First Time Owner - 2000 LC 359k Miles (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
34
Location
Mississippi
I've always loved Land Cruisers and had been set on getting a FJ60/62 sometime next year. I ran across a local 100 series listed for $3.9k and originally had plans to flip it. After driving it for a few days I decided to take a gamble and make a 2000 LC with 358k miles my daily. This may be one of my worst decisions (only time will tell) but as a friend put it : "If making a high mileage cruiser your daily is the worst decision you've made, you're doing a hell of a lot better than most."

Here's the quick run down:
I'm the 3rd owner
Partial maintenance records included (I'd guess I have anywhere from 80-90% of them)
Body 7/10
Interior 7/10
Mechanical 9/10

One of the first things I did was buy a three-ring binder and plastic sheets to organize all of the maintenance records in. Here's a summary of what's been done outside of basic maintenance prior to my purchase:
  • Power steering flush, EFI/throttle body service, and engine drive belt @ 51k (dealership)
  • Front right axle flange was stripped out. Replaced flange and snap ring @ 136K (shop)
  • Front right axel flange, gasket, hub sub assembly, and shaft assembly replaced @ 155k (dealership)
  • Starter, intake manifold gasket, and brake job @ 220K (Firestone)
  • Front rotors and front right wheel bearings (inner and outer) replaced. Air induction hose came loose and was replaced @ 221k (dealership)
  • Engine light on. Lean run. Carbon build up. Fuel system cleaned and decarboned @ 223k (dealership)
  • Engine light on. Replaced all spark plugs and a/f sensors. No codes returned. @223k (dealership)
  • Engine light on. Intake gasket leak. Reinstalled @ 229k (dealership)
  • Rear brakes pads were eating into rotor. Replaced rear rotors, pads, and E-brake shoes @ 236k (dealership)
  • Radiator replaced @ 237k (shop)
  • Starter and flywheel replaced, front diff pinion seal and transmission tail shaft replaced, new transmission fluid, bleed and refilled coolant. @ 261k (dealership)
  • Fuel injection service completed @ 294k (dealership)
  • Advised that ball joints may need to be replaced soon. Minor leak at output shaft noted @ 308k (dealership)
  • Upper control arm and ball joints assembly replaced, lower ball joints replaced, inner wheel seals replaced, and Monroe front shocks installed @ 312k (shop)
  • Replaced alternator @ 316k (Firestone)
  • Replaced #1 coil pack, NGK spark plugs installed, flushed injector system @ 342k (shop)
My goals for the first year:
  • Change oil, p/s fluid, brake fluid, t/c/diff fluid & lube driveshaft/chassis (✔)
    • Cost: $418.50
  • T/B, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, & fan bracket (✔)
    • Cost: $1,224.03
  • Brass Heater T Mod (✔)
    • Cost: ~$5.00
  • Replace windshield
  • Pull dent from rear passenger side
  • Paint or vinyl wrap trim (color matched to factory trim color)
  • AGM Battery (✔)
  • Rear brakes (pulse coming from rear)
  • Tint windows (ceramic) (✔)
    • Cost: $301.95
  • Replace headlights
  • Remove running boards (✔)
    • Cost: ~$50 for tools
  • New tires (✔)
    • Cost: $592.00 + $109.14 to mount
  • Remove fenders (✔)
    • Cost: ~$5 for Goo Gone + ~$50 for touch-up paint
  • Learn how to do a lot of the work myself
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I had the entire vehicle tinted with 3M ceramic. There's 20% on the front two, the sides are 5% over factory, and the back glass has 20% over factory. I toyed with the idea of have a light layer of mirror tint put on the front glass in an attempt to make is similar to the factory tint. I ultimately decided against it. If I can find a high quality tint that would match it I'm going to have the front windows stripped, tint with mirror (maybe 40% or so) and then put a layer of 35% 3M ceramic over that. It'll probably make the front windows darker than was I really want but I'll feel better about it's appearance.
 
Did the timing belt / water pump include heater T,s ? I didn’t see em on preformed work. I’m hoping to get at least another 100k out of my 01
 
Did the timing belt / water pump include heater T,s ? I didn’t see em on preformed work. I’m hoping to get at least another 100k out of my 01

They didn't. Mechanic said they looked good. Maybe replaced at a previous time and I just don't have records for it? 🤷‍♂️
 
Did you use 3/4 t's? I was reading a post the other day about someone using them. 2 years, no problems. Have you had a similar experience?
 
I took the running boards off today, and while I was underneath I noticed what appears to be two bolts missing from the transfer case(?). See picture.

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Swapped out the heater t's today. The hot side broke but the cold was in great shape. I don't know when they were changed but definitely not originals. The hot side was a bit tricky to get out (probably took me 15 mins with it compared to 5 for the cold). I found that a small pair of channel locks worked better than needle nose pliers to get the clamps loose. Below are pictures of the OEM t's out and the 3/4 in brass ones installed with the LC running at operating temp. No leaks but I'm going to keep a close eye on them.

Here are two threads about using brass T's if anyone else is interested:
Heater T's failure - fixed with PEX t's
Don't get stranded...change out those t-connectors now

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This is the service schedule I'll be using for maintenance. I've completed it out to 500k miles (fingers crossed). It's essentially the factory schedule plus a few things (such as fuel filter every 50k, flushing brake and power steering every 100K). Feel free to offer any suggestions or critiques.
 

Attachments

  • Land Cruiser Service Schedule.pdf
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Looks good,

You off to a good start.

Congrats!

Also you can do wonders with an exacto knife, good straight edge and 3M vinyl off of Amazon.

After flare removal mine had some faded spots too, took care of it for under 30 bucks and about two hours of time.

This is the vinyl I used and comparison shot, it’s a great and easy update. I basically covered all the 1” wide sections on all the moulding.

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Sweet! I'm going to have to look into that. Also, what mud flaps are you using up front?

Looks good,

You off to a good start.

Congrats!

Also you can do wonders with an exacto knife, good straight edge and 3M vinyl off of Amazon.

After flare removal mine had some faded spots too, took care of it for under 30 bucks and about two hours of time.

This is the vinyl I used and comparison shot, it’s a great and easy update. I basically covered all the 1” wide sections on all the moulding.

View attachment 1953348

View attachment 1953355
 
I ordered touch up paint from Automotive Touch-up to fix where the fenders and running boards were rubbing. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take before and after pictures but I'll try to get pictures of the results and upload them soon. Here's some of my thoughts on it:
  1. I ordered the brush bottles (primer, base, and clear) and a base pen.
  2. I'm definitely not a painter. The brush bottles resulting in a wavy finish on flat, smooth areas (ie the doors/above the arch). From about 5ft away you can't tell but you can from about 2ft. I'll likely have these areas touched up by a professional body shop sometime soon.
  3. The clear coat makes the white touch-up paint (056) appear slightly yellow compared to the factory paint. Again, you can't tell from a distance (about 3ft in this case) but it is noticeable when you get about 1-2ft away.
  4. The pen is great, especially for rock strikes on the front.
  5. The brush is great for the edge of the doors and on the very bottom where the running board rubbed.
  6. I wouldn't recommend the brush bottles for areas any larger than a nickle, especially on smooth, flat panels (unless you have experience painting). The aerosol version would likely provide a smoother finish and is would I would have ordered looking back. However, for small chips and for places that are semi-hidden (door sills) this is a great solution to improved the appearance of your vehicle.
  7. They ship out of the New Orleans, LA area and take about 3 days to mix plus shipping time.
  8. Overall, fairly pleased with the product. Definitely a learning curve involved but with some practice I think most people would be able to achieve satisfactory results.
 

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