FJ only starts when I....... (1 Viewer)

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My 66 FJ40 with a 71 F engine will only start if I pour gas or spray carb cleaner down the intake of the carburetor. I adjusted the carburetor as per my Haynes manual and still no luck. I bought the carburetor on ebay and rebuilt it myself. It is a stock Aisan 2 bbl carburetor.

The following is what I have done to the vehicle recently.

1. Replaced fuel pump prior to rebuilding the carburetor because I had gas in my oil.

2. Checked for clogged or restricted fuel lines from tank to carburetor. Cleaned inside of my gas tank.

3. Replaced fuel filter

4. Removed Head and Intake/ Exhaust Manifold because I had coolant in my oil. Disassembled head and cleaned it thoroughly. Installed new head gasket and intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Reinstalled everything per my Haynes manual. Everything is torqued properly.

5. Checked for 12vdc at idle solenoid. I removed it from the carburetor and it is very loud when you apply power to it. I then reinstalled the idle solenoid and when I turn the ignition on I can barely hear it. Is that normal or could that be the problem.

6. The carburetor bowl is a little bit more than half full so I know that the fuel is making it that far.

The vehicle has not been running in about six months. I know that it is pretty obvious that my carburetor is the culprit but I am unsure of where to begin.

If you have any ideas please be specific on what to do because for some reason the Aisan carb has a tendency to really confuse the hell out of me. I seem to get all of the screws on the carburetor mixed up.

Thanks,
Drew
 
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Weird

If I spray carb cleaner down the carburetor and turn the ignition she will fire right up. If I pour a little gas down the carburetor and turn the ignition she will fire right up.

The only way she will fire up from the gas in the fuel tank running to the carburetor is if I choke it about 75%. Let me know what you carb gurus think.

Thanks,
Drew
 

DSRTRDR

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5. Checked for 12vdc at idle solenoid. I removed it from the carburetor and it is very loud when you apply power to it. I then reinstalled the idle solenoid and when I turn the ignition on I can barely hear it. Is that normal or could that be the problem.

it should click when it gets power, not making any other noises

the click removes the pin out of the fuel passage, opening it

The only way she will fire up from the gas in the fuel tank running to the carburetor is if I choke it about 75%.

I always pull the choke on start-up :meh:






I am not a carb guru, though ;p
 
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You do not state that you have idle problems. Only start up.... the accelerator pump primes the carb intake and eases starting. That is why you pat it 3-4 times before you turn the key. Same reason that she will fire when you choke it. Richer mixture is needed on startup because of the inefficient burn of the fuel.

If EVERYTHING else is perfect this is not that important. But in more older Cruisers than not, it is vital.

The fact that priming the intake by hand makes it start right up points with very high probablility to this being the problem.


Mark...
 
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I went ahead and took another look at my idle solenoid and it doesn't seem to want to open and close when attached to the carb. I went ahead and removed my idle solenoid and tested it using my battery terminals and it worked flawlessly. I think either the needle on the solenoid is a little to bent or it is very picky when it comes to a ground. Would this explain the no start issue I am expieriencing?
 
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... I think either the needle on the solenoid is a little to bent or it is very picky when it comes to a ground. Would this explain the no start issue I am expieriencing?

Based upon my experience with a bent idle solenoid needle, I don't think it explains the start issue you are having. My truck was dieseling (i.e. would run on after turning the key off) due to a bent idle solenoid needle. It had no problem starting up with the bent needle.

As Marc W has indicated, you should check your accelerator pump function. Remove the air cover so that you can see into the carb. Do not choke the carb because if you do the plate will obstruct your view for the next step. While looking down the carb, move the accelerator pump level up and down (alternatively you can have an assistant pump the gas pedal) and confirm that a small jet of fuel is being sprayed into the primary.

The function of the accelerator pump is to shoot the small jet of fuel down into the carb. If you do not see the fuel spray, this component is not doing its function and is very likely what is causing your starting up issue.
 
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I looked at my accelerator pump and noticed that it is only dribbling fuel out. I will remove the carburetor tonight and go ahead and take it apart and see whats going on. Hopefully that is my problem.

Thanks,
Drew
 
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not an attempt to hijack.. but i have the exact same issue right now.

Changed the accelerator pump thinking that would cure it.. but it still isn't getting the necessary squirt to get it started so i have to use starting fluid.

it appears almost as if the cylinder that the pump plunges in and out of may be worn a bit thru years of use.. has anyone experienced this issue? and if that chamber is worn out.. is there any fix to this like a thicker rubber on the accelerator pump or something.. :meh: .. time for another carb?
 
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I went ahead and pulled the top of the carburetor and started looking around and it appears that the accelerator pump nozzle is clogged. Does anyone know what I can stick through the nozzle to unclog it. I tried a paper clip and thumb tack and they are to big.

Thanks,
Drew
 
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If you are trying to start it without giving it any throttle at all... then possibly. Otherwise probably not.


Mark...

I should have never doubted you...... I ended up taking a spring and shoving it through the nozzle and the pump seems to work beautifully now. I just have to order another gasket and put her back together.

Thanks,
Drew
 
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not an attempt to hijack.. but i have the exact same issue right now.

Changed the accelerator pump thinking that would cure it.. but it still isn't getting the necessary squirt to get it started so i have to use starting fluid.

it appears almost as if the cylinder that the pump plunges in and out of may be worn a bit thru years of use.. has anyone experienced this issue? and if that chamber is worn out.. is there any fix to this like a thicker rubber on the accelerator pump or something.. :meh: .. time for another carb?

Have you verified that the nozzle isn't clogged??
 
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Well my 40 starts right up now but doesn't want to idle. I cant screw with her to much because my thermostat is stuck closed and my thermostat housing is broken :bang:. This may seem like a stupid question but I have seen numerous videos on youtube of people that are trying to sell there engines and they will run them for a period of about 5 minutes without a radiator. So is it ok to run a engine for a very short period of time without coolant flow.

Thanks,
Drew
 
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Well my 40 starts right up now but doesn't want to idle. I cant screw with her to much because my thermostat is stuck closed and my thermostat housing is broken :bang:. This may seem like a stupid question but I have seen numerous videos on youtube of people that are trying to sell there engines and they will run them for a period of about 5 minutes without a radiator. So is it ok to run a engine for a very short period of time without coolant flow.

Thanks,
Drew


Yes it is fine. you can run it until it starts overheating.... several minutes at least..... as long as 10-15 depending on the engine and the environment.


Mark...
 
Joined
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not an attempt to hijack.. but i have the exact same issue right now.

Changed the accelerator pump thinking that would cure it.. but it still isn't getting the necessary squirt to get it started so i have to use starting fluid.

it appears almost as if the cylinder that the pump plunges in and out of may be worn a bit thru years of use.. has anyone experienced this issue? and if that chamber is worn out.. is there any fix to this like a thicker rubber on the accelerator pump or something.. :meh: .. time for another carb?



Have yet to encounter a worn bore. I guess it is possible, but unlikely. Make sure that the jet to the carb throat is clear (thin wire pushed through from both sides and then the well cleaned of debris also)... makes sure that the check ball and spring are in place in the jet well... as well as the pin that sits on top of them. Make sure that the check ball and retaining spring are not fouled in the pump bore.


Mark...
 
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Yes it is fine. you can run it until it starts overheating.... several minutes at least..... as long as 10-15 depending on the engine and the environment.


Mark...

Ok so I can tinker with her a little bit.... When the 40 starts it will run for a few seconds and then die. If I hold the choke about 70-80% closed I can get the 40 to run for a minute or so but it still dies short after. What should I look for now????

Thanks,
Drew
 

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