FJ 62 SOA begins!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Shinichi said:
Nicely done so far. Who's high steer are you going to use?
Click to expand...

I picked up Marlin's hi steer kit. 423.00 with shipping, and it is BEEFY looking!
I was looking at 4x4 labs too, but the almighty buck won out in the end as they are pretty spendy (over 150.00 more) for basically the same function. Im pleased with it so far.

Chicago
 
I was just looking at the marlin stuff. Seems well thought out. The 4x4 kit puts the tie rod behind the axle right? not worth the extra $150? I guess when it is all together the tie rod is pretty high up and out of the way, except in the most extreme situations. I think the Marlin is the way I will go too.
 
Shinichi said:
I was just looking at the marlin stuff. Seems well thought out. The 4x4 kit puts the tie rod behind the axle right? not worth the extra $150? I guess when it is all together the tie rod is pretty high up and out of the way, except in the most extreme situations. I think the Marlin is the way I will go too.
Click to expand...

Correct about the 4x4 labs set up. One arm in front, one towards the rear. Supposedly its a really good system, but not enough of a benefit that I wanted to spend extra cash on either. Marlin's is nice, and the price was among the best I found especially for CnC'd steer arms...and they sure look pretty! At their thickest point, they are about an inch thick! Crazy beefy! The bars too are nothing to sneeze at!

Chicago
 
I heard that some people have a problem with the 4x4 labs set-up hitting thier oil pan at full flex. Might have been other issues involved as well, but not sure. (It wasnt me but another guy in our club.)
 
89s rule said:
I heard that some people have a problem with the 4x4 labs set-up hitting thier oil pan at full flex. Might have been other issues involved as well, but not sure. (It wasnt me but another guy in our club.)
Click to expand...

that is good information to know...I never thought about that, but I can see how it would happen!

Chicago
 
Just to update!
Got my spring packs re assembled, and got the springs, shackles etc bolted back up under the rig, and started set the perches up...This has turned out to be A LOT tougher of a task than I originally thought, actually, the perch on the pass side that nestles into the pumpkin is the main culprit! After a day and a half of chasing my tail, trying to get everything square, Ive decided to PUSS OUT and take in to get the perches set and the c and t done. I just dont trust myself to do it exactly right, how I want it, so Im going to leave it to professionals.
Anyway, here are some pics of what Ive done thus far.

Man I feel like a WIMP for doing this, but Id rather be safe in the long run, that stroke my ego and be sorry later.

BTW, I discovered on my rig, that the stock angles WILL NOT work and a cut and turn is NECESSARY. At full droop of the suspension, the x fer u joint binds with the x fer output flange. Just FYI!

Chicago
SOApics 028.webp
SOApics 030.webp
SOApics 031.webp
 
If you rotate the pinion to point directly at the transfercase output you should run a double cardan shaft. that is a main reason for doing a c+t to the front axle along with caster. A DC shaft will insure a no-vibration drivetrain and is best. It's problably good you are doing the c+t I just thought that it wasn't needed as much on a 62 because of the added length of the auto vs. h42.

get it done man.

pictures look good!

Dylan
 
Last edited:
CaliCruiser said:
If you rotate the pinion to point directly at the transfercase output you should run a double cardan shaft. that is a main reason for doing a c+t to the front axle along with caster. A DC shaft will insure a no-vibration drivetrain and is best. It's problably good you are doing the c+t I just thought that it wasn't needed as much on a 62 because of the added length of the auto vs. h42.

get it done man.

pictures look good!

Dylan
Click to expand...

Thanks D!
I only just learned about a DC drive shaft on another post I had up...Where do you get those? How much are they. Damn, the expenses just SNOW BALL for this project!:crybaby:

Thanks,

Chicago
 
You can get a custom one from a driveline shop or you can source one from a pre-85 FJ60. You will have to get the pre-85 driveshaft lengthened though. You might be better off gettting a custom one because the double cardon cruiser drivshafts usually costs about $100 and then you have to pay to have it lengthened.
 
> a pre-85 FJ60

Bingo.. Or a mini truck shaft with a double cardon same u-joint. I found a double cardon and all they had to do was add it to my existing front driveshaft, worked great, about $70 out the door balanced. Hope it helps.. Andre
 
rusty_tlc said:
Or you could just buy a DS from High Angle. Thats where I got my DC rear.
Click to expand...

Hey Rusty,
Is that a local joint?

How much it run ya?

Chicago
 
dieselcruiserhead said:
> a pre-85 FJ60

Bingo.. Or a mini truck shaft with a double cardon same u-joint. I found a double cardon and all they had to do was add it to my existing front driveshaft, worked great, about $70 out the door balanced. Hope it helps.. Andre
Click to expand...

So, the mini trucks have the same bolt patterns as the LC'S?
You were able to use your stock DS too?

Chicago
 
I did the mini cv on my 40 too, I found two of em in good shape for $50. I had to drill my flanges at the t-case, both front and on the e-brake drum. no problems so far. you're on the right track chicago, keep it up. :cool:

mike
 
Thanks for the support fellas!
Are you guyz running them both front and rear?

Chicago
 
chicago said:
Hey Rusty,
Is that a local joint?

How much it run ya?

Chicago
Click to expand...

I think he is in So-Cal. I don't have my receipts here at work. I spent so much money on my 40 I have pproblems remembering how much I spent where. :rolleyes: I know it wasen't cheap, nothing was.

The thing is Jessie at High Angle will talk you through the whole process and knows what to ask to get you the right thing first time. I had to send him my rear outout flange (e-brake drum in my case) to get re-drilled to accept the double cardon from a mini truck.

High Angle has a very good reputation in the LC community.
 
Thanks Rusty and Calicruiser!
I just put an e mail into High Angle, and Ill start there!
OUCH!!!! those are some pricy components...

Chicago
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Fj 62 instrument cluster removal
Replies
7
Views
745
PeterEdm
P
C
FJ-62 restoration
Replies
14
Views
1K
chris lc90
C
M
Longer Brake lines for fj-62
Replies
6
Views
738
cruisermatt
cruisermatt
whodat1462
1988 FJ 62
Replies
9
Views
905
kevin in okinawa
kevin in okinawa

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom