Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #322
Now onto the fronts. We realized right away that the drill we had wasn't going to work. So off to HomeDepot to rent it. Nope. Harbor Freight? Nope. Gotta rent it from the HomeDepot 25 miles from where we were. Oh well, tomorrow we will finish the new Castor plates. Everything else we we took care of. I bought Marlin's tie-rods but two are the wrong ones. So I will need to order those from CDAN on Tuesday. That sucked. Everything seems to be going ok. The draglink took some beating to get off 
Put Peter worked it good
New tie-rods with Bud Built's draglink and we were good to go. New sway bar bushings and Slee's front sway drop block. Got the old driveshaft off and the new one on. Here;s is where I almost screwed up pretty bad:
I noticed that I lost a split washer. Asked Peter for another. Attached the driveshaft. Got it all bolted up. Realized that the end near the transfer case that the shaft was seating properly. Crap!!! I left one of the split washers still on the stud. AAARRGGHHH!!
Take the driveshaft off and start again. The driveshaft is a pretty big pain but having someone there to put the transfer in N then 4H then N then 4H over and over again helps when you need to rotate the shaft.
So all we need to do in the morning is drill those four holes, replace the bushings with the OEM bushings and new bolts. Then bolt in the shocks and pop in the springs and we are good to go.
Other thing to decide is bump stops. Still have no idea what to do here.
Put Peter worked it good
New tie-rods with Bud Built's draglink and we were good to go. New sway bar bushings and Slee's front sway drop block. Got the old driveshaft off and the new one on. Here;s is where I almost screwed up pretty bad:
I noticed that I lost a split washer. Asked Peter for another. Attached the driveshaft. Got it all bolted up. Realized that the end near the transfer case that the shaft was seating properly. Crap!!! I left one of the split washers still on the stud. AAARRGGHHH!!
Take the driveshaft off and start again. The driveshaft is a pretty big pain but having someone there to put the transfer in N then 4H then N then 4H over and over again helps when you need to rotate the shaft.
So all we need to do in the morning is drill those four holes, replace the bushings with the OEM bushings and new bolts. Then bolt in the shocks and pop in the springs and we are good to go.
Other thing to decide is bump stops. Still have no idea what to do here.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #323
Here you can see that the space in the rear is now three hands high. Its about 10.5" on the PS and 11.5" on the DS. This could easily be because of the way the front end is jacked up. Its a HUGE difference.
EDIT: the rear has already settled by almost two inches in less than 24hrs.
EDIT: the rear has already settled by almost two inches in less than 24hrs.
Last edited:
e-brake line, You can get a longer bolt that holds the support loop that attaches to the under side of the cross member and use a spacer to drop it down. The spacer doesn't have to be fancy, just some tubing cut to about 2". I think a bolt that is a M8x1.25x70 should work for this.
I wouldn't worry too much about front bump spacers as we don't flex all that well up front but i'd put in 2" rear spacers should be put in.
I wouldn't worry too much about front bump spacers as we don't flex all that well up front but i'd put in 2" rear spacers should be put in.
alia176
SILVER Star
My wife and son came to pick me because we didn't finish up in time. My son, as soon as he sees the truck says, "well, looks like you are going to need some new tires".
My daughter said the same thing when we came up to this obstacle
"Daddy, you're gonna need MUCH bigger tires...."
Ouch....
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #331
Drilling out the new caster plates. What a bitch. You will need a large assortment of drill bits to step up. One broken bit later and two new sizes purchased and we are good to go. Tacked in the plates and we are golden. One side is drilled with the LCA ready to go in. All of the bushings I got for the LCA were wrong so I'm going to reuse what is there. Mine are decent anyway. I can change them out later.
I'm interested in knowing if you needed anything other than the ome kit to run that 2.5? Brake lines etc. or is it just bolt on and drive. Also how does it ride?
the issue with this is that on the passenger side the bit must pass through the outside part of the bracket to drill the inside do to the fact that the diff is on that side. But if the largest hole for those bits was 5/8" then no problem.
Not the easiest install I know but I feel the results are worth it.
alia176
SILVER Star
FWIW just giving them a visual doesn't tell you the while story. Stick the arm in a vice, and then using a long round bar, tweak the bushings this way and that way. If you see cracks opening up, time to pay the Piper
Totally different approach to solving our caster issue. I'm the odd man out as far as design goes.
No disrespect. Was just wondering.
non taken.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #340
So I nearly did a face plant getting out of my newly lifted beast. Parked in my driveway to dump the old used bits in the trash. Wasn't paying attention and just opened the door and stepped out. My leg swung under and I almost ate it hard. Luckily I caught myself with my good arm. Good show for the neighbor across the street 
Now I'm concerned that my wife...in heels...is going to be eating concrete soon. I need to look into getting one of those small automatic steps. Argh!
Now I'm concerned that my wife...in heels...is going to be eating concrete soon. I need to look into getting one of those small automatic steps. Argh!
