- Thread starter
- #41
Haha negative! I believe the PO used tub and tile caulk! The proper Gromet will be installed when it comes to the finishing touches.
Builds FJ-60 LQ4/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter AggiePE
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Made some progress on be exhaust. Got the pipes bolted up to the headers and run to the magnaflow (model #12558) for those curious. Tacked in the stubby v band clamp pipes and bolted them to the rest of the exhaust. Got my shifter boots back on and the floor sealed up.
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- #43
I fired it up and to say it sounds mean is an understatement!! I only ran it for about 30 seconds with no radiator that's probably the only time until I get it installed with a fan and shroud.
I've looked around at a few options and corvette manifolds seem like the best choice. I tried to PM you but your inbox is full, I'd definitely be interested in a lower cost set than Ebay. Send me a PM when you can...
- Thread starter
- #46
I used 2" titanium header/exhaust wrap. Bought a 100' roll off amazon.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Did you wrap just that section because there was not heat shield for the body? Or was there another reason?
- Thread starter
- #48
I wrapped from the flange at the manifold to the muffler strictly for heat reasons. My fuel lines, brake lines, power wiring to fuel pump run along the inside of the frame rail. I wrapped around the t-case to keep the heat off the floor since there is no heat shield and keep the temp on the t-case down.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I always wonder if having one pipe almost straight and the other one with more turns and bends, does not affect the engine exhaust flow, backpressure, exhaust valves, scavenging etc .. ?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Adding a h pipe or x pipe will help with all that and also changes the sound in a good way did an h pipe on @SharpasMarbles 60 with lq4 and nv4500 smooths out the sound @Tapage
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- #51
I talked to a race car buddy if mine and he said that since the x pipe would only combine the exhaust together 18" before it comes together inside the muffler it probably wouldn't help the situation. There would a a difference probably in friction pressure but it's neglidlbe when it comes to damagin the motor.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Not sure what muffler you have but some of them have an x inside the muffler is yours two into one or dual in dual out.
- Thread starter
- #54
Mine is a dual 2-1/2" inlet and a single 3" outlet. It has a y pipe inside the muffler where it goes to the 3" outlet.
I'm getting down to the wire on firing mine, but I have no starter engagement when I hit the key. Like there is a neutral safety switch somewhere.
What I don't know is what to do with the old alternator wires. Both the green plug and the wires with the eyelet.
Mine is an 87. I used the PSI harness. I used the same harness on my 69 Camaro, but I didn't have any issue there. Maybe I hooked the wrong wire to the starter solenoid
Suggestions?
What I don't know is what to do with the old alternator wires. Both the green plug and the wires with the eyelet.
Mine is an 87. I used the PSI harness. I used the same harness on my 69 Camaro, but I didn't have any issue there. Maybe I hooked the wrong wire to the starter solenoid
Suggestions?
- Thread starter
- #56
I just hooked up the large white wire that bolted to the alternator to the GM alternator. I left the green plug alone for now. One of the wires in the plug if a signal wire and the other is a low batter light wire. I may hook up the battery light wire but I have no need for the signal wire because the LS PCM will control the GM alternator. As far as the starter goes, I just hooked up the battery cable and the solenoid wire. Turned over as it should have. The solenoid wire was zip tied to the lager power wire that goes to the starter. I had to cut the connector off he end and solder a ring connector. I'd start by making sure it is the correct wire.
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I think the issue may be I need the large white wire hooked to the alternator. My harness from PSI already had a wire, but I bet I need the large white one for power also. The wire I hooked to the starter was with the battery cable, and was a spade terminal. So I think I have the right one there. The plug for the transmission reverse signal, and 4wd was in the same harness also.
What brand muffler did you use
I hooked up the white wires and she fired right up!!!
So why not go under the front of the trans, in front of the pan on auto conversions to get the pipes together on the drivers side. There's room, it's high enough, and you don't need to go up and around the transfer case and driveshaft. Virtually every SBC in the late 60's and 70's had the exhaust routed that way from the factory
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- #60
I used magnaflow 12558. There is not room on an auto conversion between the front axle and the pan either. It either gets in the way of the axle or the front driveshaft when the suspension travels.
