Thought I'd post a quick video of one way you can fix your leaking rear windows.. Hopefully this can help others..
Fixing rear sliding window leak video (1 Viewer)
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Very nice!
Never would have thought to pull out the end caps and slide the belt molding off. You posted this video just in time for the winter rain season here where I live. 
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Perfect timing as I'm just now addressing a leak in that area.
Many thanks! Perfect timing for the video, as this is my after-work project today!
- Thread starter
- #7
Seriously took me like 20 min to do both sides the other day after work as well.. Hope it is as easy for you as it was me ;>)
That's what I'm hoping for as well! Whenever I play with plastic pieces on the 80, I always break something!
- Thread starter
- #9
Oh yeah same here especially those damn panel retaining clips on the interior panels.. These clips seemed pretty strong they make a loud clicking sound when removed and I thought I broke it the first time I heard it.. But it was just fine..That's what I'm hoping for as well! Whenever I play with plastic pieces on the 80, I always break something!
It's my understanding that the clips for the rear quarter belt molding are no longer available separate from the molding itself, which is still available.
Do you by chance recall how much the molding+clips are going for? It may be worth it just to replace both sides.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
learn something every day, nice......
ppc
M Go Blue
Great video, I never have seen that method suggested before.
Serious question... Why do you have to remove the front most end cap if you are sliding the molding forward? Did you use any sealant on those caps when reinstalling?
Serious question... Why do you have to remove the front most end cap if you are sliding the molding forward? Did you use any sealant on those caps when reinstalling?
Thanks for the video. I've been finding water in the jack holder and could not figure out where it was coming from. Going to seal it tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #16
I guess you really don't have to.. However when you are pulling it forward the cap has a tendency to want to come off.. So I just remove it.. also with it out of the way it gives you a little more to grab on to. I did not seal the caps back on.. They have little clips that hold them in.
Was definitely an issue on mine that went away after I did this. Didn't know about sliding them off and did it the nice gorilla way with a plastic putty knife.
Has anyone done this on the door molding too? The doors drain better, but I wonder if it would be best to remove/reseal those pieces.
Has anyone done this on the door molding too? The doors drain better, but I wonder if it would be best to remove/reseal those pieces.
Nice! Thanks for posting this up.
Errrrr! where was this video 4 days ago? Just did mine (DS) the hard way by pulling the interior panel and popping the clips up and out from the inside to try and not break the plastic clips. Your way looks so much easier, and will definitely do it this way on the passenger side, thanks!
One thing to add if it already wasn't assumed, we used a non-corrosive RTV silicone around the clips. I read that regular silicone may have stuff in it that can be corrosive to the metal, anyways, just my 2 cents.
One thing to add if it already wasn't assumed, we used a non-corrosive RTV silicone around the clips. I read that regular silicone may have stuff in it that can be corrosive to the metal, anyways, just my 2 cents.
I think I read the same thing here. Had just used Permatex Ultra Black RTV (seems to be the most common around me) without giving it a thought. Had to look it up on the site:
Fast-curing formula. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets.
Whew!
