FJ40 Complete Body and Tub

[Unreal]

Afternoon, fellow FJ40 owners. I have a 1979 FJ40, and I am frustrated with the availability of the correct tubs and the quality that I have read about the available ones. I just got off the phone with a manufacturer in Michigan that can reproduce the entire vehicle. However I have to determine if it is viable and at what price point it would be at to do so. (s***s not free) If you could get an entire FJ40 Tub/Cab from your era please drop in the chat what you would pay. Mind you, it is not made of Chinese steel or South American. It will be with coated steel and will be a correct fit based on the vehicles used to determine the measurements. For any of you purists out there that is what I am looking to do (OEM but better)

This is an exploratory process; if we have enough interest, we can produce them. If anyone wants to back a project, feel free to PM me, and we can talk about the numbers.

 

[EWheeler]

Afternoon, fellow FJ40 owners. I have a 1979 FJ40, and I am frustrated with the availability of the correct tubs and the quality that I have read about the available ones. I just got off the phone with a manufacturer in Michigan that can reproduce the entire vehicle. However I have to determine if it is viable and at what price point it would be at to do so. (s***s not free) If you could get an entire FJ40 Tub/Cab from your era please drop in the chat what you would pay. Mind you, it is not made of Chinese steel or South American. It will be with coated steel and will be a correct fit based on the vehicles used to determine the measurements. For any of you purists out there that is what I am looking to do (OEM but better)

This is an exploratory process; if we have enough interest, we can produce them. If anyone wants to back a project, feel free to PM me, and we can talk about the numbers.

You will spend less just buying a rust free late model 40 than this venture. Lets say the tub is $25k for "American" steel and labor, and I think that is cheap for buying small quantities. Then you have another $20k still (likely more) in paint and body work. You're not setting that on an unrestored chassis and drivetrain. You're $100k minimum into this 40. You can go buy a really really nice one for cheaper and be driving it this weekend....

If these guys in Michigan aren't already producing the bodies for TLC4x4 or Icon builds, IMO there isn't a market for them to sell to.

 

[Unreal]

You will spend less just buying a rust free late model 40 than this venture. Lets say the tub is $25k for "American" steel and labor, and I think that is cheap for buying small quantities. Then you have another $20k still (likely more) in paint and body work. You're not setting that on an unrestored chassis and drivetrain. You're $100k minimum into this 40. You can go buy a really really nice one for cheaper and be driving it this weekend....

If these guys in Michigan aren't already producing the bodies for TLC4x4 or Icon builds, IMO there isn't a market for them to sell to.

My rig is driveable and runs excellently. I am not enamored by the quality of the tubs I have seen in the forums. They all have too many tradeoffs.

 

[thebovees]

Check out Land Cruiser Cabs - https://www.hardbody4x4.com/cabs--cowls.html - All aluminum tubs +!

 

[fjc-man]

Going that route, might as well check out Aqualu.com that’s who makes those aluminum bodies.

 

[Jdc1]

Going that route, might as well check out Aqualu.com that’s who makes those aluminum bodies.

Quality option but definitely not stock and definitely not bolt on and go for stock appearance.

 

[jayp2]

Quality option but definitely not stock and definitely not bolt on and go for stock appearance.

ccot makes a 3/4 tub....no cowl

probably the closest/highest quality option......but its something like 14k before shipping

 

[Jdc1]

ccot makes a 3/4 tub....no cowl

probably the closest/highest quality option......but its something like 14k before shipping

The positive side of working with a replacement tub is that there aren’t any hidden surprises. Unless you are capable of doing the work and have the time, a restoration/paint job/rust repair is expensive when you bring in someone else to do it.

 

[jayp2]

The positive side of working with a replacement tub is that there aren’t any hidden surprises. Unless you are capable of doing the work and have the time, a restoration/paint job/rust repair is expensive when you bring in someone else to do it.

There are always hidden surprises no matter what route you go

Dimensional issues, lack of captured nuts, the list goes on and on.

Gozzard makes a nice glass tub as well.....

If the shipping on a tub from columbia were not equal to cost of the tub I would be inclined to roll the dice on that option for a steel tub

Unless someone comes back with much improved topnault tub experiences I think I am considering either Gozzard or Aqula/Aluminum

 

[joseywales]

Going that route, might as well check out Aqualu.com that’s who makes those aluminum bodies.

Hardbodies is the vehicle body branch of Aqualu (which was originally a boat/pontoon manufacturing company). I know this because I’m the guy who asked his friend Todd if he could make a body for my rusty ‘76 FJ40 way back in 1991. You’re welcome.

Todd’s bodies are what ICON uses (I’ve helped with final finishing on a batch of bodies for them), and I think most agree, ICON makes amazing 40s.

If you are looking for an OEM look, I agree with the previous poster in that you might be better off buying a clean body off an original Toyota FJ. Having a company price out a scratch built steel body here in NA will likely be prohibitively expensive.

 

[jayp2]

Hardbodies is the vehicle body branch of Aqualu (which was originally a boat/pontoon manufacturing company). I know this because I’m the guy who asked his friend Todd if he could make a body for my rusty ‘76 FJ40 way back in 1991. You’re welcome.

Todd’s bodies are what ICON uses (I’ve helped with final finishing on a batch of bodies for them), and I think most agree, ICON makes amazing 40s.

If you are looking for an OEM look, I agree with the previous poster in that you might be better off buying a clean body off an original Toyota FJ. Having a company price out a scratch built steel body here in NA will likely be prohibitively expensive.

The problem with a clean body off an original is that its almost certain that the frame and other bits are similarly in good condition and parting out a good condition 40 to be a donor for a poor condition 40 is usually impractical and $$$$ cuz you probably need to sand blast that body and re-paint regardless.

 

[ryanwk628]

Quality option but definitely not stock and definitely not bolt on and go for stock appearance.

Im doing an aluminum tub for mine. I agree it does not look stock, but the biggest giveaways are not the tub, but their tailgate (and fenders/hood if you go that far.) I am planning on keeping steel half doors (which you can get aftermarket,) as well as my hood and front fenders - and possibly modifying a Toyota dog house for the shifter on the inside. Other than the ribbing inside the back, it should look pretty stock to 99% of the people who are not mud experts.

 

[Jdc1]

Im doing an aluminum tub for mine. I agree it does not look stock, but the biggest giveaways are not the tub, but their tailgate (and fenders/hood if you go that far.) I am planning on keeping steel half doors (which you can get aftermarket,) as well as my hood and front fenders - and possibly modifying a Toyota dog house for the shifter on the inside. Other than the ribbing inside the back, it should look pretty stock to 99% of the people who are not mud experts.

With enough attention to detail, you can get close, only those that are 40 fanatical can pick up on @Chungas Revenge ’s ‘76. My Team and I are pretty proud of this build. Only the hood is stock, stock HT and doors will fit as well.

 

[joseywales]

Im doing an aluminum tub for mine. I agree it does not look stock, but the biggest giveaways are not the tub, but their tailgate (and fenders/hood if you go that far.) I am planning on keeping steel half doors (which you can get aftermarket,) as well as my hood and front fenders - and possibly modifying a Toyota dog house for the shifter on the inside. Other than the ribbing inside the back, it should look pretty stock to 99% of the people who are not mud experts.

I did three aluminum tubs on my own 40s (back when you could buy a rusty driver for $1,500!), and never worried about it not being 100% stock. For every one of them, I kept the stock hood and fenders.

If you are doing a concours restoration, aluminum ain’t for you…

 

[joseywales]

With enough attention to detail, you can get close, only those that are 40 fanatical can pick up on @Chungas Revenge ’s ‘76. My Team and I are pretty proud of this build. Only the hood is stock, stock HT and doors will fit as well. View attachment 3700921

Which body did you use?

 

[Jdc1]

Which body did you use?

Aqualu- Cowl, Front Clip, Windshield Frame and Tub.

 

[cstav86]

Have you called Classic Cruisers and ask what they have available?

 

[ryanwk628]

I did three aluminum tubs on my own 40s (back when you could buy a rusty driver for $1,500!), and never worried about it not being 100% stock. For every one of them, I kept the stock hood and fenders.

If you are doing a concours restoration, aluminum ain’t for you…

Agreed. That said, I never cared for the flat tailgate and paddle latches. Something about the stamped steel (or fiberglass repro) contours is up there with the front clip or white top as quintessentially 40 series IMO. Each to their own, and if it were behind a spare tire carrier and cooler no one would ever see it anyways.

Their tubs are great though. Stronger than the original and will not rust. Very hard to tell from the outside when finished.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

With enough attention to detail, you can get close, only those that are 40 fanatical can pick up on @Chungas Revenge ’s ‘76. My Team and I are pretty proud of this build. Only the hood is stock, stock HT and doors will fit as well.

Only the shadow knows…

@knuckle47 ….

 

[Pitter Patter]

@EWheeler is spot on but I’d argue his $$$ estimates are too low. If you need a new tub then buy a new 40 or buy your flavor of panels and re-produce it yourself by stitching it to your existing salvageable parts.

The economics of a re-pop OEM or better tub just don’t make sense.

I’m almost done with building a ‘new’ tub for mine. I’ve learned that these aren’t simple vehicles when it comes to the details of the body. You can do fast body work and make it look cool for the 99.9% of people that don’t know the difference (I’d put all the reproduction tubs in this category). If you want a true OEM or better with all the original construction details and character then you need to find a bodywork wizard and have a bottomless wallet.

Don’t mean to be a downer. You can do… or pay… for high quality work that will pass as damn near OEM. But it’s time consuming and it isn’t cheap.