First attempt at replacing the suspension on my '78 (3 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 7, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
22
Location
Jerome, AZ
I got this FJ about 5 years ago, bought it online through a listing from a dealership in TX. I hadn't had an FJ since the early 90s and I wanted one so bad, that it obviously clouded my better judgment. The dealer had a dozen pictures and that's all I needed to see at the time I guess. Got it shipped to me and thought it was just the friggin coolest thing ever. Had a few issues, but I overlooked them, cause now I owned an FJ40 again dangit! I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and running my own business makes it tough to find time to work on my own rigs myself. The FJ has creaked and groaned for 5 years as it's just getting going in 1st, or reversing. I knew something wasn't right, but don't have the real "know-how" to troubleshoot. A friend was helping me with it one day and crawled underneath to see if he could visibly see where the sound was coming from. He said, Get down here and check this out! He rocked it forward and backward and it was obvious what was up. The u-bolts on the rear passenger side were loose enough, that it was allowing the axle to rotate just enough where it was causing the driveline to flex up and down at the u-joint :oops: I had already ordered an entire new leaf spring and shock kit from CruiserCorps, and yesterday me and the Mrs decided to get a start on it. We quickly realized this was going to take more tools than I had. Called my son's best friend, and he brought a torch and many other tools along with him. I think this FJ was possibly found at the bottom of the ocean due to the amount of rust the frame has, and a different body was put on it (I did get many many pictures, after I had purchased it, of what it looked like before restoration, and it was a heap of junk, that's for sure). Anyway, we put about 8 hours into it yesterday. We got the front disassembled and all put back together. The rust slowed our progress a lot, but we got it done.

Here's the blame for all the creaking and groaning. Passenger rear u-bolt. We only attacked the front yesterday, and I'll get to the rear in a few days, just showing what was up here.

20250301_104513.jpg


It would've been helpful if the kit came with some instructions. We had no idea which ones went on the front or back. Watched some YouTube videos and I think we got the fronts in the right position. If someone notices that they aren't, please please let me know. There were parts of the kit that came with threaded holes, that the bolts just won't thread nicely into. Going to go get a kit for dies and re-tapping this afternoon. I thought that was kind of crazy that they wouldn't thread. Oh well...

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The finished product... Springs attached as well as all 3 shocks. Ball joints and a master cylinder leak to work on next.

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The driver's side shock is up against the steering rod. Not sure how to fix that. Any suggestions?
 
I got this FJ about 5 years ago, bought it online through a listing from a dealership in TX. I hadn't had an FJ since the early 90s and I wanted one so bad, that it obviously clouded my better judgment. The dealer had a dozen pictures and that's all I needed to see at the time I guess. Got it shipped to me and thought it was just the friggin coolest thing ever. Had a few issues, but I overlooked them, cause now I owned an FJ40 again dangit! I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and running my own business makes it tough to find time to work on my own rigs myself. The FJ has creaked and groaned for 5 years as it's just getting going in 1st, or reversing. I knew something wasn't right, but don't have the real "know-how" to troubleshoot. A friend was helping me with it one day and crawled underneath to see if he could visibly see where the sound was coming from. He said, Get down here and check this out! He rocked it forward and backward and it was obvious what was up. The u-bolts on the rear passenger side were loose enough, that it was allowing the axle to rotate just enough where it was causing the driveline to flex up and down at the u-joint :oops: I had already ordered an entire new leaf spring and shock kit from CruiserCorps, and yesterday me and the Mrs decided to get a start on it. We quickly realized this was going to take more tools than I had. Called my son's best friend, and he brought a torch and many other tools along with him. I think this FJ was possibly found at the bottom of the ocean due to the amount of rust the frame has, and a different body was put on it (I did get many many pictures, after I had purchased it, of what it looked like before restoration, and it was a heap of junk, that's for sure). Anyway, we put about 8 hours into it yesterday. We got the front disassembled and all put back together. The rust slowed our progress a lot, but we got it done.

Here's the blame for all the creaking and groaning. Passenger rear u-bolt. We only attacked the front yesterday, and I'll get to the rear in a few days, just showing what was up here.

View attachment 3851201

It would've been helpful if the kit came with some instructions. We had no idea which ones went on the front or back. Watched some YouTube videos and I think we got the fronts in the right position. If someone notices that they aren't, please please let me know. There were parts of the kit that came with threaded holes, that the bolts just won't thread nicely into. Going to go get a kit for dies and re-tapping this afternoon. I thought that was kind of crazy that they wouldn't thread. Oh well...

View attachment 3851206View attachment 3851207View attachment 3851208

The finished product... Springs attached as well as all 3 shocks. Ball joints and a master cylinder leak to work on next.

View attachment 3851209

The driver's side shock is up against the steering rod. Not sure how to fix that. Any suggestions?
 
The truck doesn't sit squarely. Hoping that putting the new springs and shocks on the rear will help. Am optimistic, but not certain. I've sat in the driver's seat to see if my 200lbs will level it somewhat, but it didn't seem to effect it either way.

Any suggestions?

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Have you seen any of this information?
No I have not, thank you so much!

Looking thru the posts. I checked, and the springs are centered on the nub on the center of the springs, so I'm not sure how it wouldn't be "centered" correctly, and the grease ends are up. Is there another way you can tell if the axle is centered correctly? Pardon my ignorance, but I really appreciate the input. Maybe the shock is just too wide and I'll need to get another new set that has a smaller diameter? Or as one poster put it, just flip the shock over and remove the dust cover.
 
You don't what to invert a shock and here is why:

"
Inverting a shock absorber, meaning mounting it upside down, will significantly affect its performance by changing the way it compresses and rebounds, usually resulting in poor handling and potentially damage to the shock itself, as the internal components are not designed to function in that orientation; in some specific applications, like certain high-performance motorcycle forks, inverting the shock design can be intentional to achieve specific handling benefits, but this requires careful engineering and is not a general practice for most vehicles.

Key points about inverting a shock:
  • Reduced damping effectiveness:
    The internal valving within a shock is designed to work optimally when positioned correctly, so inverting it can disrupt the fluid flow and significantly decrease the damping force, leading to a bouncy, unstable ride.

  • Potential damage:
    The seals and piston design in a shock are typically optimized for a specific orientation, and inverting it can put excessive stress on these components, causing leaks or premature wear.

  • Changed weight distribution:
    In some cases, inverting a shock can slightly alter the weight distribution on the suspension, impacting handling characteristics.
    "
 
Stock '74 with OME 2.5" lift. You can see how much room I have between shock and pitman arm. This pic is from my front knuckle/disc swap. I also put new TRE's on, rebuilt center arm at this time. Not even close to touching. I haven't pulled my steering box nor messed with that part of steering yet.
Do you have pics of the whole steering set up? Yours is a later year, but don't think the geometry changed?????

Wouldn't worry about lean until you get the whole suspension done and get it out and FLEX it a little bit. Usually, cruiser lean goes the other way.

IMG_8341.JPG
 
Stock '74 with OME 2.5" lift. You can see how much room I have between shock and pitman arm. This pic is from my front knuckle/disc swap. I also put new TRE's on, rebuilt center arm at this time. Not even close to touching. I haven't pulled my steering box nor messed with that part of steering yet.
Do you have pics of the whole steering set up? Yours is a later year, but don't think the geometry changed?????

Wouldn't worry about lean until you get the whole suspension done and get it out and FLEX it a little bit. Usually, cruiser lean goes the other way.

View attachment 3851739
WOW!! I need to re-do my brakes and balljoints bad. Yours are so shiny and new, ha! Ya, my geometry all looks the same as yours does. The rear springs and shocks really helped level things up, but my shock is still touching, not as bad, but close.

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Thanks for the input gents!
 
Show us a pic of the upper shock tower from the top and maybe a side shot of the frame. The circled part of the pic looks strange. It maybe nothing too.
20250305_084712.jpg shock interference.jpg
 
Just for reference here...

Low mileage OEM springs with fat old Monroe shocks.

View attachment 3853592

I get that for sure, but I just spent $2200 for the whole kit. Easy fix is to get smaller diameter shocks and throw the OME shocks on the shelf... Just hate to waste that much money on new shocks to replace new shocks, ha!
 
I get that for sure, but I just spent $2200 for the whole kit. Easy fix is to get smaller diameter shocks and throw the OME shocks on the shelf... Just hate to waste that much money on new shocks to replace new shocks, ha!

Sell the shocks and recoup a few $$$. Someone will want them.

If/when I lift it will be more modest than I like andI l'll probably stick with Bilsteins.
 
I have not used OME shocks yet. Is the eyelet on the top of the shock centered or offset? If offset, flip it. I really can’t tell from the picture.
 
Migrating to the power steering side of things... would give you the option of not having this steering rod located where it currently is.
Just a thought...
View attachment 3851761

This FJ does have power steering. Are you saying the pitman arm against the shock is unnecessary since I have power steering, or am I misunderstanding your message? Pardon my ignorance once again...
 

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