Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)

[Delancy]

The support at King shocks is making me want to steer clear.

For good reason. King's were the best ride in OE width, better than either GX, but customer service wasn't their strong suit, and I hate blue.

If I were ordering King's, I'd call Sonny at DownSouth. Guy's forgot more about shocks than most retailers will ever know.

Waiting on a call from Glenn, now. I'm going to layout what I want and if the suggestion is triple bypasses, then so be it. (Flair for the dramatic). The customer service I experienced with Radflo was unparalleled and reason for.

I don't have a tremendous amount of Slee components, but do have utmost respect for Christo and the rest of Slee. Can't speak for the shocks, but betting they're a top quality component, and I've nothing but good to say about the customer service I've received there, either.

They're (collectively Christo and Ben) always on board to help out, even though I'm not a big purchaser, not running a lot of their components, and usually wind up on the phone with them when I have a problem with other companies components, without discriminating.

 

[NLXTACY]

Here is what I am trying to solve with my shock decision:

My current work situation means I'm out of the country A LOT. But that ends in a year or two and then I will have more free time than I know what to do with. This means I can do more overlanding travel, the type of travel I prefer. In the meantime, my son and I do a big two week trip up North. We tend to take dirt whenever we can so the legs will get stretched but its really so we can get from point A to point B and enjoy the view. I travel up the 395 for Mammoth in the winter a few times a year so plenty of snow. But we also take excursions into Death Valley which means rock gardens and miles and miles and miles and miles of washboard roads. I DO NOT do the slow rock crawling thing.

It needs to drive and feel like a Lexus on the road. It needs to absorb washboard and it needs to be able to recover from the weight and abuse from trail driving.

 

[djsixbillion]

Here is what I am trying to solve with my shock decision:

My current work situation means I'm out of the country A LOT. But that ends in a year or two and then I will have more free time than I know what to do with. This means I can do more overlanding travel, the type of travel I prefer. In the meantime, my son and I do a big two week trip up North. We tend to take dirt whenever we can so the legs will get stretched but its really so we can get from point A to point B and enjoy the view. I travel up the 395 for Mammoth in the winter a few times a year so plenty of snow. But we also take excursions into Death Valley which means rock gardens and miles and miles and miles and miles of washboard roads. I DO NOT do the slow rock crawling thing.

It needs to drive and feel like a Lexus on the road. It needs to absorb washboard and it needs to be able to recover from the weight and abuse from trail driving.

I don't do the slow rock-crawling thing (much) either, and have been very happy with the combo of Slee 4" springs and Fox 2.0 remote resi shocks. It handles weight well, cruises smoothly on the highway, and eats up washboard pretty well IMO. Just did a Death Valley trip a few weeks ago and was easily cruising at 50+ mph on the Racetrack road, Saline Valley road and others - when no other traffic was present of course. I did add Timbren bump stops to the rear end to prevent hard bottoming on big hits, and am very pleased with their performance. Gives the suspension that nice "bottomless" illusory feeling.

 

[NLXTACY]

Timbren bump stops...you mean these:

And what about Radflo's Hydraulic bump stops? http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm#

 

[djsixbillion]

Timbren bump stops...you mean these:

And what about Radflo's Hydraulic bump stops? http://www.radflo.com/hydraulic.htm#

Those are the ones. I stole the idea from a thread in the 100-series section, and ordered them through Just Differentials. The ones he carries are a softer durometer rubber than the "standard" Timbren's.

Those hydraulic bump stops look awesome as well, but are more than twice the $. I like the simplicity of the Timbren's too - nothing to leak or fail really.

 

[Delancy]

My two cents.

Put the hydro money towards bypasses, if you really feel you'll be hitting at speed.

I wish I would've on the FJC rear and done dual shocks up front, instead of the Radflo bumps.

Tremendous effort to fab cans and provide a contact pad on the axle, that's already real estate poor. Be a lot easier to do bypasses with a built in bump.

With a 4" lift, not so sure you wouldn't be limited to -1.5" travel bumps, anyway, and still may be hitting them driving around town.

I have to hit speed bumps at 50 just to utilize the air bumps, and considered it a poor investment (I was told nearly the same thing by many, think even Glenn, too , but didn't listen.)

In looking at the LX, even considered fabbing a mount inside the coil......and then I woke up.

Jounces would be my suggestion, if bound and determined, due to the mounting options, but think Timbren's or OE bumps will be my final answer.

 

[landtank]

Sorry I don't have any pictures but can tell you that the shocks are a tight fit. I'm returing the truck to the owner and we have already talked about the need to clearance the front shocks where the hose transitions down to the reservoir. The hose is quite close to the inner fender and with some flexing it might rub. Nothing too major but it is likely needed.

The rear has a little more room but again it's a tight fit.

One thing that was missing was instructions. Since I was installing some 1600.00 shocks I would have like to have seem something along the lines of a FAQ or something.

Unlike other shocks these don't seem to naturally extend. So I thought I might have problems. The other thing is that the isolators are directional depending on the application. As it would have it they were 180 out for our trucks from the factory build. I managed to catch that on the second shock install.

 

[Delancy]

Sorry I don't have any pictures

Thread fail.

Are we talking a job for snips?

Is there a different line orientation you'd suggest?

 

[landtank]

I'll get some pics tomorrow and try to show the tight spots.

 

[jdlsantos]

I just received mine radflos, I am planning to install them during the weekend, I got from Metaltech, it took time to delivery, but it was a nice support, free shipping and some discount, but it is true for that pricy shocks, I would expect some installation instructions, also I am no happy with the hoses, are to short limiting the option to fit the reservoir. After i will report the ride.

 

[Delancy]

Those are piggy back shocks, so the resi stays where it is.

 

[Slomo]

First off to NLXTACY for being WAY more organized than I could ever be and posting all of your ideas for the benefit of us all.

Tremendous effort to fab cans and provide a contact pad on the axle, that's already real estate poor. Be a lot easier to do bypasses with a built in bump.

I have to hit speed bumps at 50 just to utilize the air bumps, and considered it a poor investment (I was told nearly the same thing by many, think even Glenn, too , but didn't listen.)

In looking at the LX, even considered fabbing a mount inside the coil......and then I woke up.

Jounces would be my suggestion, if bound and determined, due to the mounting options, but think Timbren's or OE bumps will be my final answer.

Trying to avoid a hijack, but since it has come up I am currently facing the dilema of what to do for bump stops up front and have been entertaining the notion of hydros inside the coils with Slee 6" springs as that is the only location I have available to put stops and I would like to do something a little better than just the OEM bumps. I am on a very limited budget and bypasses are not an option in the near future. I thought I had read somewhere a while back that a Mudder was in the process but I have not been able to find anything searching and I suspect there is a reason. If I am understanding you correctly you have air bumps installed? Would you mind posting a pic or two of your current setup and any other specifics on why you reccomend against it for NLXTACY's build and or those of us with 6"?

Cheers

 

[NLXTACY]

Those are piggy back shocks, so the resi stays where it is.

Is that good or bad?

 

[CDFarmer]

First off to NLXTACY for being WAY more organized than I could ever be and posting all of your ideas for the benefit of us all.

Trying to avoid a hijack, but since it has come up I am currently facing the dilema of what to do for bump stops up front and have been entertaining the notion of hydros inside the coils with Slee 6" springs as that is the only location I have available to put stops and I would like to do something a little better than just the OEM bumps. I am on a very limited budget and bypasses are not an option in the near future. I thought I had read somewhere a while back that a Mudder was in the process but I have not been able to find anything searching and I suspect there is a reason. If I am understanding you correctly you have air bumps installed? Would you mind posting a pic or two of your current setup and any other specifics on why you reccomend against it for NLXTACY's build and or those of us with 6"?

Cheers

Not a 4" or 6" lift, but gives you an idea of what a Light Racing Jounce shock looks like resting inside the front coil (850) of an 80-
BTW, not my 80-
I've seen two 80's setup this way, one with twin tube 2.5 Kings bypass shocks, 2" Downey coils, and Light Racing Jounce shocks front and rear (owner stated the Kings were overkill after installing the LR bumps)
The other is pictured here, OME LTR's, OME 850 / 860 coils, and Light Racing Jounce shocks front and rear

 

[NLXTACY]

Just so I understand the vernacular, the bypasses are reservoirs? Or am I missing something?

 

[NLXTACY]

Not a 4" or 6" lift, but gives you an idea of what a Light Racing Jounce shock looks like resting inside the front coil (850) of an 80-
BTW, not my 80-
I've seen two 80's setup this way, one with twin tube 2.5 Kings bypass shocks, 2" Downey coils, and Light Racing Jounce shocks front and rear (owner stated the Kings were overkill after installing the LR bumps)
The other is pictured here, OME LTR's, OME 850 / 860 coils, and Light Racing Jounce shocks front and rear

And the tire getting stuffed doesn't touch the res or the hose???

 

[CDFarmer]

Just so I understand the vernacular, the bypasses are reservoirs? Or am I missing something?

Shock pictured is a 2.5" King 3 tube bypass w/ reservoir (not for 80, just for reference)

Bypass are the "tubes" which allow fine tuning of the shocks compression and rebound characteristics

Reservoirs allow for increased fluid capacity - cooler shocks basically, less chance of overheating, foaming - shock fade ect....

C

 

[CDFarmer]

And the tire getting stuffed doesn't touch the res or the hose???

No- I've never touched the hose, 2.5" lift, 35" BFG muds w/ no bump stop spacer

 

[IanB]

Shock pictured is a 2.5" King 3 tube bypass w/ reservoir (not for 80, just for reference)

Bypass are the "tubes" which allow fine tuning of the shocks compression and rebound characteristics

Reservoirs allow for increased fluid capacity - cooler shocks basically, less chance of overheating, foaming - shock fade ect....

C

That looks amazing! Total overkill for most, but still very cool.

 

[Delancy]

Unlike other shocks these don't seem to naturally extend.

Rick,
Re-read and thinking they may not have been charged.

I don't know if they're typically sent charged, or not (I would think yes) and can't recall if mine were, or not. I know we discharged to cycle the front and rear suspension, but don't recall checking N2 pressure before.

It'd be worth querying Glenn on all accounts and suspected issues. I've emailed him on Sunday' and he's replied, even though he may be in South Africa.

info@radflo.com

Chris