FJ40 1974 Factory Crimps? (1 Viewer)

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Mar 16, 2015
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Are these splices/crimps factory?

I have what looks like to be a factory Trailer socket and switch maybe this was put in the same time as the trailer socket and switch?

Most of these are located above the rear passenger tire.

At first I thought they were after market but after finding this old thread I'm wondering if it was done like this from the factory?

Old thread.

Picture of the red tape from the old thread
FJ40 1974 Stock Crimping?.jpg






Picture of my wires with the crimps they were under the red tape.
FJ40 1974 Crimp.jpeg


FJ40 1974 Crimp.jpeg
 
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V8FJ4078

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^^^

Wow! If @V8FJ4078 is correct...learn something new everyday. Well not ‘every’ day.😁
I will have to take a picture of mine, I just rebuilt my rear 1978 harness and had 4 or 5 of these. 2 were under soft clear plastic "caps" and the others just had the yellow tape.
I soldered them once crimped in the new harness and used heat shrink tubing over them to seal them.
I just finished my harness about 2 weeks ago so will have to take a few pictures tomorrow night.
 
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How would you redo these crimps?

I have about 5-6 of them.

Do they sell 3 way crimps?
 
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Ackcruisers

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I’ve restored a 1975 and 1976 FJ40 harness and those crimps were on both harnesses. I was surprised how they were just crimped with tape around them. In my restored harnesses, I use double walled marine grade heat shrink vs the factory tape. I buy my factory crimps from @Coolerman. The crimper tool required to crimp the heavy crimp (they come in small, medium and large) is shown below.

1D359334-A631-4F47-9864-BC57C1F3DB82.jpeg

30E4FA79-CDFC-487D-8D90-53623344389A.jpeg

50351A6D-26E1-499E-92B7-F9B7C4E86A7E.jpeg
 
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Ackcruisers

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I'd solder and heat shrink

Even better is the heat shrink with the glue/sealant on the inside that melts and seals the joint
Even better is to crimp using the factory crimp, solder and then double heat shrink with marine grade tubes (they have the glue). You will impress the engineers from SpaceX with all that redundancy.
 
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Newbie question. Any recommendation for supplies?

Factory Crimp from Coolerman
Solder?
Double heat Shrink marine grade tubes?
 

steffan

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i'm with bhsdriller: how can you argue with something that's lasted this long?? granted, if i were redoing it, i'd go the extra step
 
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My big question is if this was a factory splice that wasn't soldered why would strip the insulation back that far. Even joints I solder I do not leave that much bare wire. Even bullet connectors get soldered and shrink tape if I'm doing the part of why I like leaving the insulation is shorter the gap with no insulation the less likely bend. Not sure at what point I would even think about putting in an aftermarket harness. I also like fixing a problem once and just have it go away. Adding grounds is also not a bad thing. I noticed on my 70 when it was idling the license plate light was flickering. Even on a rust free barn door the hinges were not making a good ground.
 

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