Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[RodrigzCrzr]

Thanks man!


Sent from my iPhone

 

[gregnash]

So carb is back together. I don't know that the secondary was working properly as the diaphragm was shot and the Venturi was super clean looking. Not to mention that there was a large piece of what looked like tubing stuck between the butterfly and Venturi. Of course went to take a pic of the piece and my wife had thrown the trash out.

Of course I did the bad thing and had to take it apart a couple times to get everything right but it is all back together and hopefully will be good. Wonder how much I am gonna have to tune it.

Tomorrow will be hopefully getting the side cover replaced and the head at least on.

 

[ROBsSON]

Hope it's all going back together smoothly looking forward to seeing where it's at!

 

[gregnash]

Side cover was a no go as I was limited on time and for the life of me could not figure out how to get it off without pulling the dizzy. Got the block all prepped and pistons cleaned up.

Luckily the bolt that had busted that held the j-pipe block off came out with a pair of vise grips so I chased the threads and put a new bolt in to hold it with the proper gasket. Then I removed the galley plug and tapped it for the 5/8-18 plug but ran out of time for the dinner date with the wifey.

Tomorrow will be getting the head back on and hopefully getting it all buttoned up. Gonna have to retune everything since the carb was so goobered up. So that should be interesting.

 

[Miloslavich]

Nice work Greg!!

post some pics if ya can

 

[gregnash]

Thanks Milo... soon as I can I will post up pics. Been taking a lot with my camera and just haven't uploaded to the computer.
Just waiting for my buddy to get back from skiing so he can help me get the head on. Hoping to have it all buttoned up by tonight and started but we will see.

 

[gregnash]

Well didn't get as much time to work on her today as I wanted as my helper was skiing most the morning. But got her about 90% buttoned up and the first attempt at start up will be tomorrow. Adjusted the valves per the FSM and there were a couple that were overly loose and a couple more that were overly tight, seems exhaust were tight and intake were loose.

Tomorrow will just get getting the belts on, all vacuum lines hooked up and then coolant into the system. Pics to come in the morning as they are currently uploading to my Flickr account.

So just to confirm, interval for retorquing the head bolts is after 100 miles, 500 miles and then 1000 miles for the last? Couldn't seem to find it in the engine repair manual anywhere.

 

[gregnash]

Ok lots of pics as promised... this has been a great adventure so far and I have learned a lot. Having the FSM on my iPad with me and taking pics as I go along has been perfect, the only advise I can give someone who is looking at doing this and is like me in that they have never dove this deep is.... TAKE MORE PICS THAN YOU THINK NECESSARY. I did lots of labeling with blue painters tape but there were still a few things that I had to really scratch my head, try different ways and what not to finally figure out (like the damn accelerator linkage). But all in all she is going back together just fine.

Without further ado...
Carb before rebuild and cleaning... she was a dirty bitch...
IMG_2936 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Dirty
IMG_2909 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_2910 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Yee gods dirty!!
IMG_2912 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_2915 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Rods all labeled....
IMG_2917 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Rocker off...
IMG_2918 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Manifold off... (you will see the J-pipe blockoff at the bottom of the pic. You can see the one bolt that was busted off, luckily that came out with a pair of vise grips and was chased and had a new grade 10.9 bolt put in its place. Since the other was just fine I didn't want to press my luck.)
IMG_2920 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Head off
IMG_2921 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 1
IMG_2923 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 2
IMG_2924 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 3
IMG_2925 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 4
IMG_2926 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 5
IMG_2927 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Cylinder 6
IMG_2928 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

As you can see they were all pretty hot and full of carbon. My buddy and I went after the hea

 

[gregnash]

Here is the head after we cleaned it up....
IMG_2945 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Luckily there was ZERO marring in any of the cylinders, no scraps or anything so the rings are in really good shape it looks like.

Forgot to have the machine shop do the soft plug (galley plug) so I did it myself.. finally got to put my tap set to good use
Replaced it with a 5/16x18 by 20mm plug with red Loctite.
IMG_2948 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
IMG_2949 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Head all cleaned up, all new seats(?) from the engine rebuild kit and all valves were ground to ensure good seal.
IMG_2950 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

IMG_2951 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Close-up of the emblem
IMG_2952 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Underside..
IMG_2955 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

And finally the block with the gasket on!!!! Can't tell you how many times I checked to see that it was on properly before I had my buddy come in and help put it together.
IMG_2956 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Head on, rods in, rockers on, all headbolts torqued to spec and valves being adjusted...
IMG_2957 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

All kindsa stuff put back on....
IMG_2958 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

She is looking like an engine again!!
IMG_2959 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[Output Shaft]

You gotta paint the head or its gunna rust all up in no time.

I used KBS Motor Coater paint with a small artists paint brush after the head was installed. Really great paint.

So just to confirm, interval for retorquing the head bolts is after 100 miles, 500 miles and then 1000 miles for the last? Couldn't seem to find it in the engine repair manual anyw

It's not in the manual.
Here's one opinion:

Start the engine for the first time and quickly take a look at everything in the engine bay while its running. Look for obvious things like squirting or dripping coolant. Listen for any unusual noises. The valves may be kinda noisy and clicky.
Let it run at fast idle for about 15 minutes, keeping an eye on the coolant and temperature gauge. Get the engine up to full operating temp.

Shut it down and remove the rocker arm assembly while its still hot.

Retorque the head while its still hot. (Back off ea head bolt a tad and retorque it. Then move to the next one in the sequence shown in the manual).

If you prefer to check the valve lash while the engine is running, replace the rocker arm assembly and start the engine back up to warm up the valves and push rods. Then check them when everything is hot & running.

Or if you prefer to check and adjust the valves hot with the engine off, same deal, but w engine off after it heats up.

Then retorque or check the manifold bolts.

Retorque head (and check valve lash) at 100, 500, 1000 miles and every year thereafter.

 

[gregnash]

So here is all that has been done...

- Head machined for flatness on both sides (block and manifold)
- Exhaust manifold machined for flatness
- All valves ground, seats replaced with OEM units and everything brought back to spec with head being tested for issues
- Water pump replaced with new OEM unit
- Head gasket replaced with OEM unit
- Manifold gasket replaced with OEM unit
- Exhaust donut replaced with OEM unit
- Replaced all exhaust manifold hardware (bolts, studs and washers/nuts) with OEM units
- Replace headbolts with OEM Units (not needed but figured what the hell)
- Replaced temp sending unit with NAPA unit
- Replaced Thermostat with both gaskets with OEM units
- Replaced Thermostat housing gasket with OEM unit
- Replaced Oil cooler hoses with OEM units
- Rebuild Carb with rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters
- Replaced secondary diaphragm with NAPA unit
- Replaced valve cover gasket with OEM unit
- Replaced Carb to Air cleaner gasket with OEM unit
- Replaced Carb/Air cleaner nut with Wingnut (OEM Unit)
- Replaced spark plugs with NGK units (NAPA)

Only found one small bypass hose on the waterpump that needed replacement so that was a NAPA item other than that the other hoses looked fine. Lots got done in the last weeks time.
Today I got to finish...
- installing fan clutch
- installing and tensioning belts
- hook up remaining vacuum lines
- fill system with coolant
then it will be time to start her up and do some tuning. Excited to have my truck back for sure, been WWWWAAAAYYYYYY too long since I was able to drive her.

Once this is all done and the bank account and credit cards have stopped smoking then I will be going to the muffler shop to install a new muffler. Looks like one of the POs did some exhaust work at some point so there is a HUGE goober weld where you can see they mated the down pipe from the manifold to some new pipe and instead of doing it properly or trying to sleeve it you have this huge, nasty clump of welding metal. My muffler is shot anyways to I will just have them do the entire thing seeing at they already quoted me $250ish from the cat back with new pipe and a Flowmaster 50-series muffler. Sure it probably wont be more than another hundred bucks to do the remainder and just keep the cat.

 

[gregnash]

You gotta paint the head or its gunna rust all up in no time.

I used KBS Motor Coater paint with a small artists paint brush after the head was installed. Really great paint.



It's not in the manual.
Here's one opinion:

Start the engine for the first time and quickly take a look at everything in the engine bay while its running. Look for obvious things like squirting or dripping coolant. Listen for any unusual noises. The valves may be kinda noisy and clicky.
Let it run at fast idle for about 15 minutes, keeping an eye on the coolant and temperature gauge. Get the engine up to full operating temp.

Shut it down and remove the rocker arm assembly while its still hot.

Retorque the head while its still hot. (Back off ea head bolt a tad and retorque it. Then move to the next one in the sequence shown in the manual).

If you prefer to check the valve lash while the engine is running, replace the rocker arm assembly and start the engine back up to warm up the valves and push rods. Then check them when everything is hot & running.

Or if you prefer to check and adjust the valves hot with the engine off, same deal, but w engine off after it heats up.

Then retorque or check the manifold bolts.

Retorque head (and check valve lash) at 100, 500, 1000 miles and every year thereafter.

Thanks for the info @Output Shaft! And CRAP completely forgot to paint the head... that's gonna be interesting.

 

[Output Shaft]

Don't get too fixated on exactly where your temp needle ends up on the gauge. My experience with aftermarket temp sensors is that they are not calibrated the same as OEM. (At least the one I got).

The reason I used KBS Motor Coater paint is that it's specifically designed as engine paint AND it can be brushed on.

It flows on really great. Super smooth glossy nice finish. Nicest brush on paint I've ever used.

If you use it, be sure to use it with a good fan and half mask respirator in an open location though as it is an isocyanate solvent based paint, like all the good paints are.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah the plan is to add an aftermarket vacuum gauge and temp gauge later on this year.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so she is alive!!! However, she will not idle without the choke pulled. When it is pulled she idles a little rough. There is fuel in the sight glass though close to the top of the middle section (maybe flooding the carb?) and when I pull the linkage I do see fuel squirt in the primary so I know the accelerator pump is working... Buddy isnt home yet so no way to test the fuel cut solenoid by myself really. Went through all the vacuum lines and ensured they were on good so I did not have a massive vacuum leak somewhere.

Other thoughts other than ICS? Possible that I am flooding the carb? I can get her to idle down to about 1500rpm but that is about it..

 

[HemiAlex]

Glad to see it progressing!

This thread couldn't have come at a better time. I've got new intake and exhaust valves, a gasket set and some other bits sitting next to me for when I have time to pull the head.

I've got a cracked #5 exhaust valve, so its time for a full cylinder head re-fresh. I'll be printing this thread and reading it closely.

 

[gregnash]

Ok pretty sure the ICS is bad as I am not hearing a click and we cannot get it to idle without the choke pulled. Tim to find the info for the Green Wire Mod. Anyone got a link to what I need to do??? Thus get rid of the emissions control computer all together.

 

[gregnash]

Found what I needed for the green wire mod, or at least not the green wire mod.

EDIT:
Couldn't figure out how to grab the posting link on my iPad.
Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures
Thread as information on the "Green Wire Mod" which basically permanently grounds the ICS/Fuel Cut Solenoid by taking the ground wire (white with black stripe) from the green connector attached to the solenoid itself and grounding it to the carb body. So like I remembered hearing, Green Wire is a misnomer.

 

[Output Shaft]

Yes, but the ICS requires power to open. It requires 12V to open it up to let the fuel flow.
If the valve is faulty and doesn't click (open) when 12V is applied across its leads, then just grounding a wire wont fix it.
The ICS must be functional for the carb to work. A bypass to an ignition hot wire could be used to remove the emissions computer, but the ICS needs to be functional and have power when the ignition is on.

It seems very improbable that the emissions computer would suddenly die right now.

I would unscrew the ICS from the carb and verify if it works or not.

 

[gregnash]

Yes, but the ICS requires power to open. It requires 12V to open it up to let the fuel flow.
If the valve is faulty and doesn't click (open) when 12V is applied across its leads, then just grounding a wire wont fix it.
The ICS must be functional for the carb to work. A bypass to an ignition hot wire could be used to remove the emissions computer, but the ICS needs to be functional and have power when the ignition is on.

It seems very improbable that the emissions computer would suddenly die right now.

I would unscrew the ICS from the carb and verify if it works or not.

Yeah that is on the agenda tonight... got to figure out how to give it 12v to test though. Did a simple indicator light test at the harness end plug and was getting 12v at the hot wire when ignition is on.

So that brings the next question, if the ICS is dead where can I find one as I thought they were NLA. Looks like Cool Cruisers is the only one that has them in stock that I can find so far. Think I devised a way to test tonight so will try tonight and see.
Solenoid, Idle