Builds FJ 45 Extended Cab Custom Vehicle Build Finally Begins (1 Viewer)

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I got my new driveshafts made the two long ones are are for the rear and a spare.

The bottom two in the picture are the before (standard) and after (Long Travel) modifications.
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Summit racing has them as well. I understand that it is a standard GM transmission mount.

Yeah... that's what I understood as well... but the one I bought (can't remember part number) didn't match the bolt pattern on bottom of adapter. was easy to make a bracket, but frustrating that it wasn't just a "bolt on". it looked just like that. BUT, my NV4500 adapter is/was really old (10 years+), so... who knows. anyway, thanks again.
 
Dan, is there room in front of your steering box for a fitting?

I am contemplating whether to put the fitting on the top pf the box near the 4 bolt top cover or on the end of the piston.
 
Here are a few from a recent disassemble.

I put the hole on the end toward the bottom to clear the internals. I am not sure if you could get over farther on the side of the box would benefit anything or not. I ground the toyota off to make it easier to drill.
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Not quite what I meant Bret,

You can drill the ridge that is on top of the steering box instead of the end cap one. If room is an issue we could put it there.

I actually prefer to mount it in the end cap tho.

Looks like you have plenty of room Dan.
 
No, you still drill Toyota,

Instead of drilling the end, you drill near the top cap
 
Hmmm... Have to wait and see, I don't follow. Rode the short bus today, must not have got off in time. :)
 
Dan, Dusty ported his 80 sereies steering box (pretty much the same as a 60 series). he will be doing my 60 sereies for me. I can do it anytime I get back if you have that long. If in a hurry, give him a call and he can probably do yours quickly for you
 
I have been putting off the final assembly of my T-case and transmisison long enough. I had to swap top covers on the NV4500 since I did not have a shifter. Dodge dealer cannot look it up without the VIN number. The "Closest" they could come was $580 for the shifter assembly and would not gaurantee it was the right one.

Anyways, I removed the seats, unbolted the rollcage and lifted it about 6" in order to get ther tranny hump off. Now you see why I was dreading it.
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So I didn't have to go through this unbolt the seat, remove the cage stuff again. I modified the tranny hump.

I picked up some weld-on tabs from FC Fabrication. After I cut the hump, I welded the tabs on the T-Case cover and then marked the holes in the transmisison cover and drilled them out.
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