Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (5 Viewers)

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Issues to consider running any bypass is tube orientation. There's not a lot real estate for the tubes to reside, and the King IBP (Internal Bypass) have been rumored to be ineffective at 14" shock strokes, or less. (Jowett would be whom I'd direct that question too, if not King directly).

Icon offers stackable tubes, meaning they can be spun around the shock body, to orient in any location. Not sure what they offer for the 80 specifically, though.

If building for high speed, which doesn't make sense with a 4" lift, triple bypasses should be capable of performing the same function as an air bump, utilizing the last "tube" of the bypass. I don't think this is typically the purpose, but it's possible.

Have a buddy running Jounces on an FJC and he beats the crap out of them, and the only issue was busting his fabbed coil mount. They don't offer the same stroke as a hydro, but don't take up much space, either.

It's unfortunate that the 80 section doesn't seem to have a lot of participation from shock experts, but guess most guys on here stop reading once a shock cost more than $45 each.

Glad to see someone else with the same expectations as I have, though.

It is a Lexus, after all.
 
here are some pics of the shocks installed.

The first is of the reservoir line from above and it's proximity to the inner fender flare.

The second is the reservoir itself to the inner fender.

And the third is the orientation of the rear shock.

The problem with the rear is that you need to position the shock to avoid LCA and sway bar during compression. So it's position needs to favor the outside but then you have to be concerned about the brake caliper hitting it.

I mentioned these issues to the owner and he'll need to flex the system and decide a path to ensure there isn't problems down the road.
radflo 004.jpg
radflo 005.jpg
radflo 006.jpg
 
I encountered similar on the rear of the FJC and due to, planned on ordering remote, with a specified hose length and predetermined resi location, using a Poly mount. Not saying the best way, but the way I'm familiar with.

One benefit to remote is it should minimize the shock body spinning, which they'll do. Within tight confines of all that moves, having a piggyback spin can be an issue or, at least, it was on the rear of the FJC with long(er) travel suspension.

Now, the important question.

How does it ride?
 
Can't the reservoirs be mounted in the engine bay on the inner fenders?

Can't the hoses be ordered to length?

How difficult are they to revalve?

Does the amount of Nitrogen determine the road feel?

Do I need to carry a 1lb bottle of Nitrogen with me now?
 
I personally wouldn't change the fronts at all, just trim the fender.

On the rear of possible I would remote mount the reservoir to the inside of the upper spring mount I don't know what kind of hardware is available or how flexible that Jose is but it would be ideal.
 
This is all great info as I need to get new shocks as well. I am at about 6 inches of lift though. What's the beat way to check travel? Can I remove the current shocks and cycle with a forklift? How flexible is Jose? It gets pretty tight in there. :)

Typed using my thumbs.
 
NLXTACY said:
Can't the reservoirs be mounted in the engine bay on the inner fenders?

Can't the hoses be ordered to length?

How difficult are they to revalve?

Does the amount of Nitrogen determine the road feel?

Do I need to carry a 1lb bottle of Nitrogen with me now?

Mounting in the engine bay is counterproductive, considering the resi's purpose is to minimize heat.

Think all are about the same on revalving, but would still require a general knowledge of what to change for desired result. I lack that knowledge, so haven't tore into the Radflo's yet. The other brand I participated (I paid and watched) in rebuilding wasn't too bad.....

N2 pressure does have to do with the feel, but wouldn't go as far as buying an N2 tank. I did then sold after using once. Found there's 4 shops in Tulsa with the capability to test pressure and fill, so bet there 5000 in CA.
 
890man said:
What's the beat way to check travel? Can I remove the current shocks and cycle with a forklift?

Beat way is ;sans coils for compressed, sans shocks for extended, but with coils in the latter to ensure they still seat):

Stuff axle to bump, wherever that may be, based on tire size or axle contacting the frame (whatever limits further travel) and measure .

Droop axle until there's minimal pressure on the coil and measure.

Stuff one side to bump, letting other droop and measure.

Measure at ride height.

Add/ deduct 1/4" at critical measures and determine the compressed length, since it determined all others within the confines of a predetermined upper and lower mounting point, then ensure there's 4" up at ride height.

Spoke with Glenn yesterday and he pretty much said the critical measurement is at bump, reiterating that the compressed dimension determines all others, without modifying shock mounts.
 
Just rode 2 hours back meeting with Rick and receiving my RadFloed truck back.

I took mental notes about the ride, and I'll share with you the details when I get a chance.

in short, rides like a BMW. fantastic. but requires explanation. which will be coming shortly!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
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NLXTACY said:
My next batch of parts came in. The Tacoma DC shaft and LANDTANKs caster brackets and bolts. Getting closer ;)

Well after looking over the shaft I realized the u-joints are used. I thought they were new u-joints. The listing wasn't specific but it did say "inspected". Guess I should have asked. No worries. I will get some new ones ordered up and replace all u-joints at one time. I will modify the first post so others know.

Anyone know off hand if the joints are the same for the Tacoma shaft front and the LC rear? If not, what year Tacoma shaft is used or better yet, part number for the joint?
 
rhyary said:
Just rode 2 hours back meeting with Rick and receiving my RadFloed truck back.

I took mental notes about the ride, and I'll share with you the details when I get a chance.

in short, rides like a BMW. fantastic. but requires explanation. which will be coming shortly!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Dying to hear! Would also like to know what made you go RadFlo over Slee's.
 
the only joint serviceable is the front u-joint and it is the same as the front on our truck. Personally I wouldn't bother changing it. I've sold a lot of these shafts and have only had 1 joint come in bad and have yet to hear anything negative from the rest.
 
Issues to consider running any bypass is tube orientation. There's not a lot real estate for the tubes to reside, and the King IBP (Internal Bypass) have been rumored to be ineffective at 14" shock strokes, or less. (Jowett would be whom I'd direct that question too, if not King directly).

Icon offers stackable tubes, meaning they can be spun around the shock body, to orient in any location. Not sure what they offer for the 80 specifically, though.

If building for high speed, which doesn't make sense with a 4" lift, triple bypasses should be capable of performing the same function as an air bump, utilizing the last "tube" of the bypass. I don't think this is typically the purpose, but it's possible.

Have a buddy running Jounces on an FJC and he beats the **** out of them, and the only issue was busting his fabbed coil mount. They don't offer the same stroke as a hydro, but don't take up much space, either.

It's unfortunate that the 80 section doesn't seem to have a lot of participation from shock experts, but guess most guys on here stop reading once a shock cost more than $45 each.

Glad to see someone else with the same expectations as I have, though.

It is a Lexus, after all.

The point of the IBP not functioning in 4" or less is interesting but i really cannot see that being an issue, i did consider it myself but after extensive discussion with the various builders and retailers we concluded that the IBP's function would not be inhibited regardless of shock length as long as your running it in a lift of proportionate size.

I recently pulled the trigger on some 2.5 tube and 2.5RR 7/8 IBP Kings to replace my 2.0 5/8 Fox's which have not been up to the task of extended highish speed driving. I have had the IBP tuned to function as a hydro bump a few " from full compression, progressively getting firmer untill at just before maximum compression bumping out. As long as your lengths and strokes are right there no issue in doing it this way, theres enough "free" stroke before and after IBP to still fcuntion properly even with 12" travel shocks. This obviously changes depending on the size lift you have in there and how much of the shock is "in play" at static.

They aren't installed just yet, but here they are.

20120928170031.jpg
 
the only joint serviceable is the front u-joint and it is the same as the front on our truck. Personally I wouldn't bother changing it. I've sold a lot of these shafts and have only had 1 joint come in bad and have yet to hear anything negative from the rest.

You can't service the double cardan? You can on Jeeps and domestic vehicles, surely you also can on a Toyota?
 

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