did you not have room to run the exhaust inside the frame rail?
Builds First LC, HZJ77 Build "Kengo" (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Blomdala
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
In the front, no because of my vacuum actuated transfer, and in the rear no because of my gas tank location due to the extra little storage tank in my cargo area. Is yours inside the frame rail?? The other 77s I saw with new exhaust routed the same as mine so I thought it was normal haha
when I was doing the HD-FT into a LJ-78 I ran the exhaust inside the frame rail. I was using the 80 series transfer/transmission so no vacuum actuator. I didn't know if the 77 had the vacuum actuator so that would prevent you from running the exhaust inside the frame. My 85 ute does not have the vacuum actuator transfer case, plus the exhaust on the 2H/12HT is on the left side so I was able to run the exhaust inside the frame rail.
They look good!
Although initially a tight fit, you will find that the front upper covers will settle in over time.
- Thread starter
- #105
The truck has been driving good so far, gears 1-3 feel great, 4th gear drops enough RPM I fall out of boost and it’s back to normal until I hit about 95kph. Looks like max boost (13psi) happens around 1900rpm. Hoping I can get that down a bit as all I have done is adjust the fuel screw. I also need another 100rpm in my idle speed.
This week I started working on my “tow package” it was nice to finally meet @joekatana and pick up a used hitch from him to start with. I’ve finished up the exterior part, and in the next few days I’ll finish up my interior wiring and share that.
Nice hitch, but looking for less scorpion action.
My main reason to French into this was to keep my receiver a little higher. I knew the bar would be hanging below the bumper so I wanted to keep that to a minimum.
This week I started working on my “tow package” it was nice to finally meet @joekatana and pick up a used hitch from him to start with. I’ve finished up the exterior part, and in the next few days I’ll finish up my interior wiring and share that.
My main reason to French into this was to keep my receiver a little higher. I knew the bar would be hanging below the bumper so I wanted to keep that to a minimum.
- Thread starter
- #106
Burned into place
almost like it’s supposed to be there!
Using the old plates (cut to fit and cut a hole for safety chains) I added some extra bracing.
And ready for test fit!
Using the old plates (cut to fit and cut a hole for safety chains) I added some extra bracing.
And ready for test fit!
- Thread starter
- #107
I couldn’t get both sides high enough, so I figured I needed to remove the part of the step that covers the frame (earlier I just drilled holes where the nuts are and was planning to go that route).
So thankful for oscillating saws
unfortunately the mount was just too tall, by like 1/8 inch!!! So I cut it off, mounted the hitch, then removed some material and welded it back in place.
unfortunately the mount was just too tall, by like 1/8 inch!!! So I cut it off, mounted the hitch, then removed some material and welded it back in place.
- Thread starter
- #108
Last up was mounting the 7 pin. I didn’t want it hanging below, but there is not much room to stuff it in there. I ended up cutting the case and center terminal, filling the back with liquid electrical tape, and getting it barely short enough to attach to the edge of the brace.
overall, I’m really happy with how it turned out. Not too much hanging out, but a nice beefy hitch. Original rating was for 3500kg! My tent trailer is only 2000lbs, so this should do nicely.
overall, I’m really happy with how it turned out. Not too much hanging out, but a nice beefy hitch. Original rating was for 3500kg! My tent trailer is only 2000lbs, so this should do nicely.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Nice work on the hitch; beautiful beads. Just curious why you didn't just buy a ball pintle for the factory tow point? It would easily handle 2000 lbs. Maybe it would be too high?
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- #110
Thank you!
I went back and forth, from 80s forums to 70s reading all about everyone’s experiences and opinions on the NATO mount spot. I think that there were just a few too many mentioning that it was too thin for towing (with no load amount in reference) and the hitch was only 10 mi away from my house that it made me feel better ha. I’ll have the trailer and my kids in the car so I’m ok over doing it a bit to have piece of mind. Plus now if I end up needing to move around something heavier, I feel confident about that.
I also had to have another project to justify my welder purchase
maybe that should be my main reason HA!
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
It looks good. FWIW, I have a Holland ball pintle on my 80 and have towed a UHaul 6x12 tandem axle enclosed trailer several hundred miles fully loaded at least 6 times with zero I’ll effects. That trailer is 1950 lbs empty and I know I have put 2000+ in it.
I know there are a bunch of naysayers on the 80 forum but it’s the only hitch point used in most of the world.
I know there are a bunch of naysayers on the 80 forum but it’s the only hitch point used in most of the world.
- Thread starter
- #112
I appreciate it! That is really great to hear! Maybe I'll try it out if this one ends up hanging too low, you are right though that is seems for 80s is the go to point for a hitch. I wonder what the frame construction differences are like between the 2? Do you use pintle with a ball on it?
I wish I had taken better photos but this was my setup.
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- #114
That is nice! Was it a separate hitch or was that part of your custom rear bumper?
It was incorporated into the bumper in some fashion but I don’t remember how and I foolishly didn’t take any photos.
Rob Smith built the bumper so perhaps he took some photos. 
- Thread starter
- #118
Hey Thank you! I was just about to attach mine like that but I figured Id try and tuck it a little higher!
Yep, I totally get you. Not about to change mine since it's in and it doesn't bother me, but your version is very nice!
- Thread starter
- #120
Alrighty, I have some updates for a few different aspects, but I getting backed up with to do’s is slowing down my sharing ha. So I’ll try to add some over the next few days.
First up is the electrical to go with my hitch. I bought a prodigy P3 (because I didn’t know redarc sells a 24v controller) so between that and my 12v trailer brakes, I had a couple items needing 12v.
I ran 5 wires from the front to the rear to take care of all that.
- 24v+ (relay controlled ) to the DCDC stepdown
- (-) from DCDC to P3
- (+) from DCDC to P3
- brake signal to P3( from relay board, 12v)
- brake control to trailer
luckily they just barley fit in there with the loom under the carpet so it doesn’t look so janky
for my relay, because my original plan of using my leftover 80 series light converter fell through when the plug under the back door turned out to not be for a trailer adapter even though it’s the same plug, I went with a relay only control. It uses 4 24v DC relays which control each of the 4 wires for lights on the trailer. I found diagrams for 3 relay 3 wire to 2 wire trailer light converters and it looked like the perfect solutions as I needed relays anyways to get 12v. I also has a huge voltage drop (2v) using the Toyota non powered brake controller which was cuaong
also I have a 30 amp DCDC converter. My trailer brakes + controller should be less than 20 so I think I’ll be good with it, but time will tell.
After a quick test, everything is working great so far! hoping to get the trailer out next weekend for a quick camping trip
Plug under rear, 80 series brake controller plugs right in, but none of them are light related.
First up is the electrical to go with my hitch. I bought a prodigy P3 (because I didn’t know redarc sells a 24v controller) so between that and my 12v trailer brakes, I had a couple items needing 12v.
I ran 5 wires from the front to the rear to take care of all that.
- 24v+ (relay controlled ) to the DCDC stepdown
- (-) from DCDC to P3
- (+) from DCDC to P3
- brake signal to P3( from relay board, 12v)
- brake control to trailer
luckily they just barley fit in there with the loom under the carpet so it doesn’t look so janky
for my relay, because my original plan of using my leftover 80 series light converter fell through when the plug under the back door turned out to not be for a trailer adapter even though it’s the same plug, I went with a relay only control. It uses 4 24v DC relays which control each of the 4 wires for lights on the trailer. I found diagrams for 3 relay 3 wire to 2 wire trailer light converters and it looked like the perfect solutions as I needed relays anyways to get 12v. I also has a huge voltage drop (2v) using the Toyota non powered brake controller which was cuaong
also I have a 30 amp DCDC converter. My trailer brakes + controller should be less than 20 so I think I’ll be good with it, but time will tell.
After a quick test, everything is working great so far! hoping to get the trailer out next weekend for a quick camping trip
Plug under rear, 80 series brake controller plugs right in, but none of them are light related.
