- Thread starter
- #21
Yes, and that's for a diesel...24v, no? Is it the same switch for a 12v gasser?
First time AC rebuild/convert, need some advice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Skniper
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- Thread starter
- #22
Ahhh....you pictured two switches....one for the diesel and one for the gasser. Gotcha! Didn't notice that before.
So next question....is the fj60 switch the same as the fj62 switch?
So next question....is the fj60 switch the same as the fj62 switch?
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Yup, same part number.
- Thread starter
- #24
Just figured out how to jump the AC to check clutch function.....by a little trial and error. Two wires are obvious on top of the compressor. A chunk of spare wire from the positive battery post to the wire leads is all you need.
Yes...but....the one attached with the screw on top is NOT the positive lead....the sparks told me that. A more intelligent person would have noticed that a wire attached to the outer metallic shell of a body would be a ground... ya'think, dumbass?
Anyway, found the compressor's positive lead white connector heading towards the pass. fender. Without the motor running jumped this connector and heard the compressor click. With motor running and AC fan and switch "ON" the compressor clutch did, in fact, spin. So that's good news I guess. No change in air vent temperature though (predictable).
Question: When the comp clutch engaged there was no discernible engine idle up. Why is that? Is there something else that triggers engine idle up other than clutch engagement?
Yes...but....the one attached with the screw on top is NOT the positive lead....the sparks told me that. A more intelligent person would have noticed that a wire attached to the outer metallic shell of a body would be a ground... ya'think, dumbass?
Anyway, found the compressor's positive lead white connector heading towards the pass. fender. Without the motor running jumped this connector and heard the compressor click. With motor running and AC fan and switch "ON" the compressor clutch did, in fact, spin. So that's good news I guess. No change in air vent temperature though (predictable).
Question: When the comp clutch engaged there was no discernible engine idle up. Why is that? Is there something else that triggers engine idle up other than clutch engagement?
There should be a vacuum switch (VSV) on the driver's side fender, it is connected to the idle up actuator on your carb. Check to see that it's in place and the vacuum lines connected. There is also an electrical connection to it as well. It is controlled by the AC switch and AC amplifier under the dash.
The FSM shows these components and how to test if they are functioning. Go through them step by step to ensure they are functioning properly.
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- #26
Thanks, but it's a 3FE...no carb. I'm sure same principles apply. I'll run thru the FSM.
Sorry, didn't see you had a 62. SOR catalog shows the AC idle up parts are the same, and my FSM just says 60 series, so testing them should be the same. I guess the actuator attaches to the throttle body somewhere on the 62 instead of the carb linkage on the 60.
Item 60 below is the VSV and that is the idle up vacuum circuit.
- Thread starter
- #28
Wow, so...yea, started this thread a year and three months ago...wtf? Two things, first, nobody likes threads that just dead end into nothing, and second, I'm STILL working my way through this AC rebuild.
So not long after I gathered all the parts needed for this system refresh, a guy named Harvey blew into town and put everyone's lives on hold for a good long while around here...mix in the usual business of kids sports, work, holidays, work, work , and life in general and even things like AC get put on the back burner. And it is humid and hot AF here!
Time for an update, and most of my rebuild mirrors what other have posted, but what the hell, at least it adds to the content for future reference.
I started with the evaporator box tear down and refresh. Relatively straitforward procedure, just an awkward spot to work. What really made all the difference in the world was removing the lower floor vent assm that sits on the trans hump. Felt like I was about to break some sh*t forcing the evap box past that vent on the way out. Removed the vent before reinstall and it was a breeze going back in.
Like many before me, the evap box was full of crap and disgusting...like a very well prepared chipmunk was living in there. "Winter is coming!"
Before pics:
Barf !!
How does air get through that?...
So not long after I gathered all the parts needed for this system refresh, a guy named Harvey blew into town and put everyone's lives on hold for a good long while around here...mix in the usual business of kids sports, work, holidays, work, work , and life in general and even things like AC get put on the back burner. And it is humid and hot AF here!
Time for an update, and most of my rebuild mirrors what other have posted, but what the hell, at least it adds to the content for future reference.
I started with the evaporator box tear down and refresh. Relatively straitforward procedure, just an awkward spot to work. What really made all the difference in the world was removing the lower floor vent assm that sits on the trans hump. Felt like I was about to break some sh*t forcing the evap box past that vent on the way out. Removed the vent before reinstall and it was a breeze going back in.
Like many before me, the evap box was full of crap and disgusting...like a very well prepared chipmunk was living in there. "Winter is coming!"
Before pics:
Barf !!
How does air get through that?...
- Thread starter
- #29
Gave everything a good cleaning and reassembled with all new bits. I sourced from Coolstream the evap core, expansion valve, drier, and green o-ring kit. Replaced the switch with new Toyota OEM 'while I was all up in there' already.
Lots of good info on these parts mentioned above from @Aloha Jen and @red66toy
Sourced the foam stripping from Home Depot (maybe Lowe's), think it was HD.
Fresh bits...
Foam stripping, wide enough to recreate the OEM split pattern, very pliable and conforming:
All buttoned up and cleaned, notice the lower floor vent behind the shifter is out, made a HUGE difference for me. My foam edges ended up a little ragged, definitely needed a sharper utility blade for this, still fit and sealed great....
Lots of good info on these parts mentioned above from @Aloha Jen and @red66toy
Sourced the foam stripping from Home Depot (maybe Lowe's), think it was HD.
Fresh bits...
Foam stripping, wide enough to recreate the OEM split pattern, very pliable and conforming:
All buttoned up and cleaned, notice the lower floor vent behind the shifter is out, made a HUGE difference for me. My foam edges ended up a little ragged, definitely needed a sharper utility blade for this, still fit and sealed great....
- Thread starter
- #30
Another slight delay in the AC rebuild process was mixing in a front motor tear down for new radiator, water pump, belts, hoses, new PS pump from @Racer65, new idler pulleys and bearings, and a massive degreasing and clean up, and repaint of all assorted brackets.
The compressor needed a major cleaning (more on this later). This silver thing was completely black with grime, took awhile to uncover the 'silver lining'.
The compressor needed a major cleaning (more on this later). This silver thing was completely black with grime, took awhile to uncover the 'silver lining'.
- Thread starter
- #31
Replaced every single o-ring in the system with the green o-ring kit and pag46 oil.
Except for this fitting at the condensor, I finally got it to move then within a 1/4 turn it grinded to a stop like it was stripping. Pretty sure the different metals involved corroded each other and the aluminum was losing that battle. Dousing it with a combo of penetrating oil and compressor oil made no difference. Tightened it back down with fingers crossed. It passed the pressure test performed today, so far.
Except for this fitting at the condensor, I finally got it to move then within a 1/4 turn it grinded to a stop like it was stripping. Pretty sure the different metals involved corroded each other and the aluminum was losing that battle. Dousing it with a combo of penetrating oil and compressor oil made no difference. Tightened it back down with fingers crossed. It passed the pressure test performed today, so far.
- Thread starter
- #32
Finally got everything buttoned up, adjusted, sealed, and all good. Took it in to the AC guy today to leak test and fill the system.
This AC guy was recommended by the local Mud cruiser club. Older guy, one man operation, old school but scientific approach to what he does. His shop is awesome! He does a lot of fab work, hose building, machine work, has every tool and machine needed to do anything. He let me hang out most the day and watch him work and chat. He likes to fish, and his boat in the shop has lots of homemade fabbed goodness on it. Nice old guy.
I gave him the run down on all the work I had done, except for swapping in r134 fittings. He said no big deal, didn't like where the fittings on the compressor are anyway, so we pull the OEM hoses out, and says lets do this right.
Completely rebuilt the AC hoses, cut off the original fittings, drilled and welded/brazed on new fittings very conveniently accessible at the firewall. Really cool to watch him make the new barb fittings with the old attachments, weld them up and use the crimper machine.
This AC guy was recommended by the local Mud cruiser club. Older guy, one man operation, old school but scientific approach to what he does. His shop is awesome! He does a lot of fab work, hose building, machine work, has every tool and machine needed to do anything. He let me hang out most the day and watch him work and chat. He likes to fish, and his boat in the shop has lots of homemade fabbed goodness on it. Nice old guy.
I gave him the run down on all the work I had done, except for swapping in r134 fittings. He said no big deal, didn't like where the fittings on the compressor are anyway, so we pull the OEM hoses out, and says lets do this right.
Completely rebuilt the AC hoses, cut off the original fittings, drilled and welded/brazed on new fittings very conveniently accessible at the firewall. Really cool to watch him make the new barb fittings with the old attachments, weld them up and use the crimper machine.
- Thread starter
- #33
So the AC guy (John) explains to me his methods for leak testing a system, etc... He's written technical journal articles on this stuff, really interesting stuff, loses me a little, and explains that most techs out there don't really understand leak testing, pressures, gases, etc...he wasn't being a know it all, just really knows his sh*t, interesting guy.
Gases up the system and EUREKA!! Cold air in the vents for the first time in a looooong time. All good until I notice clear oil pissing all over the shop floor. The compressor has given up.
While I was cleaning all the black crap off the compressor earlier I suspected that maybe it had leaked all its oil out awhile back and coated that whole side of the engine bay. I almost ordered a new one when the front of the motor was torn down. Talked myself out of it...should've gone with my gut. Oh well, at least everything is nice and clean to work on in there now.
Calling Coolstream in the morning to see if they have the right Denso available.
Gases up the system and EUREKA!! Cold air in the vents for the first time in a looooong time. All good until I notice clear oil pissing all over the shop floor. The compressor has given up.
While I was cleaning all the black crap off the compressor earlier I suspected that maybe it had leaked all its oil out awhile back and coated that whole side of the engine bay. I almost ordered a new one when the front of the motor was torn down. Talked myself out of it...should've gone with my gut. Oh well, at least everything is nice and clean to work on in there now.
Calling Coolstream in the morning to see if they have the right Denso available.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Good to read all this. I’d pulled mine over a year ago and have pondered putting it back in. I never ran the AC so I have no idea if it’s good but that black greasy mess on the fender and all over the compressor I’ll guess now is an indication it’s crap.
What I find interesting is the folks who stay w/ 12 to those who swap to 134.
What’s the reasoning behind the two different groups?
What I find interesting is the folks who stay w/ 12 to those who swap to 134.
What’s the reasoning behind the two different groups?
For me it was an easy decision to go to r134 because it is nearly impossible to find r12 on my small island. Plus, if you are doing the work yourself or at home, it is much easier and cheaper to get the small r134 cans to test the system and refill with the free loaner gauges from the parts store. At least that has been my experience here in Hawaii.
- Thread starter
- #36
I guess some people stick with r12 because it’s what was in there, and technically a better coolant, despite the fact that it may be harder to find and more expensive. It’s less work.
R134 requires new fittings, o rings, and different oil, need to clean out the old stuff first.
My whole system was torn down so I decided to go r134 because it’s what the shops use and easier in the long run.
Hoping I get good results at the vents.
I gotta buy me a compressor today.
R134 requires new fittings, o rings, and different oil, need to clean out the old stuff first.
My whole system was torn down so I decided to go r134 because it’s what the shops use and easier in the long run.
Hoping I get good results at the vents.
I gotta buy me a compressor today.
