Fj40 2H swap (1 Viewer)

[Dinkum]

I’m just gathering some info before I start my 2H swap into a 1977 fj40.
Curious to know the most practical way to measure up and secure the new gearbox cross member in place?
Also wondering if I will need to modify drive shafts at all and if yes, if anyone knows what is required?
Finally, I’ve heard conflicting reports about fitting the 2H radiator in place. Does this need to move forward at all or not?

Thanks for any help guys

 

[POPO AGIE]

I’m just gathering some info before I start my 2H swap into a 1977 fj40.
Curious to know the most practical way to measure up and secure the new gearbox cross member in place?
Also wondering if I will need to modify drive shafts at all and if yes, if anyone knows what is required?
Finally, I’ve heard conflicting reports about fitting the 2H radiator in place. Does this need to move forward at all or not?

Thanks for any help guys

What I was instructed to do was use the mounts and bolts for the bell housing if your are using a 2F housing or the bell housing you have has motor mounts. That will hold the back end where you need it. Install the insulator on the transmission. You may need to take a die grinder and birr bit to the holes in the insulator to get all 4 holes to line up. Bolt the crossmember to the insulator, square everything up on the crossmember and tack.

 

[Dinkum]

What I was instructed to do was use the mounts and bolts for the bell housing if your are using a 2F housing or the bell housing you have has motor mounts. That will hold the back end where you need it. Install the insulator on the transmission. You may need to take a die grinder and birr bit to the holes in the insulator to get all 4 holes to line up. Bolt the crossmember to the insulator, square everything up on the crossmember and tack.

Thanks heaps for your reply.
I was actually planning on using the engine, clutch, bell housing and gearbox all from a Hj47 which would mean no bell housing mounts for gearbox.
I do have the bell housing for the 2F here, so would that be easier? Does the 2f bell housing bolt straight up to the 2H?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I don't think the 2F would work with the H block. The 2F has those 4 internal bolts to the back of the 2/3F block and the H bell housing has all of the bolts external. If the 2F bell housing is the same length and the 2 external bolts match the block you could attach it to use the motor mounts for mocking up the new crossmember.

I am not sure but the frame width is wider on the J47 so you may need to modify the crossmember to fit the narrower distance between the frame rails.

Would you be willing to sell the 2F inspection cover that goes to the bottom of the bell housing?

 

[Dinkum]

I don't think the 2F would work with the H block. The 2F has those 4 internal bolts to the back of the 2/3F block and the H bell housing has all of the bolts external. If the 2F bell housing is the same length and the 2 external bolts match the block you could attach it to use the motor mounts for mocking up the new crossmember.

Would you be will to sell the 2F inspection cover that goes to the bottom of the bell housing?

Ahhh ok, thanks for the info.
Sorry but I’m keeping the original parts just in case I choose to go back later.
Thanks again.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Ahhh ok, thanks for the info.
Sorry but I’m keeping the original parts just in case I choose to go back later.
Thanks again.

I am putting a Cummins R2.8 diesel in mine too. I did think about the 12HT but it was more expensive and hard to fine because they were not in production very long.

I am using the 2F bell housing and used adapters from Overland Cruisers in MT to use the H55F and split transfer case with 3:1 low range.

 

[locklaw]

A 2H has a radiator and cradle that differ from the one on a 2F but they mount in the same way on the same place, so make sure you get everything from the 47 you are using for parts. The 2H and 2F frames (chassis) are the same width.

To mount the transmission, as stated above, use the 2F bellhousing with the ears on and bolt it to the later transmission (gearbox) you want to use with the crossmember mount. Hang the ears of the 2F bellhousing and this let's you get measurements for mounting the crossmember for the under gearbox mount. This way your driveshafts (prop shafts) stay the same.

Once you have the transmission mount in place on its mounting, take off the 2F bellhousing and stab in the 2H with its plate, bellhousing, flywheel clutch and other ancillaries. I can't remember if the chassis mounts for the 2H engine mounts fit straight into the 2F chassis engine mounts anymore (did this 20 years ago) but if not, address that issue.

Then you want to get the vacuum canister and steel lines for the brake booster from your 47 also, else you risk running out of vacuum.

With that said, it was not all it was cracked up to be and I undid it a few years later, fortunately having kept everything taken off.

 

[Dinkum]

A 2H has a radiator and cradle that differ from the one on a 2F but they mount in the same way on the same place, so make sure you get everything from the 47 you are using for parts. The 2H and 2F frames (chassis) are the same width.

To mount the transmission, as stated above, use the 2F bellhousing with the ears on and bolt it to the later transmission (gearbox) you want to use with the crossmember mount. Hang the ears of the 2F bellhousing and this let's you get measurements for mounting the crossmember for the under gearbox mount. This way your driveshafts (prop shafts) stay the same.

Once you have the transmission mount in place on its mounting, take off the 2F bellhousing and stab in the 2H with its plate, bellhousing, flywheel clutch and other ancillaries. I can't remember if the chassis mounts for the 2H engine mounts fit straight into the 2F chassis engine mounts anymore (did this 20 years ago) but if not, address that issue.

Then you want to get the vacuum canister and steel lines for the brake booster from your 47 also, else you risk running out of vacuum.

With that said, it was not all it was cracked up to be and I undid it a few years later, fortunately having kept everything taken off.

Great information here mate, thank you!
What did you dislike about the 2H in the shorty? I’ve had a few in hj47 and found them to be slow but bulletproof reliable.

 

[Dinkum]

I am putting a Cummins R2.8 diesel in mine too. I did think about the 12HT but it was more expensive and hard to fine because they were not in production very long.

I am using the 2F bell housing and used adapters from Overland Cruisers in MT to use the H55F and split transfer case with 3:1 low range.

View attachment 3550384

That should be an awesome rig once finished!

 

[locklaw]

Great information here mate, thank you!
What did you dislike about the 2H in the shorty? I’ve had a few in hj47 and found them to be slow but bulletproof reliable.

Any time, happy to help. The 2H was in a 45. Slow and not that more economical than a 2F which at least can keep up with traffic. Out here, 2H stuff has always been a lot more expensive than H or 2F stuff.

I grew up with a few H powered donkeys working on the farms and prefer the H over the 2H. Might just be me. My painter's 60 runs an unopened 2H sitting on 970,000 odd km which he drove through Africa to London so yep, they are reliable.