fix for immobilizer issue? (2 Viewers)
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My good luck ran out. The LC started fine all day until after I got home from work (thank god I wasn't at work). The temp was 97F today. I can see a new fuse box in my future.
I gotta tell you guys. I LOVE this site. Thank you Woody.
My wifes 2001 100 w 170k started having this issue once last week. Flush of panic about being stranded with family. Thankfully it started after repositioning headlight switch. Didn't think much about it, suspected fuel pump was going. Then again yesterday morning, crank no start. Thankfully in gargage at home that time. Hadn't started since. Even after I installed $260 worth of new Toyota fuel pump bought this afternoon.
I looked at all the fuses, tried different keys, etc. Still no start. Suspected immobilizer but didn't know what to do with it. FSM not very helpful to me.
Very frustrated, I logged onto Mud, which I should have known to do first. I find this thread with others suffering the same ftrustrations with their 100s.
Went back out to garage, tried 30a fuse in place of the 20a. Still no start. Stiff flashing light on dash with key in. Tried paper clip. Got a little spark inserting paper clip. Flashing light on dash went off. Truck started right up. Took paper clip out, put ORIGINAL 20a fuse back in, rotated 180 degrees (for diff contact points), truck started right up, over and over. Put paper clip in center console for future emergency use.
I ran thru some dep water in ours not too long ago that perhaps splashed up into engine bay. Got battery light on briefly. Perhaps that caused some corrosion in fuse box. Not sure, but at least now I know where to look next time it acts up. And I have a spare fuel pump (w 170k on it.)
THANK YOU MUD MEMBERS. This truly is an awesome resource!
My wifes 2001 100 w 170k started having this issue once last week. Flush of panic about being stranded with family. Thankfully it started after repositioning headlight switch. Didn't think much about it, suspected fuel pump was going. Then again yesterday morning, crank no start. Thankfully in gargage at home that time. Hadn't started since. Even after I installed $260 worth of new Toyota fuel pump bought this afternoon.
I looked at all the fuses, tried different keys, etc. Still no start. Suspected immobilizer but didn't know what to do with it. FSM not very helpful to me.
Very frustrated, I logged onto Mud, which I should have known to do first. I find this thread with others suffering the same ftrustrations with their 100s.
Went back out to garage, tried 30a fuse in place of the 20a. Still no start. Stiff flashing light on dash with key in. Tried paper clip. Got a little spark inserting paper clip. Flashing light on dash went off. Truck started right up. Took paper clip out, put ORIGINAL 20a fuse back in, rotated 180 degrees (for diff contact points), truck started right up, over and over. Put paper clip in center console for future emergency use.
I ran thru some dep water in ours not too long ago that perhaps splashed up into engine bay. Got battery light on briefly. Perhaps that caused some corrosion in fuse box. Not sure, but at least now I know where to look next time it acts up. And I have a spare fuel pump (w 170k on it.)
THANK YOU MUD MEMBERS. This truly is an awesome resource!
As far as from what ive read so far, dont forget to pack an extra spark plug coil pack too! My problems only started happening after i had the engine detailed, so like you said most likely moderate corrosion.
wildsmith
SILVER Star
We suddenly had an immobiliser issue this week and no amount of fiddling with the fuse, jumping it, hitting it etc would make it work even briefly. I can't find any threads with an immobiliser fault where the fuse box isn't implicated so I figured I'd take it apart and see if there was anything to fix in there. It didn't fix our problem but here's what I found in case it helps someone else:
Fusebox with the suspect fuse and relay circled in red
I removed the fusebox from the truck. If you undo the clips holding wires to the casing you can tip the fusebox up enough to get at the connectors underneath and disconnect them. With the fusebox on the bench I removed the bottom cover but I forgot to take a photo of that. That cover is held on by clips around the sides and 2 plastic rivets towards the middle that I had to drill the tops off to release it. Under that cover this is what you've got.
The tracks are laid out on another layer of plastic and lift off. Some of them have male spade connectors that go through to layers underneath and some form the connections for the plugs on the wiring loom. I put the parts in a pile (on the cover I forgot to photo) to get the next layer of plastic off thinking I'd be seeing the back of the fuses!
Turns out there are a few layers, I didn't count but 5 I think:
With all the layers removed the back of the fuse and relay connectors are revealed. They are like double ended connectors pushed into the holes, fuses or relays push into the top side and these tracks push into the underside. The 2 connectors for the EFI fuse circled in red were very loose and barely making contact but no sign of carbon or corrosion.
I didn't feel the connectors were repairable and doubt I'd be able to get replacements so I removed them, drilled out the holes, put the tails of an inline fuse holder through the holes and soldered to the tracks that would go into those holes:
Then I put the rest of it back together. The connectors under the fuse box all only fit in one place.
Fusebox with the suspect fuse and relay circled in red
I removed the fusebox from the truck. If you undo the clips holding wires to the casing you can tip the fusebox up enough to get at the connectors underneath and disconnect them. With the fusebox on the bench I removed the bottom cover but I forgot to take a photo of that. That cover is held on by clips around the sides and 2 plastic rivets towards the middle that I had to drill the tops off to release it. Under that cover this is what you've got.
The tracks are laid out on another layer of plastic and lift off. Some of them have male spade connectors that go through to layers underneath and some form the connections for the plugs on the wiring loom. I put the parts in a pile (on the cover I forgot to photo) to get the next layer of plastic off thinking I'd be seeing the back of the fuses!
Turns out there are a few layers, I didn't count but 5 I think:
With all the layers removed the back of the fuse and relay connectors are revealed. They are like double ended connectors pushed into the holes, fuses or relays push into the top side and these tracks push into the underside. The 2 connectors for the EFI fuse circled in red were very loose and barely making contact but no sign of carbon or corrosion.
I didn't feel the connectors were repairable and doubt I'd be able to get replacements so I removed them, drilled out the holes, put the tails of an inline fuse holder through the holes and soldered to the tracks that would go into those holes:
Then I put the rest of it back together. The connectors under the fuse box all only fit in one place.
That is some DFMEA/DFM stuff right there.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Do you still have Sherman? Name sounds familiar, but I can't remember seeing it. Have you posted anything in the 55 section?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
We suddenly had an immobiliser issue this week and no amount of fiddling with the fuse, jumping it, hitting it etc would make it work even briefly. I can't find any threads with an immobiliser fault where the fuse box isn't implicated so I figured I'd take it apart and see if there was anything to fix in there. It didn't fix our problem but here's what I found in case it helps someone else:
Fusebox with the suspect fuse and relay circled in red
I removed the fusebox from the truck. If you undo the clips holding wires to the casing you can tip the fusebox up enough to get at the connectors underneath and disconnect them. With the fusebox on the bench I removed the bottom cover but I forgot to take a photo of that. That cover is held on by clips around the sides and 2 plastic rivets towards the middle that I had to drill the tops off to release it. Under that cover this is what you've got.
The tracks are laid out on another layer of plastic and lift off. Some of them have male spade connectors that go through to layers underneath and some form the connections for the plugs on the wiring loom. I put the parts in a pile (on the cover I forgot to photo) to get the next layer of plastic off thinking I'd be seeing the back of the fuses!
Turns out there are a few layers, I didn't count but 5 I think:
With all the layers removed the back of the fuse and relay connectors are revealed. They are like double ended connectors pushed into the holes, fuses or relays push into the top side and these tracks push into the underside. The 2 connectors for the EFI fuse circled in red were very loose and barely making contact but no sign of carbon or corrosion.
I didn't feel the connectors were repairable and doubt I'd be able to get replacements so I removed them, drilled out the holes, put the tails of an inline fuse holder through the holes and soldered to the tracks that would go into those holes:
Then I put the rest of it back together. The connectors under the fuse box all only fit in one place.
This did not fix your problem? That would be a bummer! Did you get it fixed since then?
wildsmith
SILVER Star
After a lot of diagnostics we finally figured out one of the processors and another chip on the ECU were dead, processor was a bit tarnished like it might have overheated. The car had just been started on a cool morning, ran for a couple of seconds and then died, no real reason then or in its past it should have got hot due to external factors. A second hand replacement ECU was the fix. I haven't read of any other 100 series ECU failures so just bad luck I hope. As often happens with these kind of things we learn't a lot more about what makes our 100 series go (or not!).
Started to experience turning the key to find power to accessories but the '00 LC not starting. Happened a 2nd time leaving work on NYE. Will take note next time if immobilizer light or others do anything in particular. On both occasions the truck has started after a few tries - may have removed the key, but can't recall. Only opened the hood before it started the 1st time to make sure of a good connection at the battery. No tapping on the fuse box or relays and don't know where the starter is to tap on it.
Noticed today that two tabs on the fender side of the fuse box cover are busted so it's not secure on that side - if anyone knows where a fuse box cover can be squire cheaply that'd be great. No sign of water entering the fuse box.
Something someone mentioned about it possibly being heat related has me wondering about another issue I'm having that seems to be more electrical than it being the AC system itself - that being the flashing AC light at times when I start the truck during the summer heat. Have been able to get it going by turning off/on sometimes with the truck moving. It has stopped on me once while the truck was idling in a parking lot for 30 minutes or so.
Don't think my starting issue has anything to do with heat as seems to be the case with my AC, but Any chance these are related?
If not related, could they be similar - as in both may be suffering from a bad relay?
Any suggestions for diagnosing the problems before I start throwing money at it attacking symptoms rather than being sure I'm addressing the root of the problem?
Thanks in advance - love this resource!
Noticed today that two tabs on the fender side of the fuse box cover are busted so it's not secure on that side - if anyone knows where a fuse box cover can be squire cheaply that'd be great. No sign of water entering the fuse box.
Something someone mentioned about it possibly being heat related has me wondering about another issue I'm having that seems to be more electrical than it being the AC system itself - that being the flashing AC light at times when I start the truck during the summer heat. Have been able to get it going by turning off/on sometimes with the truck moving. It has stopped on me once while the truck was idling in a parking lot for 30 minutes or so.
Don't think my starting issue has anything to do with heat as seems to be the case with my AC, but Any chance these are related?
If not related, could they be similar - as in both may be suffering from a bad relay?
Any suggestions for diagnosing the problems before I start throwing money at it attacking symptoms rather than being sure I'm addressing the root of the problem?
Thanks in advance - love this resource!
its tapping/removing replacing the relay. thats what fixed my problem on my 00 lc. its just bad connections underneath/within the fust block.
Replacing the starter on mine seemed to fix the problems I was having. At least for now. lol
How long have been without issues since you replaced the relay?
That's what I want to avoid . . . How much did that set you back? When?
Tbh, the problem only started when I pressure washed the engine bay. I then removed the relay and kinda brushed the relay contacts and mildly scrubbed the fuse block contacts with a small sliver of folded sand paper. No problems since. I wanna say it's been about 4 or 5 months?
I can almost guarantee its NOT the starter
I don't know the first thing about this stuff. What makes you think it's not the starter?
