Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe (3 Viewers)

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So had a work meeting with an old co-worker yesterday that is a car nut. He has his own garage where he has restored multiple firebirds (the thing he loves) and so I was talking to him about the high idle issue after the rebuild. He said that the manifold vacuum leak really shouldn't cause but the first thing that he had come to mind was either a sticky valve or float or possibly swapping of some throttle return spring, either inside or out. So that got me to thinking, there are two springs that are attached to the accelerator linkage on the back side of the carb (facing the driver if you are in the seat, or the firewall). Does anyone know offhand if they are different lengths? I have marked the two areas that I am talking about in the pick below.. there is one that is circled and then the hole for the other that actually connects to the throttle linkage. I will test when I get home tonight after work but was wondering if anyone knew offhand.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

If that is not the case, then what other floats/valves may be sticking in the carb after the rebuild? Not really sure where to start with that and also wondering if I will need to buy another kit for the horn gasket?
 
The air horn gasket is available separately from Toyota but it costs about $13.
21622-61010

The springs on the carb return whatever they're pulling on to their end position. If that part is bottoming out to its stop, then the spring is doing its job, even if it's the wrong spring.

If there's still some tension in the spring when the carb is "relaxed" then it's doing its job.

I know that on my carb I can turn down the idle adjustment screw far enough so that the engine will barely idle. Way too low. Maybe examine those linkages. It seems that something is being stopped by something.... not being able to go down far enough.

I'm too lazy to go back through your previous posts, but I think you tried running the engine without the accelerator linkages attached to see if that was the problem?
 
Output Shaft said:
I'm too lazy to go back through your previous posts, but I think you tried running the engine without the accelerator linkages attached to see if that was the problem?
Click to expand...

Nope never tried that so not sure... there seems to be SOME tension on the accelerator "reset" spring when it is in the relaxed position. Weird thing is that there are times where it will sit and idle at around 690 (I call the proper idle the tach mount screw on the left) for no reason whatsoever and then most time it is right at 1k or a little over. Again adjusting the idle screw seems to do little to nothing. Thinking I may need to pull the hood off again just so I can easily get to the carb and make adjustments and play with it.
 
Grr.... got home and went to take a look at the springs to see if my theory was correct and noticed this....
Looks like it is leaking through the small bronze bushing..
 
That is not the secondary, I recall a thread about that leaking, (i forget what it's called) while annoying, not critical, can be plugged with a short screw.
The picture above, post #1081 shows a red circle on the bottom of the carb, which has a spring that runs to the shaft at the butterfly at the bottom of the primary barrel. That butterfly may not be closing completely at idle speed... It is difficult to reach the point where that shaft goes into the carb base, and trying to free up the stick-y-ness at both front and rear of carb along that shaft is the goal.
HTH
 
klinetime574 said:
@gregnash Just want to be sure you see this thread: Troubleshooting Secondary Slow Cut Valve Modification on Aisin 2F Carb

Looks like some good info in there. I need to check and see if mine is leaking. I don't believe it is, but you never know.
Click to expand...

Alex, yeah the only reasons that I noticed mine was leaking was because I got in there to look at the springs and then I could smell lots of gas. I ran over to the other side thinking that maybe my fuel pump was going out but could not find anything on it, then went back to look at the springs and could hear a slight bubbling/popping noise and happened to see that area was wet.

Yea I saw that thread as well when I was doing some searching last night. Looks like the secondary slow cut is only used when vacuum pulls from the bowl in high throttle situations when the secondary is activated. The small plunger seems to be vacuum actuated to allow fuel to ONLY go when there is vacuum created by the high load. Seems that by simply removing it and then replacing with a bolt it leaves the valve open but still allows it to pull when vacuum is applied. Going to look into this as I had looked at the right screw and it really did not want to break loose when I tried to turn it.
 
So that secondary slow cut valve hasn't leaked since...*knock on wood* so havent had that to deal with.
Tonight I went out to mess with the timing a bit and see about hooking up my vacuum gauge (where to run line, etc.) and as the truck was quietly idling I could hear a slight hissing. Couldnt figure out for the life of me where it was but pinpointed to a general area around the firewall side of the carb.

Randomly I started spraying things to see if I could hear any upbeat in the idle. Soon as I hit the EGR end of the PCV hose idle goes up. Found the leak... Tubing is cracked pretty good at the little elbow there so looks like I am emailing Onur in a minute here to get one out for me. Wish I had the time to go to Georg's this weekend but with the holiday I am going to be all over the place with family so no dice for me.
 
Bummer about crack, but awesome you found the leak. None of that EGR metal stuff is available new any longer. But I'm sure you could find a used one.
 
First wheeling trip with the group was a blast ending with some trail carnage... detonated the TRE at the pitman arm. Luckily one of the guys had some bailing wire and a BFH to get it back together. Took it slow on the way out, would last about a mile or so before would lose steering again which meant getting out and rewrapping everything with the bailing wire. In the end it worked enough to get us to the main road where we waited for AAA to come get us. Was a fun trip and will be going out again for sure.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
 
Very cool.

Baling wire is handy if that's all you've got, but isn't very strong when push comes to shove... as it just snaps (as you experienced).

The ultimate of ultimate lash down "material" that every 4 wheeler should carry is a spool of braided (not twisted) tarred black nylon twine (seine).

This stuff can lash down a torn motor mount, trail repair a broken leaf spring, and lash and bind down anything with boa constrictor force. Since its nylon it stretches if wrapped with force and wraps up whatever you're lashing with super strength if wrapped in several layers. The tacky tar coating makes it work even better.

I always carry a spool with me on trips & I always end up using it for so many things.

image.jpeg



Trotline Cord - Braided Black Tarred
 
Thanks Fred... The bailing wire was breaking it was just that my TREs were all so worn that anytime I rolled over a rock it would cause them to articulate and rotate. This then turn into rotation while articulating which would cause the ball to pop out (audibly) of the joint. After that the wheel just spun freely from side to side as the pitman arm wasnt connected. Part of it was that the bailing wire would flex/stretch some allowing the rotation.

But I will definitely pick up a roll of that braided line for the trail bag.
So far the trail bag will have;
- 3lb sledge
- bailing wire
- linebackers (heavy dykes)
- small socket set
- work gloves
- towels of various size

I dont seem myself doing any serious wheeling and this will be the most aggressive I will get so it was fun to see what she could do. Next on the list of items for purchase though is my HAM license and a small baofeng so that I can at least talk with the group. Got to figure a mount position for it too as having the wife hold one of the guys extras or having in my lap while going over rocks just wasnt a good combo.
 
Bummer about the TRE's but once you get them replaced you'll be good to go for a long time. Plus it's just one of those jobs every cruiser owner has to do at some point I guess. Kinda like knuckles - ugh.

Looks a fun trip otherwise. I would like to get myself to one of these runs in the future.

-Ed
 
Ed, keep your eye on the club house at the beginning of the month as we usually discuss them at the monthly meetings. Once we were done with the Petroglyphs we split off into two groups. One went back to VC, where I detonated the TRE and the CJ7 behind me blew a motor mount in the same place, and the other went on to Bronco Canyon for the guys with more capable rigs. Apparently they had issues as well with two different trucks blowing birfs.
 
Well the day was spent beating on things with large hammers and using a club members HF steering kit (had appropriate TRE puller in it). Got everything buttoned back up and did a driveway alignment. Everything seems good other than the steering wheel being a bit off but I will mess with that tomorrow. Helped the wife get the yard all ready for spring and then was done for the day.

This was what was happening on the trail...
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Drove great when I took her out and about so next couple days will see and make small adjustments here and there.
Here she is with all the new bits.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Next on the agenda for parts will be a new steering damper since mine is OEM and probably shot!
 
Ok there used to be a link to a VISUAL parts database that I cannot seem to find anymore. Looking to see if the PCV Ventilation Hose is still available or not. Think I found what the hose is on a couple of the dbs but without a visual confirmation I cannot tell for sure, oh and they all say NLA, even SOR. Should hear back from Onur tomorrow but was just going to pick up from Oreilly since they have for $10 but doesn't want to allow me to ship to store. Stumble is getting a bit worse now, errrrrr not necessarily a stumble just really rough idle and it didn't happen until I mucked with that hose this weekend.

Think this is the part 12261-61020 (90910-05152), found on this website which seems to be the only diagram site I can find....
 
Last edited:
Yup fear confirmed... got word from Onur this morning that the part is NLA... This is the "formed rubber, no compressable PCV hose" which goes from the EGR pipe under the carb along the back of the engine/firewall to the PCV valve on the other side of the engine.

Good news is that O'Reilly apparently sells the hose, made by Dorman, for $10. They call it an ANTI-SMOG/PCV HOSE as the molded part or looks like you can buy fuel hose to replace. Should have tomorrow morning so we will see if it works. If not, then I will either try the fuel line or SOR sells an aftermarket as well for like $35.
 
O'Reilly's has PCV hose that works. They also have steering dampners (Gabriel) that seem to work nicely. I installed both on my '87.
 
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