- Thread starter
- #61
Glad to hear you got it to run! That was my buggest concern since I re-worked the harness myself.
Build FJ-60 LQ4/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter AggiePE
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no magical answers to this. On my truck its already done. a few reasons come to mind...for me. the exhaust guy set it up this way and I have no ground clearance issues with the exhaust and I don't have to remove any exhaust parts to get to some things. I don't want the exhaust running under the oil pan or under the transmission (my view) I know there were some OEM 5.7 exhaust setups that did various things, one of which had a crossover pipe under the oil pan. I think anything under the oil pan has a high potential to get crushed. I'm also not able to run OEM 5.7 exhaust manifolds either.
there is not a great deal of room to route exhaust wherever you want...and it depends on the manifold/headers how things generally have to run around the engine and the front axle housing can get pretty close to the oil pan anyway (off road) and various things like rocks etc are in the way too... If you don't go offroad and you rune OEM 5.7 manifolds then other options are out there.
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- Thread starter
- #63
I had a SOA setup on a previous fj60 with a 5.7 and it did run under the oil pan. It used "ram horn" headers which have enough room for the bend to go under the oil pan. The PO had done this using 1-7/8"? Exhaust pipe as well which have it. Little more room.
- Thread starter
- #64
Made a little more progress today. Had a local shop adjust my driveshafts and used a DC end to make the rear shaft a DC driveline. They bolted up nicely after re-drilling the flanges in the transfer case. Didn't think about the patterns not matching the newer split case vs the original 83.... nothing a drill press can't handle. I also mocked up my dual electric fans from a dodge intrepid. The fit the radiator almost perfect and cool the engine like a champ so far idling in my garage. We will see how good they work when the A/C is going full blast in the heat of summer...
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Did you adjust your rear pinion angle?
Highly suggest you use (OEM) fine threaded bolts (assuming these are not) for that DC shaft.
- Thread starter
- #67
Good catch and I agreed on the bolts, the OEM bolts are ordered and should be here later next week. The pinion angle was "adjusted" with the lift springs and was never completely correct because it had a vibration starting at about 65 that was coming from somewhere in the driveline. I assume it was from the rear pinion angle being off with the original drive shaft that was not DC. The rear pinion is pointed at the transfer case best I can tell and measure with the cheap-o angle finder from the local hardware store.
- Thread starter
- #68
Got the new tach put in the dash and hooked up. Had an old one laying around and it fit pretty nicely after adjusting the factory housing.
- Thread starter
- #69
Finally got the hood back on and its starting to feel complete! I did the Hood strut mod and found that the hood hits the wiper arm. I plan to move the lower strut mounts about and inch forward to get it off the wiper arm cover.
- Thread starter
- #71
Also got the electric fans mounted, upper radiator hose how I like it, and started putting the front end back together.
- Thread starter
- #72
I was able to make a little head way on cleaning up the wiring, relocating the radiator overflow bottle, getting the air intake finished. Also mounted the tach signal that I found in another mud thread related to getting the A/C working with an LS swap and retaining the factory function.
- Thread starter
- #74
I used a relay on the passenger side fender to signal a ground to the ecm to power on the low speed fan when the compressor gets 12v+ from the factory a/c wire. I plan to use the factory wire to operate the factory GM compressor.
- Thread starter
- #75
I got it out and drove it for about 30 minutes over the last few days and have made a few observations.
1 - The power is amazing!
2 - Make sure the radiator hoses are good and tight .
3 - I got a few check engine lights - I was expecting that so I'm glad it happened. 2 of the 3 codes were for the rear O2 sensors - I am not running them so when I have the pcm reprogrammed, they will be removed. The third was for higher than expected idle (P0507) - it says it is related to the Idle air controller, but I found that is isn't the case. I was digging through other GM forums and people said to search for vacuum leaks. I did find a vacuum leak, but its in the intake manifold gasket where it meets the from drivers side of the head. It doesn't really affect the way it runs, its just idling around 800 rpm and fluctuates randomly after its warm. I picked up a new set of intake manifold gaskets today and will replace them this weekend. Also found a few oil leaks. Rear output seal on transfer case, and the oil pressure sending unit piece that bolts to the oil pan. The power steering pump it weak. It will wine like it is under a load, but the tires wont turn and it acts like it has no pressure. I plan to put a new pump on this weekend as well.
1 - The power is amazing!
2 - Make sure the radiator hoses are good and tight .
3 - I got a few check engine lights - I was expecting that so I'm glad it happened. 2 of the 3 codes were for the rear O2 sensors - I am not running them so when I have the pcm reprogrammed, they will be removed. The third was for higher than expected idle (P0507) - it says it is related to the Idle air controller, but I found that is isn't the case. I was digging through other GM forums and people said to search for vacuum leaks. I did find a vacuum leak, but its in the intake manifold gasket where it meets the from drivers side of the head. It doesn't really affect the way it runs, its just idling around 800 rpm and fluctuates randomly after its warm. I picked up a new set of intake manifold gaskets today and will replace them this weekend. Also found a few oil leaks. Rear output seal on transfer case, and the oil pressure sending unit piece that bolts to the oil pan. The power steering pump it weak. It will wine like it is under a load, but the tires wont turn and it acts like it has no pressure. I plan to put a new pump on this weekend as well.
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks, I'm going back with an OEM GM pump (Delco) - If i get more extreme with the cruiser later, I'll probably upgrade to the PSC setup. Thanks for the recommendation though! I got the tailpipe built today by a local shop and they did a great job. Ordered the gear shift know insert from a guy that was recommended on here and it looks great - Keeps the OEM look which I like!
- Thread starter
- #78
I got the intake manifold gaskets changed his morning with no issues, probably took 1-1/2 hrs. If only all intake gaskets were that easy! It did solve the P0507 trouble code as well as the high idle.
- Thread starter
- #79
Installed the factory corvette heat shields to try to cut down the heat on the steering box and shaft components.
