 2F though as the oiling is far superior to the older F design. Your clutch components, bellhousing and transmission will all bolt up.
If it was me, I could likely get the swap done in a single day assuming I had the right tools to do so and I didn't run into any huge snags. If I was closer, I'd even help. I'm in WA though, sorry
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok you all have again pursuaded me to hold out. I will continue to search for that coveted fj60.
Thanks again for setting me at ease.
Thanks again for setting me at ease.
You are on the right track. Pull your engine now and as has been said, if you get a good running 2f you can be up & running in a weekend.
Line up now what you're going to need...tools, hoist ect. Do whatever is necessary to get a 2f...1 & 1.5 are fine engines but in your circumstances you want a 2f.
Line up now what you're going to need...tools, hoist ect. Do whatever is necessary to get a 2f...1 & 1.5 are fine engines but in your circumstances you want a 2f.
- Thread starter
- #26
guys - I just checked compression and 5 of the 6 cylinders have 125 PSI #2 cylinder is at 100 PSI (this sounds like the one scrapping). Is it safe to say this still has life? Still no oil pumping though.
Was wondering if I did the following to see if I can get oil pumping:
1. Remove oil filter
2. Remove distributor
3. Turn oil pump by drill to see if oil goes to filter housing
4. If no oil I assume the pick up is clogged. iF I clean pick up screen then try it I may get oil.
5. if oil does go through but no oil in valve cover area then it is blocked somewhere through pick up tubes.
6, If I sprayed some carb cleaner to dilute oil would this work?
Hate to get new engine if this one can be saved.
Thoughts?
Was wondering if I did the following to see if I can get oil pumping:
1. Remove oil filter
2. Remove distributor
3. Turn oil pump by drill to see if oil goes to filter housing
4. If no oil I assume the pick up is clogged. iF I clean pick up screen then try it I may get oil.
5. if oil does go through but no oil in valve cover area then it is blocked somewhere through pick up tubes.
6, If I sprayed some carb cleaner to dilute oil would this work?
Hate to get new engine if this one can be saved.
Thoughts?
@David Hollenback
I wouldn't spin the motor until you figure out the oil mystery. Have you pulled the oil drain plug to verify the oil pan was empty?
If the pan did have some oil, Can you measure how much was in it? Post up how much oil was in it, perhaps someone will know the minimum oil level needed for the oil pick up.
I've read that a good way to check for oil pump function is to pull the oil sending unit and spin the oil pump clockwise. No need to pull the filter that I'm aware of. Oil should squirt out the sender hole. I believe your 2F should hold 17 pints of oil(8.5 quarts)
I wouldn't spin the motor until you figure out the oil mystery. Have you pulled the oil drain plug to verify the oil pan was empty?
If the pan did have some oil, Can you measure how much was in it? Post up how much oil was in it, perhaps someone will know the minimum oil level needed for the oil pick up.
I've read that a good way to check for oil pump function is to pull the oil sending unit and spin the oil pump clockwise. No need to pull the filter that I'm aware of. Oil should squirt out the sender hole. I believe your 2F should hold 17 pints of oil(8.5 quarts)
I wouldn't think adding carb cleaner to the oil is a good idea. My belief is that proper oil viscocity important and so far I'm under the assumption no oil was present to be circulated.
I am in church hill, Tn. If I can help in any way please let me know.
- Thread starter
- #32
There was 2.5 qts left after draining pan. No metal was found on plug or oil. AS soon as I as able to free up engine by spraying liquid wrench in spark plug holes and let it sit, I was able to turn over by ignition. This tells me it was not that seized to begin with. I added 8 qts of oil and tried to start and it ran for about 5 seconds but no oil pressure so I turned it off. I can hear it scrapping inside (i was hoping that if I can get some oil in yhere it would stop the scrapping).
I will pull oil sending unit later today and spin it.
Want2wheel - I may look you up soon for assistance if you have time. Hate to put hou through the cold right now as it is sitting outside and it is do it damn cold here.
I will pull oil sending unit later today and spin it.
Want2wheel - I may look you up soon for assistance if you have time. Hate to put hou through the cold right now as it is sitting outside and it is do it damn cold here.
Yea, we left the cold for vacation down south. I am in the middle of a head replacement and a rear disk conversion on my daughter's 78 at the moment.
I would not turn your engine over any more if you hear noise. I bet that you have spun a bearing. If you keep pushing it you may make it worse.
I would not turn your engine over any more if you hear noise. I bet that you have spun a bearing. If you keep pushing it you may make it worse.
Don't keep cranking that engine over. You have a major lubrication problem somewhere and you are likely causing more damage. I suspect that the damage has been done however and is likely irreversible. Even with no issues, those compression #'s are quite a ways out of spec. Compression should be approximately 150 psi across the board and there should not be more than a 14psi difference between any of the cylinders.
It's quite possible that your oil pump has broken/fouled, the intake is completely plugged or you have spun bearings blocking oil flow. Whatever happened, it's bad. The most logical thing to do at this point is pull the engine. Find a replacement 2F. If you really want to know what happened, put your current engine on a large engine stand and start disassembly.
If it were mine, assuming I was planning on keeping it,
I would go ahead and pull the engine and take off the head and oil pan to see what is going on in there.
All options will involve pulling the engine anyway.
That said, it will be harder to store and harder to sell if you decide to let it go.
My guess is it will involve less money & less work to swap in an engine than to try to salvage yours.
Just a guess at some costs if you choose to try to save it.
Full gasket set about $80
Oil Pump $70
Piston ring set $50
Camshaft bearings $30
Crank bearing set $70
Connecting rod bearing set $70
That alone is pushing $400 with no machining work or labor.
Edit: I agree with the below dollar amounts for trying to rebuild.
Didn't want to create the impression that $400 would cover it, just that parts can quickly exceed the cost of a replacement engine.
I would go ahead and pull the engine and take off the head and oil pan to see what is going on in there.
All options will involve pulling the engine anyway.
That said, it will be harder to store and harder to sell if you decide to let it go.
My guess is it will involve less money & less work to swap in an engine than to try to salvage yours.
Just a guess at some costs if you choose to try to save it.
Full gasket set about $80
Oil Pump $70
Piston ring set $50
Camshaft bearings $30
Crank bearing set $70
Connecting rod bearing set $70
That alone is pushing $400 with no machining work or labor.
Edit: I agree with the below dollar amounts for trying to rebuild.
Didn't want to create the impression that $400 would cover it, just that parts can quickly exceed the cost of a replacement engine.
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And that is likely on the super low side. I'd be thinking at least $750-1k for parts alone. Add in machining, and you'll be at another $1250-$1500 in labor. Assembly, add another $350-$500. That is how these things get to be in the 3k range once all is said and done. ASSUMING you can find a machinist who knows what the hell he is doing.
I had mine rebuilt about 3 years ago. Keeping in mind I paid someone else for all the labor and added Ignition upgrade, header etc. Mechanic also fixed several other issues as he found them. My bill ended up at $7000.
The rebuild in the 78 2F in Chester ran $5k 5 years ago - it's a complete desmog.