fix for immobilizer issue?

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aedavis

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Jan 5, 2004
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Utah
My 2001 Landcruiser has had an immobilizer issue for the past year now. 5 times in the last year, the flashing car thing won't go off (by the clock) when I insert the key. Today it just stranded my wife, and no amount of re-inserting the key would get it to start. I'd say 98% of the time it starts fine, but that 2% is a killer.

Is there any real fix for this? I've heard of resetting the ECM and reprogramming keys - what's the procedure for this, and has it worked for anyone?

Thanks
 
rhino8005 said:
You can change the EFI fuse in the relay/fuse box under the hood. Change the fuse even if it looks good.
Click to expand...

I swapped the radio fuse in and it didn't work. However, when I swapped in the spare 30 amp fuse on top of the box, it started. After I got it home and parked in the garage, it wouldn't start again. I pulled out the spare 30 amp fuse, put a jumper in, and its working now.

I'm going to replace all of the blade type fuses under the hood tomorrow, and keep my jumper in the truck toolbox just in case.

Thanks for the suggestion Rhino - I can't believe the fuse can ohm good and be okay visually, but not work.
 
Last edited:
aedavis said:
I swapped the radio fuse in and it didn't work. However, when I swapped in the spare 30 amp fuse on top of the box, it started. After I got it home and parked in the garage, it wouldn't start again. I pulled out the spare 30 amp fuse, put a jumper in, and its working now.

I'm going to replace all of the blade type fuses under the hood tomorrow, and keep my jumper in the truck toolbox just in case.

Thanks for the suggestion Rhino - I can't believe the fuse can ohm good and be okay visually, but not work.
Click to expand...

It's not the radio fuse. It is labeled EFI under the hood. It is a 20A perpendicular to the radio and hazard fuses.

This fix works. Mine was not blown, barely corroded and it would not start reliably until I replaced it.
 
I've been having the immobilizer issue with intermittent starting problems, but ALSO with the two VSC lights staying on on the dash. Have any of you experienced this...or know of any correlation between the immobilizer and the VSC lights. When the rig won't start, after cranking, all the other dash lights turn off EXCEPT the two VSC lights (and immobilizer light stays blinking).

I guess I'm wondering if the VSC lights point to some problem different from typical immobilizer problems. Or if that's normal for those 2 lights to stay on when the immobilizer won't let the vehicle start?

Here is the thread I just started about it:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...-both-vsc-lights-save-my-marraige-please.html
 
I do not have any experience with the vsc light also lighting up, but I delt with the immobilizer problem for about 2 years. I had a box of 20 amp fuses I would rotate. Fuses ended up melting into my EFI socket. The fourms suggested replacing the relay box, but I refused to believe there was not something else causing the issue. Guess what I replaced the relay box in March and I have not had a problem since. I had the relay box sitting in my cruiser ready to replace myself when it went out for the last time at the wrong time. Shop installed mine, but it can can be done yourself. There are 4 or 5 (maybe 6) connectors on the botton of the relay box. It looked straight forward from looking at the replacement box.
 
I think that this is the same issue that got me stranded this weekend. I have forwarded this thread to my mechanic. Thanks gents!
 
AZcruisers100and80 said:
I've been having the immobilizer issue with intermittent starting problems, but ALSO with the two VSC lights staying on on the dash. Have any of you experienced this...or know of any correlation between the immobilizer and the VSC lights. When the rig won't start, after cranking, all the other dash lights turn off EXCEPT the two VSC lights (and immobilizer light stays blinking).

I guess I'm wondering if the VSC lights point to some problem different from typical immobilizer problems. Or if that's normal for those 2 lights to stay on when the immobilizer won't let the vehicle start?

Here is the thread I just started about it:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...-both-vsc-lights-save-my-marraige-please.html
Click to expand...

I replaced all the blade type fuses in the underhood box last night. This morning I drove the Cruiser, let it sit for an hour, and it wouldn't start after sitting. I noticed the immobilizer light continuing to flash with the key on, and I also noticed the VSC lights on when I turned the key to the ON position. I think you have the same problem we have.

I replaced the brand new 20 amp EFI fuse underhood with my jumper, and the truck started. I'm going to do the same thing tonight after work - drive the truck, park it for an hour, and see if it starts with the jumper. Since the new fuse didn't fix the problem, I'm thinking I might have an internal problem with the fuse box, but I don't get why the jumper (instead of a fuse) will make it work. Frankly though, none of this makes a lot of sense, so I will probably order a new fuse box from CruiserDan - you don't happen to have a part number, do you Rhino?

More to follow.
 
We had a similar issue with my wife's 2000 L/C. Fought the problem for a year or so (and many calls to AAA). Finally took it to the local Toyota shop and had them diagnose and replace the fuse box. Issue resolved. If you are sometimes fixing it by swapping fuses, I would look seriously at the fuse box.
 
aedavis said:
I replaced all the blade type fuses in the underhood box last night. This morning I drove the Cruiser, let it sit for an hour, and it wouldn't start after sitting. I noticed the immobilizer light continuing to flash with the key on, and I also noticed the VSC lights on when I turned the key to the ON position. I think you have the same problem we have.

I replaced the brand new 20 amp EFI fuse underhood with my jumper, and the truck started. I'm going to do the same thing tonight after work - drive the truck, park it for an hour, and see if it starts with the jumper. Since the new fuse didn't fix the problem, I'm thinking I might have an internal problem with the fuse box, but I don't get why the jumper (instead of a fuse) will make it work. Frankly though, none of this makes a lot of sense, so I will probably order a new fuse box from CruiserDan - you don't happen to have a part number, do you Rhino?

More to follow.
Click to expand...

I would recommend you next try to disconnect and re-connect all the ECU connectors on the ECU (behind the glove box). Just removing and re-inserting the connectors serves to remove surface corrosion and improve the connections. Sounds like voltage drop somewhere, the question is just where... I would try all involved accessible connections.
Next time it won't start maybe just slap the top of the fuse box and try again, might help narrow down the location.

Also, are you battery connections and ground in good shape?

Good Luck
 
I got home from work, drove truck to gas station, filled up (with it idling), and drove home. Shut it down for an hour, restarted fine. Let it sit another hour, started fine. This is with a jumper in place of the EFI fuse under the hood.

I'm going to leave the jumper in and continue this for a few days and see if it acts up any more.
 
Just a follow up for anyone else having this problem:

I have been driving the 100 normally for a week or so now, with the jumper in place of the 20 Amp Fuse in the underhood fuse box.

It's been starting just fine - right now I'm going to just leave the jumper in and drive it, but I'm going to order a fuse box and have it ready to install if it craps out again.

Allan
 
Hundy stranded me again... Walked to have dinner. Hope it decides to start in an hour.
 
For the record, my scenario...where the two VSC lights would remain on whenever the immobilizer acted up....DID turn out to be the fuse. At first I had just swapped it with another 20 amp, which didn't fix it. but when I put a brand-new one in the slot, it did fix it.

Thanks all for your help. I will keep the new fuse box idea in my back pocket, but crossing my fingers that I won't have to do that. Do have a box of 20amp fuses in my center console though, just in case. Thanks again.
 
No such luck last night. Had to take a ford windstar cab home...

Went back this morning and it fired right up. Terrible feeling that my Hundy might keep me stranded for important meetings, flights, etc.

I will get a box of fuses today, jumper fuse and look into the fuse box.

Any way we can bypass or disable the immobilizer? There was a company in the UK who advertised just these more not just our rigs but for a whole slew of manufacturers...
 
HWY22, so sorry to hear you got stranded again. It's a terrible feeling...especially as you sit there and watch Dodge Rams, Mercedes and other terrible maintenance vehicles start up and drive away...or in your case, a Ford Windstar.

It sounds pathetic, but I have an emotional connection to the reliability of my Land Cruisers (my fzj80 has 231k and has never let me down anywhere...once started even after pack rats had chewed through 2 of the spark plug cables). I can't gripe to anyone else about it, but it's tough being let down by a Land Cruiser.

At any rate, keep me posted if a new relay box resolves your issue.
 
No issues since last post. This past weekend, went deep into the Upper Greys River Road (40+ miles) with my Hundy and a pack of 20 amp fuses. Zero failure.

However, everytime I insert my key, I held my breath... Never had any immobilizer issues until 252K.
Had the classic throttle body, 2000 tranny issue, starter issue and now this...

I am contacting alarm installers in Denver and SLC to see if they can bypass the factory immobilizer.

Will keep everyone posted. Best Regards.
 
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