Favorite Floor jack (1 Viewer)

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You might consider a bottle jack kit that does dual duty if you don't need the convenience of a rolling floor jack and want something you can take along with you.

Some years ago I bought a 6-ton bottle jack with extensions and a stabilizer plate and it's my go-to jack in both the garage and off road -- even if I'm carrying my Hi-Lift. Hi-Lift jacks are widow makers IMO and I'll always grab this first. It lifts vertically as opposed to through an arc like a Hi-Lift and, if you have sliders, the fork attachment and an extension works great without having to get under the truck.

It's gone up a lot in price in the last 5 or so years. Although It's a lot of money to spend -- and it's not exactly a small or light weight kit -- it subs for the stock bottle jacks on three lifted trucks, a Hi-Lift, and a floor jack for me. I know a Hi-Lift can do a lot more than just lift trucks but I can still break a bead loose with the bottle jack and I've only ever used a Hi-lift as a winch once and it was a PITA. Also I don't have anywhere to mount a Hi-Lift on the 62 or 200 anyway.

Not funny story: I had a Hi-Lift rattle loose and fall off my 100's swing out on the Trans Canada in Nova Scotia once. I discovered another way a Hi-Lift could kill somebody. Luckily it didn't and I now have a cable lock on it for anti-theft, anti-projectile protection.

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You might consider a bottle jack kit that does dual duty if you don't need the convenience of a rolling floor jack and want something you can take along with you.

Some years ago I bought a 6-ton bottle jack with extensions and a stabilizer plate and it's my go-to jack in both the garage and off road -- even if I'm carrying my Hi-Lift. Hi-Lift jacks are widow makers IMO and I'll always grab this first. It lifts vertically as opposed to through an arc like a Hi-Lift and, if you have sliders, the fork attachment and an extension works great without having to get under the truck.

It's gone up a lot in price in the last 5 or so years. Although It's a lot of money to spend -- and it's not exactly a small or light weight kit -- it subs for the stock bottle jacks on three lifted trucks, a Hi-Lift, and a floor jack for me. I know a Hi-Lift can do a lot more than just lift trucks but I can still break a bead loose with the bottle jack and I've only ever used a Hi-lift as a winch once and it was a PITA. Also I don't have anywhere to mount a Hi-Lift on the 62 or 200 anyway.

Not funny story: I had a Hi-Lift rattle loose and fall off my 100's swing out on the Trans Canada in Nova Scotia once. I discovered another way a Hi-Lift could kill somebody. Luckily it didn't and I now have a cable lock on it for anti-theft, anti-projectile protection.

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Actually, having used this jack in a Raptor recovery before... it has very limited utility for IFS vehicles. It works great for anything that has solid axles and lifting from the axles, like a Jeep, but it doesn't work for IFS because it has very limited stroke and cannot unload the suspension enough when lifting from the frame. The extensions can't really help in that once you max the extension to the frame, it still can't lift more than 5.25" in stroke.

We have about 9" stock travel on the front suspension. Modified, this can be 10-11" stroke. Any jack solution that lifts from the frame needs to be able to unload most of the suspension travel to lift a tire.

The stock Toyota jack is what saved the day. It's 11" stroke from 8" to 19.375". And weighs only 5.5lbs.
Definitely want a base plate even for the stock bottle jack. We were in sand and this plate came in handy

Amazon product ASIN B07HCF5H38
 
Actually, having used this jack in a Raptor recovery before... it has very limited utility for IFS vehicles. It works great for anything that has solid axles and lifting from the axles, like a Jeep, but it doesn't work for IFS because it has very limited stroke and cannot unload the suspension enough when lifting from the frame. The extensions can't really help in that once you max the extension to the frame, it still can't lift more than 5.25" in stroke.

We have about 9" stock travel on the front suspension. Modified, this can be 10-11" stroke. Any jack solution that lifts from the frame needs to be able to unload most of the suspension travel to lift a tire.

The stock Toyota jack is what saved the day. It's 11" stroke from 8" to 19.375". And weighs only 5.5lbs.
Definitely want a base plate even for the stock bottle jack. We were in sand and this plate came in handy

Amazon product ASIN B07HCF5H38

I keep forgetting to buy one of those!
 
Hmm wasn't aware that the stock bottle has an additional 6" in stroke over the 6-ton I posted.

FWIW the Safe Jack extensions do work with the OE jacks but you do have to knock the post cap off with a hammer.

Those bases are great for Hi-Lift's, bottle jacks, leveler for RTTs, landing pad for trailer nose gear etc. Drill a hole in the edge and attach a recovery rope to it for easy retrieval when it's been smooshed into soft ground.
 
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Hmm wasn't aware that the stock bottle has an additional 6" in stroke over the 6-ton I posted.

FWIW the Safe Jack extensions do work with the OE jacks but you do have to knock the post cap off with a hammer.

We were scratching our heads too during the recovery as we all thought we were using the superior tool. I had those numbers handy as we were comparing notes after getting home. Toyota got it right.

One person was thinking to get this as a tool for home and trail. Stability might be a consideration.

Amazon product ASIN B0BJKDZGQJ
And then there's this but it's a space and weight commitment

 
FWIW the Safe Jack extensions do work with the OE jacks but you do have to knock the post cap off with a hammer.
Like so...:

Just a couple of pinch crimps, not even welds. Put a cold chisel on the cap edge and just knock it off.

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Now the Safe Jack extensions and accessories all fit. Drill the base plate insert, and add some bushings, flush head screws, lock washers and wingnuts:

PXL_20230423_214959380.jpg


And there you have it. Most of the functionality of a Hi-Lift in a compact kit. I've got 4" & 6" extensions. a square lifting pad and fork attachment, and an extendable extension in the bag.

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Before I catch flack for unsafe practices, this is just for illustration, I use the shorter extension and lift from the frame or inner slider rail, not from the outer rub rail.
 
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^Now that's legit!
 
How are you liking that floor jack? Any ragurts?
I'm really happy with it. I'd buy one again in a heartbeat. In fact, I have thought about replacing one of my other floor jacks (I have three of various sizes) with one of the same jacks.
 
Big fan of the HF Daytona too! I also got Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam - https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-64051.html and it's quite helpful to lift the LC using the frame rails.
Are you using that cross beam to lift both sides (front or rear)? i.e. each end of the cross beam on a frame rail to lift both front tires off the ground?

I have the low clearance version of the Daytona and its fine as far as jacks go but I can't lift a corner off the ground by jacking a frame rail or slider without wood blocks or something to get enough height. This is one of the reasons I bought the off-road version of the HF jack. Works great. The only thing I don't like using the off-road jack in the shop is its lack of swivel castors. Its kind of a pain to maneuver it around.
 
I don't have the crossbeam, but I do have the big steel Daytona, and it gets the wheels off the ground, even with the droop of the Kings and 34s. One of my other floor jacks is an aluminum low profile Daytona, and that one doesn't have enough height to get the job done. As a result, I only end up using it on my wife's honda and daughter's ford sedan.
 
I don't have the crossbeam, but I do have the big steel Daytona, and it gets the wheels off the ground, even with the droop of the Kings and 34s. One of my other floor jacks is an aluminum low profile Daytona, and that one doesn't have enough height to get the job done. As a result, I only end up using it on my wife's honda and daughter's ford sedan.
Can you link the exact one you have so I can make sure it has the height to get the LC wheels off the ground?
 
Can you link the exact one you have so I can make sure it has the height to get the LC wheels off the ground?
Sorry, I can't find a part number handy. The label on the jack says "3 Ton Super Duty" and "DJ3000" The box is pictured in the thread above here: Favorite Floor jack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/favorite-floor-jack.1308726/post-14899552

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It might be this one (the label on the yellow picture on their site matches): 3 Ton Low-Profile Super-Duty Floor Jack with RAPID PUMP, Yellow - https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-yellow-63183.html
 
Can you link the exact one you have so I can make sure it has the height to get the LC wheels off the ground?
Make sure to look at the max lift spec. For the one in Charlie's link it shows:
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the off road jack is 29 1/16".
 
Running a OG Harbor freight 3 ton, have had for 7yrs. No issues. Bought the "offroad" 3 ton last year and I FREAKING LOVE IT. I have used it for more than I thought. Since I dont have a garage, I put thing in a shed and drag them back out. The offroad tires have been a god send in themselves for this.
 
Make sure to look at the max lift spec. For the one in Charlie's link it shows:
View attachment 3562080
the off road jack is 29 1/16".
Just to clear the air: I wasn't trying to say it is better than an offroad jack, or lifts as high/higher. It lifts my wheels off the ground and that works for me. It makes sense to me that a jack with a saddle extension post would have a higher max lift height.
 
Are you using that cross beam to lift both sides (front or rear)? i.e. each end of the cross beam on a frame rail to lift both front tires off the ground?

I have the low clearance version of the Daytona and its fine as far as jacks go but I can't lift a corner off the ground by jacking a frame rail or slider without wood blocks or something to get enough height. This is one of the reasons I bought the off-road version of the HF jack. Works great. The only thing I don't like using the off-road jack in the shop is its lack of swivel castors. Its kind of a pain to maneuver it around.
I'll go one flank/side at a time given BOF construction and SLOW with raising second side to make it level/ placing second pair of jack stands.

My (aluminum) skids don't allow for normal front jacking point access while in place. Which would be ideal comparatively.
 
I get lazy and jack the front up from the middle of the stainless Budbuilt skids. They're like tank armor. :)
 

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