First FJ60, is there a 12 step program? (1 Viewer)

[Spudman]

Hey mate

Just read your thread, nice vehicle and informative, how did you go with the rust in the pillar there.

I always start by sanding first so you can actually see how big the problem is going to be.

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Jim and Trapper - not the news I wanted to hear but so be it. I've had the tank recall done unfortunately.

Sounds like I'll be doing this stuff. Good times...

 

[vszUnclear]

Spudman - haven't tackled the pillar yet. I did a little grinding just to get under the paint but it's been cold lately and I want to wait until warmer weather before I start major body work. I'm frankly intimidated by that pillar...

BTW, your thread is one that I reference a lot for rust repair (sweet turbo diesel, btw). Please keep posting - really helps those of us just learning the ropes. I wish I had as many donor vehicles laying around

Cheers!

 

[vszUnclear]

Still working on my low power/rough idle problem. I think I've ruled out rust in my tank - I dissected my filter and no rust particles. I guess it was wishful thinking that replacing the filter improved things, b/c I'm still having the symptoms.

I've read all the posts I could find on 2F rough idle, low power.
My symptoms are:
- rough idle (doesn't die at 700rpm but the whole truck shakes during idle)
- low power under load (like going up a hill)
- Giving throttle produces an unfamiliar muffled sound
- exhaust pipe emits in rapid bursts (puff-puff-puff-puff) instead of a constant stream
- poor gas mileage

Suspect list:
- Re-torque manifold, check for intake leaks with carb cleaner (since recently replaced mani gasket)
- adjust carb using lean drop
- adjust timing (just replaced dissy with recurved so I may not have set it up right)

Any other suggestions? Hopefully I'm on the right track.

 

[vszUnclear]

Leaking air rail plug (furthest back) ... Oil gushing out and air bubbling. Off to get a hex ratchet set.

I remember Jim C recommending seating air rail plugs dry but I'm tempted to use some exhaust gasket sealer. Bad idea?

 

[dirtEJohnson]

I would highly recommend confirming ignition sequence and timing. Also double check spark plug condition because it sounds like you are describing engine misfire IMHO.

 

[micruz60]

Valve lash adjustment + ^^^ what he said. Dunno about sealant on air rail. Would not want material into cylinders. Do you have emissions restrictions in WA?

Also have you done a compression test on cylinders? Could indicate why low power under load...

 

[vszUnclear]

Thank you dirtEJohnson and micruz60 for pointing me toward ignition. Turns out I had a bad spark wire on #3! Replaced plugs with Denso 6716186 set. She is back to full power now. I probably need to re-tune the carb but I can finally get up hills like I used to.

I also properly seated the air rail plugs (dry), which were all a good 2-3 threads from seated. Newb lesson learned: don't work on truck with left over allen/hex keys from Ikea. Ratchet hex set gave me enough torque to seat them all the way.

 

[vszUnclear]

Last week, my pass side TRE ball joint popped out while driving (which was fun) so I couldn't put it off any longer and I bought Kurt's Japanese 555 TREs. Very nice working with Kurt and the TREs were pretty straightforward to install after getting the rod threads loosened (propane torch + monkey wrench). Reassembled using lots of thread sealant.

For anyone else installing these, I learned the hard way that they are pre-greased. Adding more can cause the boots to fail. Hopefully mine will be OK.

Les Schwab did an "alignment" a few weeks ago. Well, I'm doubtful that they did it correctly (if at all) since the threads on the TR were super crusty and stuck...

It strikes me that the ball joints are very close to the wheel backplates. But looking at images here on mud seems to be correct.

Still working on:
- stumble issue at low RPMs in 1st. Especially up hill. Reading all the threads and trying various things. Thinking of rebuilding my carb.
- my rig is vibrating like crazy at idle lately. Not sure if my timing needs adjusting again, or...?

 

[vszUnclear]

This can't be right

So... this can't be right. Today I noticed both of my new TREs are rubbing against the inner wheels. See the pics attached.

I'm guessing I need to thread the TREs a bit more to give room between wheel and rubber boots.

But, the knuckle arm is a heavy solid piece which won't move. It seems to be aligning my TREs too close to the wheel. Is it bent? This rig had a front end collision in the past...

Anyone experienced with front ends have an opinion on the right fix here?

 

[Spudman]

Are they original wheels or are they aftermarket, a set of wheel spacers will fix that, won't it?

 

[gregnash]

Looks like you may need spacers for your wheels. Depending on what their offset/backspacing is that might be causing the rub. Spud - he is running aftermarket wheels, look like 15x10 Eagle Alloy 058 from the pics and stance.

Also, how did things go on your rust replacement for the fender? Have you gotten a welder yet? I finally went and grabbed a full welding gas tank and played with my spare tailgate to test out welding on the thin sheet metal. Definitely only need a couple seconds when spot welding at that thin a metal. Now I just need to pick up more tiger paws, as I have quite a bit to replace but have spare wheel wells to replace it with.

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Spudman and Greg,
yep, 1/4th inch wheel spacers did the trick. I have less threads holding my lug nuts now but it seems stable. Easy fix!

Greg, haven't done much rust repair yet.. I've been tracking down an intake leak and finally found it. I did buy a cheapie welder so it's coming. Looking forward to hearing about your experiences.

Cheers guys.

 

[Spudman]

Thanks Spuds and Greg,
yep, 1/4th inch wheel spacers did the trick. I have less threads holding my lug nuts now but it seems stabile. Easy fix!

Greg, haven't done much rust repair yet.. I've been tracking down an intake leak and finally found it. I did buy a cheapie welder so it's coming. Looking forward to hearing about your experiences.

Cheers guys.

Good to hear you fixed the wheel problem.

With the rust repair, when you start be fully committed to continue no matter what you find,cog with confidence and you'll be right

Spudman

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Spudman. Your thread is inspirational

This weekend I am rebuilding my carb... Took the plunge after watching a bunch of Pinhead's videos. Pics to come!

 

[Pappa Bear]

Step 1: Admit you have a problem.



Welcome to the program.

 

[vszUnclear]

A couple of weeks ago I took the plunge and rebuilt my Aisan carb using the Keyster carb kit from Kurt. I've attached some pics of the process. I watched Pinhead's videos, which were a great help. I even re-assembled in the kitchen, Pinhead style

Turns out my secondary wasn't holding vac so I replaced that too using a Napa diaphragm.

Really fun process. The hardest part was getting the main jets out and putting the little retaining clip back down the AP hole on top of the BB, but it helped to have forceps like Pinhead suggests. I soaked my parts over the course of a week since the Berryman's can was too small to fit everything at the same time. I didn't soak my diaphragms though - I would assume they contain rubber/plastic internals... so they aren't shiny.

Engine is running really well now. Was hoping this would solve my off-idle problem but that's still a mystery.

 

[vszUnclear]

I've been chasing a leak that turned out to be HG in this thread. Now that I have the head back from the machine shop I'm moving progress updates to this "build thread".

Pics of the shiny rebuilt head below:
- surfaces milled, magnafluxed, steam cleaned (no cracks found)
- new SS valves, new springs
- threads chased
- painted cummins beige, has that 80s feel to it

Putting this thing back on tomorrow... Should be fun!
Tips and pointers are more than welcomed.

 

[FJ40Jim]

On the carb, the AC idle up is flopped around the wrong side of the throttle shaft. remove the little clip where it attaches to the vac can, then rotate arm around on the throttle shaft so the pull rod is above the throttle shaft and reattach to AC vac can.

In exchange for that freebie, please post the current part number for the NAPA secondary diaphragm.
I thought they were totally NLA, but maybe there is a new PN?

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Jim! I did notice that AC idle arm was wrong when I went to put it back on (after this pic was taken) so that's already been fixed.

Napa secondary diaphragm: CRB 24093
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ry-Throttle-Diaphragm/_/R-CRB24093_0064850495
$12.15 and "in stock" at my local Napa.

BTW, is it safe to carb dip the other diaphragms (AC idle, choke, etc)?