Hi-Lift states ~175-lbs of force to lift the rated 4660lb, so more like ~165-lbs at 4400lbs (note the top 12" of the 60" are only rated at 2660lbs per Hi-Lift). I think their rating is assuming a pull from the very end of the handle, gaining the most mechanical advantage, which is not always practical or safe. Worth noting the ARB only goes to 48" so the reduced 2660 load of the Hi-Lift at 48-60" is still a win. That said, I've never believed there is a 2000 lb capacity loss from 48" to 49" on the 60" Hi-Lift, simply can't math. They are all 'Rated' at a lift of 4660lbs 'and tested' to 7000lbs, so think of it more like a WLL/SWL and MBS/MTS relationship. Note that the shear bolt (they call safety bolt) is designed to fail at 7000lbs which is still before the climbing pins or other parts fail, which could/would drop the load. I.e. it shears and stays put. I don't have a handle force number on the ARB but I'm going to guess 50-60 lbs @ 4400lb. Easy enough to test if I get a minute.
With the Hi-Lift, the human operating the jack is the only thing keeping that 170 lbs of force from clubbing anything in it's way as it is in between engagement of the climbing pins, hence why they can be very dangerous when used incorrectly. Ever seen a Hi-Lift auto ratchet the entire load to the ground with the handle flopping back and forth faster than your eyes can track. It's a fun class demoThe hydraulic high range options, the Tauler, etc all wouldn't have handle feedback if you slip or let go... or simply can't physically push down harder.
I use straps to limit suspension movement regulary. On my SOA FJ40, I only carry a 48" High Lift. I can quickly strap F/R axles on one side betwen the frame and the axle housing and lift from the slider to bring both tires off the ground.
Oh yeah. I broke the windshield out of a old ex FedEx box truck we had many years ago changing a tire with a high lift. Let it go on the way down and the handle flew off about 20 feet in the air and came down right in the middle of the windshield and smashed it up pretty good. Didn't go through, but totally ruined it. I haven't thought about that in a long time. There really should be a safety mechanism to stop that. Something like a coat over the handle might be enough. You might be convincing me of the value of a safer jack. A windshield or a door skin replacement starts to cancel out some of the savings of the high lift...
For limit straps - now I'm thinking I should maybe have one. What are you using for a strap? I think a "whoopie sling" from a piece of uhmw rope that can adjust to the front or rear shock would be a good way to go that wouldn't weigh much or take up space and could be easy to install and remove. Plus they're just kinda handy to have around. I keep a handful on my sailboat for general use, but never really put any in my offroad vehicles. Can also double as a soft shackle if you use big enough rope. I think we're going to have to rename them before they get any traction in the offroad world.
Not sure where whoopie sling came from, but that's the only thing I've ever heard them called. Maybe just "quick adjust rope loop" or something? haha.
It should be easy to just put the loops around the top and bottom shock mounts on pretty much any rear Toyota axle. The IFS is a little trickier because of the leverage ratio - A heavy 700lb/in coil compressed 5 inches would mean 3500lb of tension while you worked on it. And need to find a good place to loop around from the top hat down to the LCA where it's not going to be on sharp corners.
