First drive
- Thread starter Bambi Girl
- Start date
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Thanks Peter!
I love the BOSS air bags on my 40, but haven't tried to tow with my 40 and doubt I will... But, always good to have information.
Hope you don't have to drop your aux tank... Hopefully, it's just a loose connection.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #23
Hi pngunme
I need Rudy here for a while to sort out the wire problem.
Wonder if Rudi feels like a down under holiday?
Goes like this.
Plug in the trailer plug . The trailer is all LED . The rear fuel gauge stopped working . Next the forty would not run the LED lights .an adapter from Ford 12 pin male to 12 pin female and the LED lights work but still no fuel gauge.
Next the voltage gauge that had been happy on 13 . 9 volts for the drive down now wants to sit at plus 15 volt.
For the drive back I had to run with the head lights on.
I feel it has to be a 12 volt ground problem.
Nat and I are on holiday ( without the forty it does not make much sense really ) so I will play with it next week on my return.
Some more of my build photos.
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
I need Rudy here for a while to sort out the wire problem.
Wonder if Rudi feels like a down under holiday?
Goes like this.
Plug in the trailer plug . The trailer is all LED . The rear fuel gauge stopped working . Next the forty would not run the LED lights .an adapter from Ford 12 pin male to 12 pin female and the LED lights work but still no fuel gauge.
Next the voltage gauge that had been happy on 13 . 9 volts for the drive down now wants to sit at plus 15 volt.
For the drive back I had to run with the head lights on.
I feel it has to be a 12 volt ground problem.
Nat and I are on holiday ( without the forty it does not make much sense really ) so I will play with it next week on my return.
Some more of my build photos.
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
Peter,
Call me Danny, please.
It's a beautiful creation that you have built!!
I wish I could help you short out your wiring issues, but I don't understand it well enough to troubleshoot it from afar.
You really do need Rudi (@bj40green)... He can work it from Costa Rica, as long as you can explain it. I'm sure he's out there somewhere...
You know how those superheroes like to lurk in the shadows, until they are needed
Rudi, Peter will need your magic, when he returns to his 40 next week.
Call me Danny, please.
It's a beautiful creation that you have built!!
I wish I could help you short out your wiring issues, but I don't understand it well enough to troubleshoot it from afar.
You really do need Rudi (@bj40green)... He can work it from Costa Rica, as long as you can explain it. I'm sure he's out there somewhere...
You know how those superheroes like to lurk in the shadows, until they are needed
Rudi, Peter will need your magic, when he returns to his 40 next week.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
Whoooooaaaa, Am I the only one here????? how about @lostmarbles, @Coolerman, and all the other electric guru's?
I see 3 problems here:
1. The voltage is too high. Should be between 13.4 and 14.4V
2. The aux fuel gauge is not working.
3. You have a problem with the trailer lights.
Correct?
Let's start with the voltage. What is stock and what not. What alternator do you have, internal or external regulated?
Do you have a digital voltage meter in the cabin?
Lot's of pictures will help.
Rudi
I see 3 problems here:
1. The voltage is too high. Should be between 13.4 and 14.4V
2. The aux fuel gauge is not working.
3. You have a problem with the trailer lights.
Correct?
Let's start with the voltage. What is stock and what not. What alternator do you have, internal or external regulated?
Do you have a digital voltage meter in the cabin?
Lot's of pictures will help.
Rudi
Nee, maar jij bent mijn held!
yep 4th gear is the one to tow with 5th gear only has a drip feed oiler from the transfercase so not a good gear to work under load
- Thread starter
- #28
Hi Rudi
Thank you for your speedy reply
Re the over charging / 15 volt problem.
Can we work on this one first.
I can not give more photos till next Friday . I'm on vacation and the forty is at home.
Back ground
All parts that move ,turn ,spin , have been replaced with OEM were obtainable .
So in saying that I have fitted a new alternator and external voltage reg.
The build is FJ 40 fitted with a 2f motor built 10/1982
Problem 1
Over charging .
Fitted is a Smiths volt gauge ( new and made in the UK )
Fitted is a new gel very large battery .
Fitted is a Red Arc dual battery regulator .
Not fitted is the second battery.
The problem charging 15 volt started 4 to 5 hours into the drive . Up until then the gauge was reading 13 / 14 volts.
To improve the situation when charging at 15 plus volts I turn on the head lights . The gauge came back to 14 volt .
The next morning the fault would not return straight away with charging at 13 / 14 volts . Problem returns 1 to 2 hours into the drive.
I'm guessing with my limited knowledge that the problem has something to do with not having a second battery fitted.
Am I on the right track.
What are your thoughts?
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
Thank you for your speedy reply
Re the over charging / 15 volt problem.
Can we work on this one first.
I can not give more photos till next Friday . I'm on vacation and the forty is at home.
Back ground
All parts that move ,turn ,spin , have been replaced with OEM were obtainable .
So in saying that I have fitted a new alternator and external voltage reg.
The build is FJ 40 fitted with a 2f motor built 10/1982
Problem 1
Over charging .
Fitted is a Smiths volt gauge ( new and made in the UK )
Fitted is a new gel very large battery .
Fitted is a Red Arc dual battery regulator .
Not fitted is the second battery.
The problem charging 15 volt started 4 to 5 hours into the drive . Up until then the gauge was reading 13 / 14 volts.
To improve the situation when charging at 15 plus volts I turn on the head lights . The gauge came back to 14 volt .
The next morning the fault would not return straight away with charging at 13 / 14 volts . Problem returns 1 to 2 hours into the drive.
I'm guessing with my limited knowledge that the problem has something to do with not having a second battery fitted.
Am I on the right track.
What are your thoughts?
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #29
Hi all
Just found some more photos
The first is the volt gauge.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Just found some more photos
The first is the volt gauge.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Nice job... I love the smiths guages ... They are very accurate and simple
What guage do you have going in the last hole?
What guage do you have going in the last hole?
Great 40 in my favorite color......
May I ask you two things...
1. What tire size are you using on the split rims...is there any way to avoid tubes in this setup..
2. What have you covered your exhaust pipe with(the black stuff) is some kinda paint..
Thanks
May I ask you two things...
1. What tire size are you using on the split rims...is there any way to avoid tubes in this setup..
2. What have you covered your exhaust pipe with(the black stuff) is some kinda paint..
Thanks
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
With the elec issue... Is it only a problem with the trailer attached ?
Maybe a problem is in one of the led light?
Maybe a problem is in one of the led light?
- Thread starter
- #34
Hi all
To answer some of the questions.
The gauges
Gauge 1 is a Smiths mechanical oil pressure gauge . I fitted a Tee at the oil pressure gauge.
Gauge 2 is a Smiths volt gauge.
Gauge 3 is a Smiths capillary temp gauge
Gauges 1 and 3 are old school.
On the over head console
Gauge 4 is a Smith Tacko
Gauge 5 is a Smith Vacuum
Gauge 6 is a Smith dual air pressure ( one being diff lock air pressure ) ( the other being air tank pressure)
Gauge 6 is a Smith fuel used on the aux tank.
Question
Is the high voltage problem only when the trailer is plugged in?
No it happens after a few hours driving.
Tyres
Dunlop 750 16
Split rims need tubes.
Exhaust paint
The exhaust shop tell me it is a high temp Ceramic paint.
I can not confirm or deny this answer.
Led trailer lights
Now that's a weird problem
I need to get more info to post on these problems.
I think that answers all questions
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
To answer some of the questions.
The gauges
Gauge 1 is a Smiths mechanical oil pressure gauge . I fitted a Tee at the oil pressure gauge.
Gauge 2 is a Smiths volt gauge.
Gauge 3 is a Smiths capillary temp gauge
Gauges 1 and 3 are old school.
On the over head console
Gauge 4 is a Smith Tacko
Gauge 5 is a Smith Vacuum
Gauge 6 is a Smith dual air pressure ( one being diff lock air pressure ) ( the other being air tank pressure)
Gauge 6 is a Smith fuel used on the aux tank.
Question
Is the high voltage problem only when the trailer is plugged in?
No it happens after a few hours driving.
Tyres
Dunlop 750 16
Split rims need tubes.
Exhaust paint
The exhaust shop tell me it is a high temp Ceramic paint.
I can not confirm or deny this answer.
Led trailer lights
Now that's a weird problem
I need to get more info to post on these problems.
I think that answers all questions
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Firstly Peter ... Congratulations on a magnificent build/restore.
I note your clutch master looks like the Biggs one I was running (ex Roodogs) judging from the shape of the reservoir. If it is, it's certainly well made and fit-for-purpose (to use the jargon my employer favours at the moment)..
I think I become "fit-for-purpose" if I arrive at work with zero alcohol/drugs in my bloodstream, well-rested, clean-shaven, correct uniform, polished shoes etc etc LOL
Beautiful choice of words there Danny
(This quote should go into my signature line I reckon...)
A massive stretching of the truth to suggest I may be an electrical guru Rudi!
All I can do here is concur that 15V is too high and Pete already knows that.
As Peter says. You gotta have the tubes.
Which raises an interesting issue because the manufacturer (B F Goodrich) of my tyres doesn't expect their tyres to hold tubes. Some years back I bought one of their tyres with a tiny split in the inside wall. This would be fine when run as tubeless (which presumably is why Goodrich never threw it in the reject pile). But any such inside-wall-splits will pinch a tube to make it leak (so now I inspect the inside walls of my tyres extremely closely before choosing whether or not to run them). Another thing to watch is that you don't leave any stickers inside the tyres and remove all traces of the glue used to place them there. It sounds hard to believe that this is necessary but believe me, stickers left in place WILL damage inner tubes and make them leak.
And the above is why some people run only those tyres that were made for holding tubes.... (I don't do this because tyre-cost is a big factor for me and I like the low-wear characteristics of radials which aren't usually made with inner-tubes in mind.)
PS. There are heavy rubber "liners" used to separate/protect tubes from having contact with the metal of the wheels themselves (which can develop sharp "rust shards" if they haven't been galvanised or had similar thorough protective treatment). Because these liners are heavy, they WILL result in wheel-balance-issues if they aren't located perfectly "true". So that's something else people need to be aware of if they're thinking of running splits.
I note your clutch master looks like the Biggs one I was running (ex Roodogs) judging from the shape of the reservoir. If it is, it's certainly well made and fit-for-purpose (to use the jargon my employer favours at the moment)..
I think I become "fit-for-purpose" if I arrive at work with zero alcohol/drugs in my bloodstream, well-rested, clean-shaven, correct uniform, polished shoes etc etc LOL
Beautiful choice of words there Danny
(This quote should go into my signature line I reckon...)A massive stretching of the truth to suggest I may be an electrical guru Rudi!
All I can do here is concur that 15V is too high and Pete already knows that.
As Peter says. You gotta have the tubes.
Which raises an interesting issue because the manufacturer (B F Goodrich) of my tyres doesn't expect their tyres to hold tubes. Some years back I bought one of their tyres with a tiny split in the inside wall. This would be fine when run as tubeless (which presumably is why Goodrich never threw it in the reject pile). But any such inside-wall-splits will pinch a tube to make it leak (so now I inspect the inside walls of my tyres extremely closely before choosing whether or not to run them). Another thing to watch is that you don't leave any stickers inside the tyres and remove all traces of the glue used to place them there. It sounds hard to believe that this is necessary but believe me, stickers left in place WILL damage inner tubes and make them leak.
And the above is why some people run only those tyres that were made for holding tubes.... (I don't do this because tyre-cost is a big factor for me and I like the low-wear characteristics of radials which aren't usually made with inner-tubes in mind.)
PS. There are heavy rubber "liners" used to separate/protect tubes from having contact with the metal of the wheels themselves (which can develop sharp "rust shards" if they haven't been galvanised or had similar thorough protective treatment). Because these liners are heavy, they WILL result in wheel-balance-issues if they aren't located perfectly "true". So that's something else people need to be aware of if they're thinking of running splits.
Peter,
Congrats on your build - I can only hope that mine is similar to yours when I start.
With regard to your charging - have you contacted redarc to discuss?
Dan
Congrats on your build - I can only hope that mine is similar to yours when I start.
With regard to your charging - have you contacted redarc to discuss?
Dan
Tom (@lostmarbles),
My choice of words, while certainly a faux pas, is much more profound than you realize! I could definitely help Peter short out his wiring issues!!
You have a very keen eye, Tom... Which one is it?
My choice of words, while certainly a faux pas, is much more profound than you realize! I could definitely help Peter short out his wiring issues!!
You have a very keen eye, Tom... Which one is it?
- Thread starter
- #38
Hi all
Hi Tom
Tom you have a keen eye to spot the clutch master cylinder .
Though out my build there are subtle changes made thank you to a gentleman Called Lost Marbles.
Just by chance my clutch master and slave cylinder have evidence of lost marbles posts on this subject .
This guy also provided valuable information on stainless steel hoses.
Who is this supper guy
So in Danny's words I would like to thank these supper heroes lurking in the background.
And with that I say thank you.
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
Hi Tom
Tom you have a keen eye to spot the clutch master cylinder .
Though out my build there are subtle changes made thank you to a gentleman Called Lost Marbles.
Just by chance my clutch master and slave cylinder have evidence of lost marbles posts on this subject .
This guy also provided valuable information on stainless steel hoses.
Who is this supper guy
So in Danny's words I would like to thank these supper heroes lurking in the background.
And with that I say thank you.
Cheers Peter
...via IH8MUD app
Careful Peter, Tom's cheeks are flushed. His hands are pushed down in his pockets ,his right leg is across his left and his big toe is kicking dirt...
But, embarrassed or not, he deserves all the praise you've given and more!!
Jeeeze. I don't know what to say alright... Surely I make enough stuff-ups (and publish them) to show that I don't always know exactly what I'm doing or even talking about.. 
