Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

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Did you prep the bolts with anything like copper anti-seize?

Looking for a list of fluids, RTV, etc. that will need to be purchased for this as well. Already got a proper tap coming from @Output Shaft to chase all the head bolts. Actually will probably pick up a cheap METRIC set from Amazon or eBay to chase some of the other holes too since I will be replacing the manifold hardware as well.
 
I followed the FSM recommendations explicitly.

A LIGHT coat of motor oil on the HB threads. Not dripping in oil.

The torque specs in the manual are specified for new clean bolts in clean threads with a light coat of motor oil. Grease will invalidate the spec.

Before the rebuilt head is placed back down on the block, after you've run the tap on the block holes and blown them out, do a test oiling on one of the new head bolts and screw it down into the block.

Once the bolt is screwed all the way in, check to see that you don't have oil oozing up out of the threads and pooling up on the block.

If that happens, too much oil was placed on the bolt. Remove it, wipe it off, blow out the hole and try it again with less oil.

What you're trying to avoid is oil oozing up under the HG during torquing due to excessive oil.

Don't dip the HB threads in a cup of oil then drop them into all the head holes... Then torque them down.

All that excess oil will pool up on to the block and under the head gasket, while you're fiddling with things, then squeeze out on to the block, under the HG when you screw them down.

It will also burn off into carbon inside the block threads and gum up the threads, making future retorquing invalid due to increased thread friction.

Although there is no statistically relevant proof that contaminating a HG with oil will compromise the seal... I for one would rather be safer than sorry if something as simple as lightly oiling a bolt could prevent... another HG failure.
 
Yeah no I completely agree which is why I am asking for input. I still have to dig out the FSM but at work they have effectively blocked dropbox otherwise I would be printing out some pages here.

Definitely going to invest in some of the Fel-pro Snap ups (ES72865) to help with alignment and placement of the oilpan gasket since that will be pulled to ensure that there are no major issues or anything with the bottom end.

@vszUnclear recommended that I check the bottom end because I have mentioned that the engine was excessively burning oil in the past. While now I believe that was more LEAKING oil from things like the valve cover not being completely tightened down, I am sure that I have some other small issues. So all stuff that I will do while I am in there... really debating on whether or not I want to drop the tranny because I THOUGHT that some of the leaking oil was coming from the rear main until I realized that the valve cover was not tightened down so now I don't know. That is just one more thing that I would have to do that I really don't want to get into if I don't have to. Hoping my buddies pressure washer is working so we can blast everything off before we start working on it and see where the real leaks are coming from.
 
Ok recommendation on new plugs? Probably something that I should have bought from Onur but will just pick up locally if necessary. I swapped in Toyota OEM plugs when I first got the truck and did new cap and rotor about 3yrs ago, think it is time for new plugs?
 
Spark plugs are spark plugs. Nothing special about Toyota plugs.
 
Thanks J (@reevesci).... I actually had those buried in my Amazon lists so will be sending away for 6 new ones soon... And at $2.59/ea can go wrong, especially with prime shipping.

Now to get the carb off so I can start the rebuild on that. Got to go looking for @Pin_Head videos he made on the rebuild. Gonna grab a carb cleaner can/bucket/thingy from NAPA and some Metric ratcheting combo wrenches to make getting the carb and other things off easier. Really hoping that once I have this over to my buddies that I can get her back up and running in about a months time.

Oh and got a quote from local recommended machine shop that would be about $200 for everything done to the head and 2day turn around MAX! That included cleaning head, checking valves, magnaflux, other checks for cracks, milling and disposal fees. Will have them do the galley plug while they have it and replace the seals since I will be getting new ones with the kit.

Really really curious to see what the inside of this old engine looks like, think the last time I saw the inside of an engine was back in high school when one of my buddies was working on a 327 for his shop class project.
 
In the past, I had sent my carb out to JimC for him to deal with it. But this last time I could not afford the down time, as the 60 was my only car back then, so I decided to take it apart/clean it on my own. First time.

So from that experience I'll share a couple tips, many of which are included in pinhead's video.

Work on the carb on a big nice flat clean table that has a good surface. And very good lighting.

Get yourself a lot of small parts containers to place all the teensy weensy parts that will be coming off the carb. A few magnetic trays can be very handy too. A magnetic finger can come in handy too.

Keep the parts containers in chronological order and numbered to help you to keep track of the order that the parts will need to be assembled.

Take a lot of pictures of the carb fully assembled and while you're disassembling it. When it's time to put it all back together, it's not obvious at all exactly how all the parts are supposed to go. Most things are pretty obvious. Some are not. You will not remember how it is supposed to be.

Be extremely careful dealing with the teensy weensy check balls. They are super tiny and easy as hell to lose. They are not available any more. If you lose one, you're screwed.

Make sure the screwdriver you use to remove the jets fits the notched head of the jet correctly. If you bugger the head of the jet, you're screwed.

You can't be too careful taking the carb apart and putting it back together. 99.9% of the carb parts are NLA, and if you lose just one of them, you're screwed.

Other than that? It's a piece of cake.
 
Yeah I have been watching ebay to see what comes up because I know that is where you said you got yours Ed (@cruiser enthuiser). There are a couple that are right around $1k but with shipping or if they are below $1k the have close to 200k on them. Locally I have a truck that has engine and tranny still attached (confirming) that is a 94 TBI 5.7 with 130k on it and good compression (according to them) for $675 for the engine. If I did that and bought a used/reman'd 4l60E from somewhere then I would be into the engine/tranny for a little over a grand. That's kind of a hard deal to beat if everything is true about the engine. And since it is local I would rather take that chance giving me the ability to go after them locally if something bad where to happen and they lied or whatever.


I know people on this forum love the TBI but for me, it is my least favorite v8. I got two of them in work trucks, both 94's. The TBI is a total dog compared to even a 5.7L vortec. It is one of the lowest hp v8s Chevy ever made, the 305 being worse than the 350. I would say they are reliable, got 200k on one in one of the 94's and we have treated it like s*** the last 17yrs but the other one developed a bad knock at 135k. I swapped in a 5.7L vortec in that truck and the truck has way way more balls balls now. It gets up and moves almost as good as a 5.3L, granted it has an NV4500 behind it which is a lot different than the 4l60e. TBI is reliable and simple but also way crude and iirc Chevy smogged the thing heavily which contributed to the low hp #'s. You can build up a TBI a lot but why mess with that when newer gen v8's are fairly cheap these days. A lot of people seem to shy away from the newer gen v8's because they are more complex but really once you understand them and how they work plus use a scan gauge, there are super easy to trouble shoot. And most sensors are dirt cheap to replace not to mention available everywhere.

Get on www.car-parts.com and search for the engine you want. Search by year and model of the donor truck. For example, 2012 GMC Denali, engine. Tons come up from expensive low mile engine to high mile or damaged engines for dirt cheap. car-parts.com is like and ebay or craigslist for junk yard/wreckers all over the country. I was inquiring about a 6.2L from a Denali in Texas back in July. The seller sent me a video of it running, showing mileage, ect ect ect. Engine was a 2012 with only 22,000 on it. $5k to my door with all wiring, ECU, pedal and all accessories. 6L80e trans would have run me another $1500 roughly. Now I am sure $6500 is out of most peoples budget but the 6.2L is the cream of the crop. If you search 6L you will find many on there with trans attached for the $3k neighborhood. Even cheaper for a 5.3L.

From my experience the 5.3L is a great motor but the older ones with the 4L60e, under load like towing, on a grade on the HWY it will downshift to 2nd and hold 5k rpms for many miles to maintain speed. My 6Lin a 2001 2500HD will do the same thing but only if towing a big 6,000+lbs load. I don't think it is bad for the motor but I would rather not have to deal with a truck running in 2nd at 5k rpms for many miles as it climbs grades. So to me, more power the better and the more gears in the trans the better. 5.3L now come with the 6L80e as well as 6L and most all of the 6.2L have the 6spd trans.

Last bit, keep in mind any of the new gen v8's respond very well to a cam and a tune. Camming a 6L will easily boost you close to 400hp, even more if that is what you want, of course the tune comes into play too. Dude I work with for wiring and tuning says he can and has easily got 415hp out of an LQ4 and one he got 465 out of it simply from a cam and a tune. Shouldn't be a problem to get high 300's from a 5.3L with the right cam and tune.

Food for thought.

Cheers
 
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Thanks for the info @RMP&O...... The main thing was I was gathering information to do the engine swap in another year or two with the engine pre- top end rebuild. However now that I am putting money into a rebuild I will plan to run the engine longer than that which means the swap won't happen for a while. That is unless I suddenly come into money or have to completely replace the engine.
 
Ok getting ready to call AAA tomorrow to tow BeBe over to my buddies barn. Will try to work quickly and get the head off the few days after that and up to the machine shop. All parts are supposed to be delivered today/tomorrow so should be looking good for the most part.

Next question, in case the valves are shot where is the information from @FJ40Jim on using the SBC valves for the head. Really doubt this will be the case but want to be prepared to hand over to the shop should I suddenly get the call. Figure it will be a full day for me to take everything apart and at least another to get back together. Going to pull the carb and rebuild while I am waiting on putting back together.
 
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1451782981.818013.jpg


Well she is officially over at my buddies. Gonna start tomorrow pulling everything apart.

Replacing side cover gasket and water pump while I am at it. Been so freaking cold here that I am going to wait until spring to do the carb rebuild and oilpan gasket. Warmest it has been so far is 38*.

Now to figure out everything that came in the engine gasket kit (what is what). Any suggestions of other "while I'm in there"??
 
Oh I was just saying while your replacing everything in there maybe vacuum lines unless you have already

Kids jumping on me made sense in my head lol
 

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