First drive

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Well done Ken
Do we count you in?
Danny you can drive the Suzuki as a back up vehicle.
This one is well suited for the job. 540 cc
Would offer you Nats Seat but I don't like your chances
Cheers
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Would love to do it Pete as I have always wanted to do those highways and cross them off the bucket list but I think that it will be a while beofre the LX is ready for a trip of that magnitude.
 
Hi Ken
We're is your sense of adventure.
Besides Danny can tow with the Suzuki if you get into trouble.
Len did the trip in a 50 ies / 60 ies Landi
It will be a trip of a life time . ( won't it Danny )
Cheers


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Pete my sense of adventure is still there but the LX can't even find 5th gear ATM. I would rather miss a few trips than go and know I might be a burden to others and spoil it. As for the Suzuki towing me back that's enough reason not to do it. Lol
 
I've enjoyed reading at least one of Len's books and I've often dreamed of shipping my BJ40 back to explore some of his tracks. (I bought it in Perth 34 years ago and "taking it back to its roots" has always appealed to me.)

But commonsense (and the absence of having "money-to-burn") tells me that Danny, Rudi, myself (and others not from the land of Oz) would be much better off buying something over there and then reselling to come back home.

Compared to shipping costs, we could afford to lose a few grand on the resale (which would remove much of the pressure involved in the buying and selling and allow us to do it faster). USA-based adventurers more so than me of course.

Perhaps a LWB 79 series troopy would suit us best ....Room to sleep inside cos we're getting rather old for roughing it in a tent.

I'm quite a skilled contortionists because I have slept (and sometimes still do sleep) in my BJ40 but I don't think any of us (& Danny included) would ever straighten out again if we tried it in that Suzuki!

:beer:

PS. There is a major snag though (that's even bigger than lack-of-$$$-problems and the fact that I'm not yet retired) - All my wife thinks of these days is Zumba Zumba Zumba. I'm not sure I can drag her away from that ... particularly since I wouldn't consider less than a 3 month stint back in Oz.

PPS. I guess you never expected me take the Gunbarrel idea seriously did you? But getting back to Oz for a good outback holiday has always been high on my agenda.
 
Hi Tom
You have to have dreams.
Yes shipping costs and the red tape in getting a forty series street legal for Australia. What a night mare but it's fun thinking about it.
I will do the Gunbarrel one day but first I have to divorce my self away from my job.
That's easier done than said.
I flew over your beautiful country this afternoon.
I have to look at what a container is going to cost me so I can do a forty series trip to NZ.
Now that is a possibility.
Cheers




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G'Day Mates! ( I'm working on learning the language... Preparing for the trip of a lifetime alright!)

It's certainly something to daydream about, but the logistics are a nightmare... I guess I'll just walkabout (well, drive about) over here in the deserts of Nevada. There are still a few camels about and plenty of wild horses. More than enough snakes... No Roos, but jackrabbits the size of small Roos. I always keep my two 'dingos' with me and the remote Nevada night sky is large enough that I can pretend I'm in an Ozzy adventure.

But, thanks for the dream Peter!
 
Wow, I would love to have the time and money to load !Oy on a ship, and head to Australia! It's one of my bucket list places to visit. Especially Ayers Rock, Wolfe Creek Crater and of course the Great Barrier Reef.

Anyway, back to your issue.

First, one huge issue I see is the AGM battery. AGM batteries are not like Lead Acid batteries. The charging parameters are completely different. An AGM battery requires a constant charge voltage of 14.4 to 14.7 volts followed by a float charge of 13.5 to 13.8. A Cruiser regulator will not provide these voltages and will overcharge the battery over time. Overcharging will greatly reduce the AGM battery life.

The second issue with these batteries is their ability (due to their low internal resistance) to accept and deliver LARGE rates of charge/discharge current with no damage to the battery. This is a two edged sword: On one hand you can charge the battery quickly and can connect large loads to it. However, our Cruisers charging systems were not meant to handle this behavior. If you deep discharge an AGM or Gell battery, then start the truck, the alternator will deliver as much current as it can generate to the battery. This will cause heat build up in the alternator AND the battery. AGM charging should stop if the core temp reaches 120 degrees F (48.8 C) or internal battery damage can occur. These batteries are also not the best for under hood use. They should be remotely mounted to avoid the high under hood temps. . In your case I would put the AGM battery in the camper and get a large Lead acid for the Cruiser. You will still face the issue with charging the AGM correctly for longest life, especially with the long cable run.

Now the fusible link is another issue. The fusible link carries current for the entire electrical system in your truck. It is a 14ga (roughly) wire. It is rated for a 55 amp alternator, a lead acid battery and normal OEM loads. Under "normal" conditions that link MIGHT see 20 or 30 amps.

You now have a battery that can potentially accept the full output of the alternator. Try this scenario: It's winter, the battery is discharged pretty low, you start the truck, turn on the headlights and heater fan and oh yeah the camper is connected. The fusible link is going to see the entire load which could easily exceed 60 amps! No wonder it's getting hot!

Looking at post #54, with the pic of the fusible link, it appears the link is in pretty good shape. However check the wires going into each of the three connectors for signs of breaking strands or corrosion of the terminals. I make these links, and if it is determined that you need a bigger fusible link as Tom suggested, I can provide it.

To sum this up: I think you should (as a test) put a lead acid battery in the Cruiser and see what happens. You may have a damaged regulator also.
 
I got curious and did some research on AGM battery charging in an automobile. I found it very strange companies were selling these batteries to people with standard alternators and regulators knowing they would not be charged correctly. (More sales for them of course).

I have always gotten a lot of my knowledge about charging systems from the marine industry. So I turned there to see what might be available since boaters commonly use these AGM batteries on boats.

Here is what I found, it's pretty exciting actually! Sterling makes a series of external regulators that are capable of being user programmed to correctly charge all battery types! Not only that, it is capable of working with N or P type alternators. (Ours are N type ie the regulator is in series with the field coil on the GROUND side. P type alternators the regulator is on the + side. P type are usually Marine alternators) AND there is a model that will work with both 12 and 24V systems. 100 to 400 amp alternators can be controlled. Includes temp sensor(s) for battery/alternator and there is even a remote display available.

Check it out here:
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterlingpoweradvancedalternatorregulators.aspx
http://sterling-power-usa.com/Advanced regulators waterproof.pdf

Though expensive, this appears to be the only solution to correctly charging the AGM?Gell batteries in our trucks. Plus it provides a LOT of useful information for folks without electrical knowledge.

Edit: One more thing: This unit also supports split charging ie two batteries separated by a relay like the RedArc.
 
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Hi Mr Coolerman
Gee what a reply.
This more than explains why the fuse link was getting hot.

Sometimes things play on my mind. This is what the battery sales man told me.
Your forty series will never be able to fully charge this battery but it will work ok.
BUT if you ever use an electric winch you will need to charge the battery with a AGM charger.
Or if going on a long trip first charge your battery with the AGM charger before heading off.
Why I asked and was told that these batteries like being charged to 14 volt.
This just did not seem right at the time and your post confirms this.
For that I thank you.
Re your links.
Which reg do I need to buy?
Reg 1 , 2 , 3 or 4 ?

Am I right to say that with this Gizmo I can charge the AMG battery using the 40 s aftermarket alternator .
And this reg will also charge the deep cycle batteries in the camper?
I wonder if there is an agent for this product in Australia?

Your visit to Australia.
It may be a bit tricky to drive the 40 series to see the Great Barrier Reef!
Some Floaties may be needed.

Thank you for your help.
Cheers Peter



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Bambi Girl said:
Sometimes things play on my mind. This is what the battery sales man told me.
Your forty series will never be able to fully charge this battery but it will work ok.
BUT if you ever use an electric winch you will need to charge the battery with a AGM charger.
Or if going on a long trip first charge your battery with the AGM charger before heading off.
Why I asked and was told that these batteries like being charged to 14 volt.
This just did not seem right at the time and your post confirms this.
For that I thank you.
Re your links.
Which reg do I need to buy?
Reg 1 , 2 , 3 or 4 ?

Am I right to say that with this Gizmo I can charge the AMG battery using the 40 s aftermarket alternator .
And this reg will also charge the deep cycle batteries in the camper?
I wonder if there is an agent for this product in Australia?

Your visit to Australia.
It may be a bit tricky to drive the 40 series to see the Great Barrier Reef!
Some Floaties may be needed.

Thank you for your help.
Cheers Peter



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Click to expand...

Well at least he was honest about the Cruiser not being able to fully charge the battery!

The AR12W (for alternators under 100 amps) would be the one you want. Be aware that you will have to take the alternator apart and solder in a couple of wires to the brushes in order to make this work. That is according to their directions in the user manual. I really don't see why, since the Toyota alternator is an N type and the connector brings the Field wire out through that connector.

Yes using this you can charge the AGM batteries with the alternator you have. If you later switch to a lead acid battery, it's a simple matter to change the regulator to charge it.

One neat thing one could do: Run dual alternators! One with the stock regulator and a lead acid battery for starting the truck, and the other to charge AGM camper or winch batteries.
 
Hi Mr Coolerman
Hi All
An update of were I am.
Last Monday I put the AGM on charge using the AGM charger.
Last Tuesday I flew to New Zealand returning yesterday ( Thursday ) spoke to Gentleman Tom " Lost Marbles "while I was there.
Today Friday time to play Toyota .
AGM battery now reading 5.6 volt. Not connected to any power source since Monday .
I think the forty series killed the AGM . That was a quick $400.00. I wonder who should take the blame her here?
The AGM is now back at the dealer under going testing.
Did some research while I was away. Hotel rooms are good for this.
Redarc make a DC to DC charger and Reading the article this is what I need. Welcome comments here.

We're i now need help is ;
If I DO NOT get another AGM battery under warranty what do I buy for a starting / winching battery and how do I set up the charging of the Deep Cycle batteries in the camper?
Is the standard Forty series charging circuit suitable?
Cheers Peter


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Well, I missed the fact that RedArc makes DC-DC chargers! I read up on them. Seem to be very good units though a bit expensive.

I personally would use a stock alternator with a large lead acid battery for starting/winching. No worries about compatibility, reliable as dirt, and parts can be gotten anywhere.

For the camper battery, use the DC-DC charger and the AGM/Gel battery. You get the ability to charge to full capacity, have deeper discharge ability and little to no maintenance. You could even add solar panels and a solar controller or a DC generator as the input to the DC-DC charger.

They state to mount the DC-DC charger close to the aux battery so that keeps your engine compartment cleaner and would allow you to charge the camper battery from ANY +9-32V source as long as you can connect to it.

I think the place you got the battery from should replace it no charge, or at least prorate it. Though they did inform you it would not fully charge, they did not state it would be cooked in the process.
 
I might have missed it through the thread but what about using a deep cycle marine battery for the van. This would allow you to let it drain down a long way without destroying the battery and then take full charge again.
 
Hi all
And so the saga continues.
Talking to TJM ( Similar to ARB if you have not heard of TJM)
Re batteries and the Redarc range of DC / DC charges and a hole lot of other things relating to my charging needs and the charging system on the forty series.
With the camper included in my needs and the camper having two 100 amp hour deep cycle batteries the long and short of it all is the 40 series charging system is just to small and outdated .

Phoned Braille Batteries Australia.
The guy from Braille batteries tells me the B10049 battery that I have will withstand the heat in the engine bay but and a BIG BUT is this battery requires 14.5 to 14.7 charging volts.
Get out of this voltage range and you could experience GRAVE RESULTS.
And I did !
So this is why I cooked the AGM. Good by $400.00 and RIP.
Not game to tell Nat who is now asking how much more do you need to spend before its finished.
She wants a new kitchen and I told her after the forty is finished.

My next question.
So I fit an AUX battery and use a DC to DC charger what happens when the camper batteries need charging?
This now makes 3 aux batteries to charge.

Off to an auto sparky. Never had much luck with these guys in the past. They seem to talk down to us mere mortals.
This is good for me as I always have questions and I do not stop if I feel they are talking mombo jumbo .
A little knowledge is sometimes good.


After the first 5 minutes of talking this guy gathered he has to watch his Ps and Qs as this customer knows a little bit about how all this should work plus looking at the Forty he can tell I'm fussy.
He then offers me a Bosh 120 amp ( new ) alternator .
I will need to spin up a new pulley on the lathe but it looks good to mount.

Am I the Lone Ranger here or have others been down this path.
A bigger alternator and a heaver cable to the battery seems good to me.
What perils am I going to run into here?

On the lighter side I got my seats back today.
Beautiful the forty sure does look good with the original seats.
I will take a photo in the daylight tomorrow and post.
Look forward to feed back here.
Cheers Peter




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Pete get the 120 amp alternator and take the stock amp gauge out of the system. I could be wrong but thinking the 120 may fry the 30-50 amp gauge with the the extra charging rate. Now you need a extra gauge or 4. :)
 
Hi Ozcrusier
Hi all
I had thought about that.
I have the 50 amp meter in the dash cluster.
Not being an Auto Sparky I was thinking along these lines.
When fitted the new alternator have its own new loom , alternator to battery via an inline fuse?
So the new alternator will monitor the start battery voltage and charge as necessary . When the start battery is full 12.7 volt the Redarc battery isolator closes allowing the Aux batteries to charge. Shut the motor down and the Redarc opens thus disconnecting the Aux batteries from the start battery.

Does this then mean ?
The old OEM main supply fuse link still can be connected to the start battery however this will be used as an outgoing supply only?
If this is the case can the ammeter still stay connected?

Lots of needed input here as I'm out of my depth.

Thank you for your input.
Cheers Peter






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Hi Peter,

I'll let the electrical know-it-alls answer your questions... But, I use a portable 80watt solar panel and a charge controller to keep my camper/trailer batteries up.

I don't know how you camp... Parked in the shade or in the sun... I always park in the shade, when I can, and move the solar panel to a sunny spot... That's the reason for the portable panel.

But, you could easily mount panel(s) on the roof and let it charge all day, while driving or when camped in sunny areas... You could also have a portable panel to use when parked in the shade.

If you have plenty of sun, the panels should keep your aux batteries charged... Especially with LED lights thoughout the camper. Of course, I don't know what your camper has, that would draw from the batteries...

I know this is another thing to learn, but it's really quite simple and the prices are very reasonable... Here in the states...

Cheers!
 
Hi Peter.

Your -50/+50 ammeter monitors (ie. works-off) the voltage drop across your main fusible link. (Hence my question before about what readings you were getting on it when that fusible link was running hot because those readings should have been HIGH .... if everything was was intact in your ammeter circuit that is.)

In other words, your -50/+50 ammeter is really a milli-voltmeter that's had the face calibrated in units of current.

And if you charge via a different wire (than the one holding your main fusible link), your ammeter will then only be reading "discharge current" (so it won't be influenced by your planned high-output alternator anyway).

And even if you did choose to put your high-output alternator current through your main fusible link (and modify/enlarge both this fusible link and the wires it protects to handle it), provided the fusible link is sized correctly (ie. large enough to handle the new high-output) your ammeter will still be able to handle it (but the "50" numbers on the face will of course look low in comparison to your alternator output).

Whenever your fusible link is sized too small (or getting hot for other reasons such as "broken strands) your twin 5A ammeter fuses should protect your ammeter from burning out regardless of what current your fusible link is carrying. (That is the purpose of those two little fuses in your engine bay near your battery.)

You must realise that the -50/+50 design is not like the old -30/+30 design (where all the current passes through it's internals). Only very small currents pass through the -50/+50 ammeter.

And my experience is that the OEM -50/+50 ammeter never does more than "twitch in response to indicator/hazard blinking" in cruisers that are in completely original/stock condition anyway.. (So it's best to rely on a voltmeter to monitor your alternator performance and just leave the ammeter "for show" to keep the dash looking OEM.)

Anyway ... So what all this blurb is leading to .... is that whatever way you look at it ... there's no problem at all in leaving your ammeter connected.

:beer:
 
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