Fitting 35's on a BJ74 (2 Viewers)

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Here some pics of mine on 35''s To get them to fit I run a 60 series rear diff and chopped front guards with front diff 15mm forward, they only rub on compression up front, need to chop more from guards.

Got a video too, really need to get my front locker in though!

100_0245.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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And how it sits with 33''s

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hey mate how does yours ride with the shackle angle that flat at the front.
 
no, you need a lift AND move the front axle ahead 1"

A suspension lift will make stuff all of no difference to end clearances. Will help with everyday clearance though. Cause once you flex to the bump stops you'll still end up in the same spot. Just with a lift you'll be less likely the be on the bump stops early. Lift will also help with other things though, ride, handling and clearance. As you can see in mine above the lift is minimal, but I have got clearance by adding 35mm extra offset per hub to get inner guard clearance in the rear arches and to keep the tyres off the front spring back when turning. A small body lift would help, or a front guard chop. I found I was rubbing on the front outer guards. Just chopped mine though.
 
a lift, did i say suspension lift?
you will need a lift and relocation of front axle.

i am not sure how long you have been around cruisers or modifying them...
 
a lift, did i say suspension lift?
you will need a lift and relocation of front axle.

i am not sure how long you have been around cruisers or modifying them...


No you didnt, you didnt clarify either way, canadian bum mentioned lift springs. Dont want to leave the poor bloke confused about the advice given, weather you were refering to a suspension or body lift. Trying to be clear on my opinions.

Whats my time around cruisers to do to with this clarification ?
 
you will rub the tires long before you hit the bump stops with 35s on a stock rig...
with a spring lift the springs have further to compress, the further the springs compress the futher the tires move away from the "middle" sheet metal and that changes the "end clearences...
you will realize this if you ever put small enough tires back on a lifted truck(so you can actually touch the bump stops) and flex so the axle touches the bumpstops. they do not line up on the pads the same...
 
you will rub the tires long before you hit the bump stops with 35s on a stock rig...
with a spring lift the springs have further to compress, the further the springs compress the futher the tires move away from the "middle" sheet metal and that changes the "end clearences...
you will realize this if you ever put small enough tires back on a lifted truck(so you can actually touch the bump stops) and flex so the axle touches the bumpstops. they do not line up on the pads the same...

I'm abit confused here, what is the "middle" sheet metal ? and how the axle lines up wit the bump stops? you got a pic to explain? is worth a thousand words
 
the springs flex forward ont he front and rearward on the back...so middle sheet metal is between the wheel openings.

the axles from factory when the springs are fully compressed against the rubber bump stops are centered on them. with a lift when fully compressed the axles how sit, when fully compressed, at the outter ledge, no longer centered - bump stop to axle flat reciever plate.
 
I have a slight problem. In preparation for the 35s i moved my axle forward the reccomended 25mm. Took it for a slight flex and the bolt and bracket that attaches to the middle steering arm hits the most rearward steering arm. It is only just fouling, so what do you think i should do? What do you think shaving the bolt of slightly untill it doesnt foul?

Here is a pic you can see where it is just hitting
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cool thanks for the quick reply.
When posting the pic i actually thought of that.... duh!
 
35's with axle reloacted 1inch forward and shackle lift with sagged springs. Back is going to be beefed up a bit. Guards are going to be chopped.
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I thought id post this in here to clear things up about the axle relocation in case anybody has the wrong idea about it. I drew it a while ago to help a follow member.
diffrelocation.jpg


And also to confirm about lift, yes you do need at least a 2inch lift to avoid scrubbing to fit 35's and axle relocation 1inch forward. If you only have 1 inch lift when both springs are compressed (as in a hard bump rather than the tyres flexing into the guards), the tyres hit the outer guards and start cutting the side walls.

This pic shows 2inch BL and 35's
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For some reason i feel better doing it this way. Your drilling the clamps rather than the actual linkage... its one of those "if it looks right then it probably is right"
 
each to thier own... i like drilling the springs
and in the end, they both look the same.
 

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