RCFloyd said:
Fram is probably the largest oil filter brand in the world, or damn close. Ask around how their product stacks up.
-Spike
Fan clutch solves overheating
- Thread starter landtank
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Fram is probably the largest oil filter brand in the world, or damn close. Ask around how their product stacks up.
-Spike
Apples and Oranges Spike. I'm no expert on T-Stat's either, but it's not a good analogy.
Rob
Rob
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cary said:
In the cruder designed clutches the valve is either full on or off, or a couple of steps, when they are "on" you will hear them. The blue hub has a stepless progressive valve, the valve will open or close slightly as needed to maintain an even air flow temp and may never be fully "on" unless needed. This would seam to be better than a setup that senses heat, turns on full blast, clicks off, repeat, making a stepped heat profile?
RCFloyd said:
Ok. Not sure why, but I guess it doesn't matter. Two products that are very well known, one of which isn't nearly as good as most people think it is. The other, I have no idea, I just know that it looks crappy. Probably works fine for X# miles, what if I forget to change it then? I'll take the one that looks as if it were designed better, if that's all I have to go by.
-Spike
Edit to add: I've Googled 'Stant thermostat problems' and found... none.
-S
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Well I'll just say that we unknowingly put a Hayden unit from Advanced Auto on my sisters about a year ago. When I had it at my house working on the birfields and a/c amongst other things, I did noticed that it "roared" much more and seemed to pull more air then the stock unit on mine. I was leery about using a non-oem part, but looks like we did one better and didn't even know it.
alia176
SILVER Star
I swapped out the 150k fan clutch with a new OEM clutch and immediately noticed the "roaring" sound. The OEM unit was prolly dying a slow death and that's why I didn't notice the "roaring" sound on startup.
- Thread starter
- #27
As I understand it the roaring sound on startup is from the fluid with in the clutch being cold, so it's thicker and transmits drive to the fan.
During this initial startup the oil begins to warn and thin out to where the valve can control drive to the fan.
If you get no roar on startup there is an issue with the oil as not having enough or it has broken down from use.
Since my fan roared on startup, I suspect there was enough oil but something with the valve was bad. I checked the temp spring on the outside and it was clean and intact. Once I'm comfortable with my truck running in hot weather I'll probably tear down the OEM clutch to see what is going on in there.
During this initial startup the oil begins to warn and thin out to where the valve can control drive to the fan.
If you get no roar on startup there is an issue with the oil as not having enough or it has broken down from use.
Since my fan roared on startup, I suspect there was enough oil but something with the valve was bad. I checked the temp spring on the outside and it was clean and intact. Once I'm comfortable with my truck running in hot weather I'll probably tear down the OEM clutch to see what is going on in there.
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landtank said:
The roaring is from the oil leaking out of the reservoir into the active part of the clutch when sitting. Some designs leak more than others. The oil works better, is capable of transferring more power when warm.
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From Hayden's site;
Q. My fan clutch makes a loud noise when started cold. Is that normal?
A. Yes, most fan clutches allow the fluid to drain into the working area when shut down. At startup it may take 1-2 minutes for the clutch to slow down.
Q. My fan clutch makes a loud noise when started cold. Is that normal?
A. Yes, most fan clutches allow the fluid to drain into the working area when shut down. At startup it may take 1-2 minutes for the clutch to slow down.
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, my understanding comes from a college classroom back in 1978.
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landtank said:
I don't know how much was known about silicone viscous couplings in '78, they were very new, but if you say they covered them then that's cool.
- Thread starter
- #32
At least I think I remember them covering them.
From what I remember thats why Junk went thru so many motors. Also after replacing a stuck fan clutch my oil pressure droped as well. You could be on to somthing.
semlin
curmudgeon
well as some of you know, I've been having a lesser version of Landtank's issues with my truck since the head gasket replacement when i added a new blue fan clutch and oem t-star. i also have the raventai modded temp gauge. I find I run fine towards the middle on level grade but recently i heat up on even steady small grades way more than I was doing two months ago when the fan clutch was new and i drove to moab and took some long sustained hills on hot days. Today with AC on an 32 degrees celsius/90 degree farewnheit outside temps and towing an 800 lb trailer and maybe 400 lbs of camping satuff and kids I ran 200 degreeson a 20 mile flat highway run into town followed by a short 8 block 7% grade at 35 mph that pushed it to 210-212. no roar at all. When i stopped the truck and idled the fan clutch was inaudible. no resistance to turning when motor stopped.
So as an experiment I switched out my old original fan clutch for the blue one one I put in about 3500 miles ago. It did not all make the difference I was hoping for in a test drive, but it was a definite improvement of maybe 5-8 degrees over the blue clutch similar driving conditions. I am also definitely hearing the old fan roaring under acceleration on hills, something I have never heard from the blue fan clutch. It could be this graduated feature on the blue clutch I guess but it is reassuring to hear that noise and i can see the difference on the temp gauge.
Anyway, I seem to have the problem half solved for now. I will wait for a road test report with this heavy duty hayden clutch before going for the full fix.
So as an experiment I switched out my old original fan clutch for the blue one one I put in about 3500 miles ago. It did not all make the difference I was hoping for in a test drive, but it was a definite improvement of maybe 5-8 degrees over the blue clutch similar driving conditions. I am also definitely hearing the old fan roaring under acceleration on hills, something I have never heard from the blue fan clutch. It could be this graduated feature on the blue clutch I guess but it is reassuring to hear that noise and i can see the difference on the temp gauge.
Anyway, I seem to have the problem half solved for now. I will wait for a road test report with this heavy duty hayden clutch before going for the full fix.
LandTank - How much resistance should the fan have (OEM)? I was hoping this might be the solution to my radiator problem. I checked mine out the other day after a long slow haul up a 4x4 track towing a trailer and atv. The radiator was boiling on shut down. I lost about 3/4 of a gallon on the trail/drive. I tried spinning the fan and it had resistance, allowing it to spin only to the next couple of fan blades. My stock temp guage never moved above mid point. As per my previous post I'll be doing a flush/cap and thermistat change this week.
- Thread starter
- #37
Jenny Cruiser said:
In that condition I'd expect no coast in the fan at all. So if you gave it a shove it would immediately stop when you let go of it. I've done this before on some of my older cars and that is how the fan clutch behaved. Since I'm just now dealing with it on my LC I can't be sure that you can expect this from our clutches.
- Thread starter
- #38
locrwln1 said:
I'd go for the Hayden clutch over the Imperial. Not sure about Auotzone but Pepboys are supposed to deal with Hayden fan clutches.
