Don't get stranded...change out those t-connectors now

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R

rockcruiser915

Joined
Dec 27, 2015
Threads
3
Messages
78
Location
El Paso TX
Took the kids for some fun in the dirt this morning and as we pulled back onto pavement, I noticed the temperature gauge start to spike...then the check engine light flipped on. I quickly pulled over, popped the hood and found what looked like a radiator cap blew. Except the radiator cap was on and the fluid explosion (it looked like a geyser went off under the hood) wasn't near the radiator. It was next to the fire wall.

After a brief look, I found a t-connector had severed (there's two of them, one feeding the front heater and one for the rear). The plastic was completely corroded and failed. I spent 15 minutes (after allowing the rig to cool down of course) digging out corroded pieces of plastic from the inside of the two hoses (one leading from the engine block and the other into the firewall). I was paranoid that a piece of corroded plastic would lodge itself deep within the cooling line somewhere and cause serious, serious issues.

I called a buddy of mine and he was cool enough to bring me a 5/8" universal t-connector ($3.99 Autozone, Help 5/8 x 5/8 x 5/8 in. plastic universal T) and some 50/50 coolant. Took a few minutes...and then took a few more minutes after having to stop, release trapped air in the cooling line, and put more coolant...but I got the rig up and running again without any issues.

Couple of random thoughts: 1) You gotta change out those connectors. If it happened to me, its just a matter of time before it happens to you. I could've been out in the middle of nowhere with my wife and kids and this easily could've happened. 2) Be extra cautious not to allow fragments of plastic to get into your radiator line. Two sides of my corroded connecter were lodged within the hose and would only come out in fragments.

So that's it boys. Moral of the story is pretty clear. Many of our rigs are nearing two decades old...and let's face it, stuff wears out. Take a couple bucks and a few minutes of your life and change out those t-connectors. You'll be glad you did...
 
A sure way is if you see the plastic T still solid black , it's good. If the plastic T looks gray with it'll break any time.

Checked my Ts and one looks new, solid black and the other one looks gray/old so I changed it. As I was removing the clamp, pulling the hose off the T, it crumple into pieces. Disconnect the hose to dump out the remnant and reinstall-10min job with $7 mr T's T.
 
This is one of the number one maintenance items we stress about on this forum. From the FAQs: DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (13 pages long). Its not the end of the world if you lose a small piece of plastic down the heater hoses, but as you said, I prefer to remove them.

Glad you caught this and handled the situation before it grenades your engine!
 
bmw635 said:
A sure way is if you see the plastic T still solid black , it's good. If the plastic T looks gray with it'll break any time.

Checked my Ts and one looks new, solid black and the other one looks gray/old so I changed it. As I was removing the clamp, pulling the hose off the T, it crumple into pieces. Disconnect the hose to dump out the remnant and reinstall-10min job with $7 mr T's T.
Click to expand...

^^^^^^^ A discolored (usually brown or gray) heater Tee is indeed a forewarning. Usually the 'Hot Side' (drivers side Tee) is the first to go.

It is best to replace both. More and more...as this information is shared, it is becoming a better known and important maintenance item.

These engines are pretty much trouble free, enjoy a good reputation for longevity, but they do not like to be overheated.
 
I haven't changed mine yet was planning to in the next couple of weeks. Are they both 5/8 by 5/8 by 5/8? I would just as soon use stainless and never have to do it again.
 
No, they are not. Check the DIY link in DD's post above to get the correct specs.
 
SmoothLC said:
No, they are not. Check the DIY link in DD's post above to get the correct specs.
Click to expand...

Ok....so the specs are secret until I look them up. Thanks for helpful reply.
group+hug.webp
 
Jeepster09 said:
Ok....so the specs are secret until I look them up. Thanks for helpful reply.
View attachment 1437555
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They definitely are no secret, but in my case, I don't know them off the top of my head. Why should others do the research for you? :popcorn: I even linked the thread for ease of finding info. If everyone always asked for answers without doing research we would have a lot of unnecessary threads.

Edit: Took me two seconds to scroll through the last two pages, post #235. The straight through connectors are 5/8" and the tee is 1/2".
 
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It appears you are incorrect. After searching and not getting a definitive answer it appears that they are 5/8x5/8 by a little smaller on the center, not bigger as in 3/4"s. Thanks anyway....that's why searches aren't always the easiest. As long as someone is responding if you know just say so, if you don't, don't respond. I'll extend my group hug....
group+hug.webp
 
Jeepster09 said:
It appears you are incorrect. After searching and not getting a definitive answer it appears that they are 5/8x5/8 by a little smaller on the center, not bigger as in 3/4"s. Thanks anyway....that's why searches aren't always the easiest. As long as someone is responding if you know just say so, if you don't, don't respond. I'll extend my group hug....View attachment 1437565
Click to expand...
Just shows you why you should do the research yourself. I even referenced the post I found the info in, so my bad. Everyone on this forum is on here by choice and most are here to help. No reason to be sarcastic or call out people for not helping in the way you seem is right. Post edited above with correct info. Again, 5/8" straight through, 1/2" tee. 5/8" all around will work.
 
Not being sarcastic...just saying why respond by saying do a search? Usually questions are asked after doing search if answer not found. It is irating to see answer without it being an answer. As you can see my search has different answer than your search.

POST 59

T's were the ones specified on Mud in the various threads. 5/8 all around. The junction (bottom) hoses are a slightly different size, but I managed to get it still snugged up on the fitting, just not quite as far up as the other 2. With a good sturdy worm hose clamp, I don't have any doubts that it'll work fine and be leak free.

I tried to find the Brass T's locally, but even the specialized plumber stores didn't have them in 5/8. Definitely a no go at the home depot, lowes etc. The brass t's showed up on the website, but were discontinued when I had them check at the store locations.
 
This is by far one of the more friendly forums out there. I used to belong to a Nissan Frontier forum and those guys crucified you over petty things. I gotta say, when the link is right there for ya ................ ya kind of have to be your own advocate. Lots of helpful people on here.

Now group hug! LOL
 
Two must haves for anybody buying a 100 series are new heater tees and gas.
 
I replaced mine recently. They were original and still in good shape after 16 years and 132k, in the desert. I believe they were original because the clamps were all oriented in the worst possible position. I went with OE plastic from the dealer, around $10 each. I didn't see a need to go with permanent metal when the plastic lasts so long and the hoses in which they reside are not permanent. Btw, reorienting the clamps was about 80-90 percent of the job. Piece of cake once you get the clamps in the right position.
 
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