Malleus
Far west of Siegen
According to what I read in the "operation"section, it does move back and forth, all the time. Maybe that's why it fails; it's tired. 
Yeah, did that, too.
Yeah, did that, too.
Faulty 1FZ-FE Idle Speed Control Valve / IAC (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter ozarkmud
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If I might continue this thread a year later…
When you remove your IAC valve to clean it how do you reset it? The FSM does not talk about resetting the IAC.
Should the valve be all the way open, retracted or in the closed position, all the way extended or left somewhere in the middle.
There are a number of videos that show resetting the IAC by resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery or by turning the ignition on and off in a particular sequence. This resets the IAC?
Any thoughts?
When you remove your IAC valve to clean it how do you reset it? The FSM does not talk about resetting the IAC.
Should the valve be all the way open, retracted or in the closed position, all the way extended or left somewhere in the middle.
There are a number of videos that show resetting the IAC by resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery or by turning the ignition on and off in a particular sequence. This resets the IAC?
Any thoughts?
The IAC does not need to be reset, but you should pull the ECU fuse to reset the computer that controls it. When I put mine back together I left it somewhere in the middle between fully open and fully closed.
Under the hood over by the battery, in the fuse box. There is a label on the top showing where the ECU fuse is inside that box. It's called "EFI".
94, pairs and egr delete. I'm pulling my TB soon because I have a leaky VC gasket. Guess it was pinched during install last year and I've just been putting off replacing it.
But now that it's cold, I often have a really high cold start idle that takes a lot longer than I'd expect to come down.
Like 1800-1900rpms and eventually settling to 1200 after a few minutes. If I leave it long enough it will settle to 700rpm.
I don't think it's a tight throttle body cable but I can pull that off and see if it still does it.
I finally replaced the brake booster which was an unexpected vacuum leak that was causing a low idle in the past and it had been running perfect until winter finally hit here.
Just concerned that the high idle when cold is gonna cause unnecessary wear.
But now that it's cold, I often have a really high cold start idle that takes a lot longer than I'd expect to come down.
Like 1800-1900rpms and eventually settling to 1200 after a few minutes. If I leave it long enough it will settle to 700rpm.
I don't think it's a tight throttle body cable but I can pull that off and see if it still does it.
I finally replaced the brake booster which was an unexpected vacuum leak that was causing a low idle in the past and it had been running perfect until winter finally hit here.
Just concerned that the high idle when cold is gonna cause unnecessary wear.
I'm struggling with the same problem..
At this point I wondered; When I removed the shaft from the rotor, I saw that the plastic shaft end was slightly crosswise, as if it was broken. In other words, the end is not straight, Is this normal? Is the shaft sitting idle at the base inside the rotor, I am trying to understand if mine is broken.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Having a hard time picturing that; maybe you can help?
IIRC, there isn't anything that doesn't appear to be inline with the axis of the rotor.
@Bigtoepfer did you ever solve your high idle issue? Sounds exactly like what I'm dealing with
I did. Cleaned out the passage for the IAC and just kind of cleaned the plunger a bit.
Haven't had an issue in about 2-3000 miles.
Haven't had an issue in about 2-3000 miles.
