Featured 100 - spressomon

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I want to wait, after the testers have had a chance to install their kits, to be sure I don't need to alter the design...which might effect the pricing.

I plan to offer a group buy of sorts on the initial offering that will be about $100 less than the price they will have to sell for; this helps us both.

The base kit will consist of the compressor bracket, the pulley bracket, pulleys and related bolts, nuts, washers, etc., for those that want and can source their own compressor, air line fittings, etc. I plan to have available options, including specific air fittings/adapters/coalescing filters/etc. including a ready to bolt on cam cover.

I also will include step-by-step instructions with photos of the installation process along with instructions for the DIY guys how to modify the cam cover to allow clearance for the serpentine belt.

This kit contains more pieces and parts than a typical electric powered compressor...no getting around that fact. Subsequently its not going to be a 'low price leader' in this category. Having said that I think the pricing will be competitive and commensurate with other belt driven OBA kits for other platforms.
 
Very cool.

So what's the advantage of belt driven vs electrical?
 
The primary advantages to a belt driven OBA system:

*100% duty cycle all the way up to 200+psi and 9.5cfm output. Typical electric powered unit's output is reduced as output psi increases.
*Relatively compact size kit that doesn't require any interior space commitment
*No load against the battery. Some of the higher output electric compressors have significant current requirements (80-90amps for some!)

The current Sanden SD7 I am running fills my 285/75R18 tire from 18psi to 52.5psi in less than 90-seconds (through the regular valve stem with engine at 1500rpm).
 
I used to work for Sanden here in DFW some years ago.

I have seen some youtube videos of the OBA Sanden systems on a jeep and it looks like a stellar solution.
 
Hey Dan... Is this the compressor you are running? And are you using this system for lockers as well?

Sanden 8203 SD7 SD7H15 on eBay!

Seems like if you shop around you can get this set-up which sounds better in quality and cheaper than a ARB compressor set-up...
 
Jason: Sanden seems to manufacture a good product. However trying to figure out all their manufacturing and/or assembly arms has been tough. For instance: Some of their compressors are "Made in the USA"; while some of them are "Made in China" and further there's a whole bunch of authorized Sanden assemblers here and abroad. Then there's the counterfit or pseudo gray market Sanden compressors. And pricing is all over the board for the same model #!

Probably inconsequential, other than possibly the grey market/chinese rip-off units; but damn confusing I must say!
 
They only have 3 plants as I remember.
USA- Wylie, TX
Europe- France
Japan

No China unless they were flirting around with low cost outsourcing and/or some aftermarket refurbished goods.
 
Hey Dan... Is this the compressor you are running? And are you using this system for lockers as well?

Sanden 8203 SD7 SD7H15 on eBay!

Seems like if you shop around you can get this set-up which sounds better in quality and cheaper than a ARB compressor set-up...


Similar but not quite the same. I've designed the bracket around the Sanden SD7 4711 variant. However any ear mount Sanden with an 8-rib clutch should work fine. The 4711 comes with the head port configuration to allow usage of some custom, but affordable, suction/intake and discharge/output adapters that are made for the 4711's respective 3/4" and 7/8" o-ring type ports. These adapters get the o-ring port to a NPT and/or barb fitting so its easier to deal with downstream of the compressor. You can use whatever head port configuration you want...but I had to narrow it down for manufacturing/marketing purposes of these adapters with respect to those that want to source the specialty connector parts from me.

FYI: We use the outer 6-ribs of the 8-rib clutch.

I've seen new 4711 units priced from about $100 all the way to $350 depending on the source and whether its a genuine made by Sanden USA, one of its authorized affiliates (these could be USA or China made) or a chinese counterfit type unit.
 
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They only have 3 plants as I remember.
USA- Wylie, TX
Europe- France
Japan

No China unless they were flirting around with low cost outsourcing and/or some aftermarket refurbished goods.

Yes, apparently from what little I've been able to learn, Sanden either owns or has a licensing agreement with at least one Chinese company...

Its definitely one of the more confusing manufacturers I've come across in the manufacturing sector. Maybe only eclipsed by Eaton ;)
 
For those that might be wondering: I plan to change to Vendor status here on MUD...but I need to get a website up and running first. So its not "if" but "when"...
 
Hey Dan... Is this the compressor you are running? And are you using this system for lockers as well?

Sanden 8203 SD7 SD7H15 on eBay!

Seems like if you shop around you can get this set-up which sounds better in quality and cheaper than a ARB compressor set-up...


I have the ARB Mini Compressor installed for the front locker...I'm going to leave that alone as its low draw, works great for the intended purpose and already installed :).

But you could use the spressoAIR OBAv2 for lockers. Just need to be sure your psi is within range for the ARB lockers...run a regulator off a manifold would be the best.
 
Is there a limit to how high the engine rpm can be when the compressor is engaged?

Your making me like the electric compressors less and less....:bang:
 
pman,
The standard non-HD Sanden models are rated, generally, to 6,000rpm. The HD designated models are primarily designed for big rig diesels and they have a max rating of 4,000rpm; these are engaged ratings.

Dan
 
spressomon said:
pman,
The standard non-HD Sanden models are rated, generally, to 6,000rpm. The HD designated models are primarily designed for big rig diesels and they have a max rating of 4,000rpm; these are engaged ratings.

Dan

I mean that makes sense, these things are AC compressors right?
 
I knew I was holding out on an electric compressor for a reason...

How often do these compressors need to be greased?

Also Spresso, do you have any sort of air intake extensions on either your Sanden or ARB? That might be a stupid question but I'm curious if they go under water while your snorkel is on duty is that bad for them?
 
I mean that makes sense, these things are AC compressors right?

Yes...they are used on a wide variety of vehicles for several decades including today...
 
I knew I was holding out on an electric compressor for a reason...

How often do these compressors need to be greased?

Also Spresso, do you have any sort of air intake extensions on either your Sanden or ARB? That might be a stupid question but I'm curious if they go under water while your snorkel is on duty is that bad for them?


There is a grease mod for Sanden compressors...easy to do; however I chose to run oil in mine with coalescing filters...with an oil return loop back to the Sanden from the coalescing filter's drain; works great.

I have mine pulling fresh air from the filtered air/top side of the engine's air cleaner box...so yes it's water tight and a completely sealed system the way I have mine set up.

The mini ARB compressor is mounted in front of the air cleaner box, behind the grill; I do not have an intake extension for it currently...
 
There is a grease mod for Sanden compressors...easy to do; however I chose to run oil in mine with coalescing filters...with an oil return loop back to the Sanden from the coalescing filter's drain; works great.

What are you using for oil delivery, an oil mist generator or what?
 
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No...it's easy. 4-5oz oil in the Sanden (per Sanden; oil volume varies with compressor model) when the site glass (on the coalescing filter) is 1/2 full I route the oil back to the Sanden (via inline mini-ball valve). Simple & effective.
 
No...it's easy. 4-5oz oil in the Sanden (per Sanden; oil volume varies with compressor model) when the site glass (on the coalescing filter) is 1/2 full I route the oil back to the Sanden (via inline mini-ball valve). Simple & effective.

Very cool, you need to do a detailed write up on that some day, great as another option instead of the York:cheers:
 

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