Fitting 35's on a BJ74

[Hulsty]

Hey mate,

They are standard offset 15'' cruiser rims. Unfortunately I cant use more offset on the front, i'm already running widened hubs (35mm per side) and if I run more offset i'll just hot more stuff upfront. Have already cut 2'' out of the guards and trimmed the body mounts to clear the tyres.

Down the rear is where I need extra offset, have already fitted rear 60 diff (35mm wider each side) and they still rub hard limiting flex. So pretty much i'm left with, wheel spacers on the rear or different offset rims front to rear. This though will then give me a vasty different track front to rear. Cant win sometimes

 

[SimonInAustralia]

Hey mate,

They are standard offset 15'' cruiser rims. Unfortunately I cant use more offset on the front, i'm already running widened hubs (35mm per side) and if I run more offset i'll just hot more stuff upfront. Have already cut 2'' out of the guards and trimmed the body mounts to clear the tyres.

Down the rear is where I need extra offset, have already fitted rear 60 diff (35mm wider each side) and they still rub hard limiting flex. So pretty much i'm left with, wheel spacers on the rear or different offset rims front to rear. This though will then give me a vasty different track front to rear. Cant win sometimes

Yes, you can't have everything, easily, or cheaply.

In past thinking about 38's on my troopy (+ snow chains), I came to the conclusion that the only way it was going to work would be full guard chopping and tubbing front and rear, along with extended bump stops and body lift, to give enough clearance. But without the skills to do the chopping and tubbing work myself, I just can't afford that sort of work at the moment, too many other mods to do first to toughen it up enough for my liking.

Oh well, the 38's might come eventually, just not for a fair while.

I'm sure you have considered body lifting and extended bump stops, or maybe an SOA conversion (which I can't do on my coil front 78 series either), for your situation, though I am surprised you are having so much trouble, as many others seem to run 35's, and larger, such as Harb's troopy with the 36x15.5's, seemingly without issues.

 

[JuanJ]

I want to move up from 305/70R16 (32.8x12") to 315/75R16 (34.6x12.4") next, which I think will need some chopping at the rear of the front guards.

[...]

Problem with chopping the guards is that I can't do it myself, and don't know anyone who could do it on the cheap for me, so it's going to be fairly expensive.

And if I do chop the guards, I'd like to go as far as possible, removing the outer guard lip, opening it up as far as possible, and fitting steel flares to cover the wider /wheels rubber and giving maximum clearance (for the 38's I'd like to step up to eventually.

Hello,

Looks like we have the same problem. I cannot chop my guards/fenders easily. I drew the same conclusion about the need for extensive modifications on the front suspension.

Some welding on the frame members you cannot avoid, some you can. Personally, the less welding, the better.

Hopefully there will be a way around.

Another dumb question: can a 4.11 differential handle 35's without being changed to, say, 4.88?




JuanJ

 

[NStimac]

So is there an issue drilling the OME springs? I have mine off and using a straight ruler it looks like the flat spot is large enough to accommodate a 1 inch shift. Has anyone done it? Is it recommended that I disassemble the leaves and drill each one or all at once? If you drill them individually how do u make sure everything lines up when assembled?

 

[likethewheel]

resurrecting an OLD thread...

I've got a set of 35x11.5x17" tires sitting around, plus a set of FJ Cruiser OEM steelies (17x7", 14mm offset). I'd like to mount them on my '93 HZJ75 troop carrier. I find the stock gearing plenty sufficient for the 33" tires I've been running, in fact I hardly ever use first gear when street driving. I've also already put in 3:1 low range gears so I feel good about how the 35s will work off-road as well. Please don't derail the thread with talk about gearing, etc., I really want to keep the focus on fitting 35" tires & what suspension mods are necessary.

Looking to do this cost effectively, with emphasis on the effectively part -- I do not want to impair performance or handling. All suspension components are currently stock and I don't want to invest money into aftermarket leaf springs because I have other plans for the long run and I don't want to spend more than I have to on a temporary solution. I've read in this thread and others about re-drilling the leaf spring pack to move the locating pin forward 25mm but I'd love feedback in regard to if the below list covers everything else I'll need to get these mounted or if I'm missing anything.

• 2" grease-able lift shackles (these will give me 1" of total lift, correct?)
• 3* caster plates (do I need these for the rear also, or just the front?)
• Poly leaf spring bushings f&r (stock ones are shot)
• 1.25" wheel spacers (is this the right size for the wheels I plan to use [7' wide with 14mm offset] or do I want something wider?)
• Steering stabilizer (figure I should replace the stock 30 year-old unit to support these big tires)
• Do I need extended bump stops if I'm only lifting a total of 1"? (Could use to replace the dried up stock ones anyway)

Thanks in advance!

 

[bj70bc]

Dont drill the leafs, drill the perch on the axel, its much easier, doesnt weaken the leafs and you dont have to disassemble the leaf pack to perform this, just undo the leafs from the axle and shove the diff housing out of the way.
You may need new center pins to accommodate the thickness of the shims though
hint.... drill the hole 1" rearward of the old hole on the diff as you are essential hopping the diff forward on the 'unmoving' leaf pack center pin.
i wouldnt bother with the bumps but youll have to asses if you need to adjust them
You probably dont need caster plates for the rear
If you get u bolt flip kits you get new bottom plates with the 3 holes already drilled so then your not having to drill the bottom and you get more clearance under the leafs and the ubolt nuts up and out of harms way, you also get 'more' shock travel as they locate the shock mount up 2" or so

 

[likethewheel]

Dont drill the leafs, drill the perch on the axel, its much easier, doesnt weaken the leafs and you dont have to disassemble the leaf pack to perform this, just undo the leafs from the axle and shove the diff housing out of the way.
You may need new center pins to accommodate the thickness of the shims though
hint.... drill the hole 1" rearward of the old hole on the diff as you are essential hopping the diff forward on the 'unmoving' leaf pack center pin.
i wouldnt bother with the bumps but youll have to asses if you need to adjust them
You probably dont need caster plates for the rear
If you get u bolt flip kits you get new bottom plates with the 3 holes already drilled so then your not having to drill the bottom and you get more clearance under the leafs and the ubolt nuts up and out of harms way, you also get 'more' shock travel as they locate the shock mount up 2" or so

Helpful advice – thank you! Is there a specific U-bolt flip kit that you like and would recommend? I meant to put you wants on the list anyway but I forgot. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[bj70bc]

4 plus brand ubolt flip kit

 

[coldtaco]

I'm pretty sure you will need at a minimum a 2" lift kit to fit 35", lots of people in Australia run 35" tires on their 70's with minimum mods except for lift springs.

 

[bj70bc]

i will be putting 1.25 spacers on mine in short order, just dont know if thats right for you and your offset/backspace

 

[bj70bc]

yes....what coldtaco said
or you could 'spring over axle' it and use the stock leafs.... but that is probably a whole other thread haha

if you look at my sig thats pretty much what you have to do to run 35's

 

[likethewheel]

I'm pretty sure you will need at a minimum a 2" lift kit to fit 35", lots of people in Australia run 35" tires on their 70's with minimum mods except for lift springs.

I’m not worried about that … contrary to popular belief, lift doesn’t affect tire clearance. Worst case I’d extend the bump stops a bit if needed to prevent fender contact at full bump but I don’t think it’ll hit regardless.

 

[likethewheel]

4 plus brand ubolt flip kit

this one, right? 60 series is the same as 70? 4PlusProducts | FJ60 | Suspension Parts | U-Bolt Flip Kits - http://www.4plusproducts.com/fj60uboltflipkits.html

 

[svsisu]

@likethewheel I have 17x7 steel rims (either 4Runner or FJ, but I can't remember, one is 7" the other is 7.5" wide) that have a back space of about 4.25", and 35x10.5 tires. I'm using 1" spacers but wish I had 1.25" ones. Also have OME greasable shackles and about a 2" lift. I've had to adjust the wheel stops out a bit to keep the tires from rubbing on the frame slightly at full lock. At some point I'm planning on getting 1.25 (or maybe even 1.5) spacers but it doesn't seem that important at this time. With 11.5" tires you might what to consider 1.5" spacers. Some photos of my current set up.

 

[bj70bc]

this one, right? 60 series is the same as 70? 4PlusProducts | FJ60 | Suspension Parts | U-Bolt Flip Kits - http://www.4plusproducts.com/fj60uboltflipkits.html

yes but you need to contact him and get two of the same side ones for the rear because of the shocks mounting infront and behind the axle tube
just tell him you have a 70 series,

btw i do have an extra rear kit if you need one

 

[likethewheel]

@likethewheel I have 17x7 steel rims (either 4Runner or FJ, but I can't remember, one is 7" the other is 7.5" wide) that have a back space of about 4.25", and 35x10.5 tires. I'm using 1" spacers but wish I had 1.25" ones. Also have OME greasable shackles and about a 2" lift. I've had to adjust the wheel stops out a bit to keep the tires from rubbing on the frame slightly at full lock. At some point I'm planning on getting 1.25 (or maybe even 1.5) spacers but it doesn't seem that important at this time. With 11.5" tires you might what to consider 1.5" spacers. Some photos of my current set up.

View attachment 3186386

View attachment 3186395

View attachment 3186396

Thanks for the info and pics. Your truck looks great! That's the exact stance I'm looking for. How do you like those Kendas? Those weren't available when I bought the Nitto 35x11.5 tires I have otherwise I might've gone with those.

 

[svsisu]

Thanks for the info and pics. Your truck looks great! That's the exact stance I'm looking for. How do you like those Kendas? Those weren't available when I bought the Nitto 35x11.5 tires I have otherwise I might've gone with those.

Thank you, it's definitely a work in progress. I like the Kenda's, they are quiet on the road and not so aggressive that they are a problem in soft sand. I was lucky and got them not long after they first came out; they were very affordable- about half the cost they are now. I have 4:1 tcase gears so need the 35s to help keep RPMs down at Hwy speeds. With the 35s, 10% underdrive from the tcase gears, and 4.11 diffs the 1hz turns about 2600 rpms at 70 mph.

@FJBen is running 285/75r17 (~34x11), 17x7.5 steelies with 1.5" spacers, and I think he has about a 2" lift. There's some good info, and nice photos in his thread.

Builds - 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”

You're already doing 90 man, c'mon! "Captain, the engines can't handle much more of this!" Lol 90 kilometers that’s like 21mph.

forum.ih8mud.com

I would like to have the 4plus flip kit, but I think there is interference with the factory cable lockers that I have. Seems like a very good modification.

 

[Blomdala]

@likethewheel I have 17x7 steel rims (either 4Runner or FJ, but I can't remember, one is 7" the other is 7.5" wide) that have a back space of about 4.25", and 35x10.5 tires. I'm using 1" spacers but wish I had 1.25" ones. Also have OME greasable shackles and about a 2" lift. I've had to adjust the wheel stops out a bit to keep the tires from rubbing on the frame slightly at full lock. At some point I'm planning on getting 1.25 (or maybe even 1.5) spacers but it doesn't seem that important at this time. With 11.5" tires you might what to consider 1.5" spacers. Some photos of my current set up.

View attachment 3186386

View attachment 3186395

View attachment 3186396

Hey can I ask, what gears are in your diffs? And how does it do for power? Mine is an auto with 4.10, but I have a lead on a good price for 35s so I’m just trying to gauge if it’s going to be a dog right out of the gates and need to factor in time and $ for gears along with it

 

[svsisu]

Hey can I ask, what gears are in your diffs? And how does it do for power? Mine is an auto with 4.10, but I have a lead on a good price for 35s so I’m just trying to gauge if it’s going to be a dog right out of the gates and need to factor in time and $ for gears along with it

I have the same (4.11), but also have 4:1 low range tcase gears that give a 10% under drive, with H55, so it's geared pretty low. Power is good with what I have, but I'm running the 35s to keep hwy rpms down. Turning about 2600 at 70mph. Really, I'd like to be on 33s, 255/85R16 or 285/75R17, that size seems perfect to me. I think the auto might be the main issue with you going up to those tires, but maybe not... Plenty of 5spd Hzj 70s with 5 speeds on 35s with out much issue. Spend the money on a new H55 instead of gears What size tires do you have now?

 

[Blomdala]

I have the same (4.11), but also have 4:1 low range tcase gears that give a 10% under drive, with H55, so it's geared pretty low. Power is good with what I have, but I'm running the 35s to keep hwy rpms down. Turning about 2600 at 70mph. Really, I'd like to be on 33s, 255/85R16 or 285/75R17, that size seems perfect to me. I think the auto might be the main issue with you going up to those tires, but maybe not... Plenty of 5spd Hzj 70s with 5 speeds on 35s with out much issue. Spend the money on a new H55 instead of gears What size tires do you have now?

Ahh ok so you are already basically in 4.56 gears. I’m on 285/70/17 right now, I’d be happy with 34s too. I’m definitely not opposed to an h55, but I couldn’t justify it unless the 442 takes a dump lol. I don’t have an issue with my 32.8” tires, but I do like a little more sidewall since I’m on 17s.

I’m on a limited budget with some needed updates so I’m just prioritizing . I don’t think 35s will be on the list yet unfortunately!