Fan clutch solves overheating

[Gauge]

From their FAQ they make three grades of clutches, their catalog page is down right now, so don't know if they are all available for the LC?

Q. What is the difference between a standard, heavy and severe duty fan clutch?
A. Each fan clutch type is designed to simulate the performance of the original equipment clutch that it replaces. All fan clutches are for specific applications and should be applied only on the application for which they are cataloged.

* Standard Duty Thermal
Turns the fan 50-60% of shaft speed when engaged. Used with fans with lighter pitch fans. (1-1/2" of pitch) Flat plate impeller design with 30 Sq. In. of working surface.
* Heavy-Duty Thermal
Turns the fan 80-90% of the shaft speed when engaged for increased cooling. Used with deeper pitch fans. (2 1/2" of pitch). Land and groove design with 47 Sq. In. of working area allows higher operating RPM's.
* Severe Duty Thermal
Turns the fan 80-90% of the shaft speed when engaged. Used with deeper pitch fans. (2- 1/2" of pitch). Land and groove design with 65 Sq. In. of working area. Larger working surface provides cooler running and longer life expectancy.

The Standard, Heavy and Severe duty clutches are only available on Domestic vehicles. They only offer one grade of clutch for Import vehicles - whether it is standard, heavy or severe is anyone's guess.

 

[e9999]

LandTank - How much resistance should the fan have (OEM)? I was hoping this might be the solution to my radiator problem. I checked mine out the other day after a long slow haul up a 4x4 track towing a trailer and atv. The radiator was boiling on shut down. I lost about 3/4 of a gallon on the trail/drive. I tried spinning the fan and it had resistance, allowing it to spin only to the next couple of fan blades. My stock temp guage never moved above mid point. As per my previous post I'll be doing a flush/cap and thermistat change this week.

there is a lengthy thread out there on testing the resistance and doing the "grab and hold and lose fingers" test.

 

[landtank]

What about NAPA? I get a better deal there anyway. I'll see what brand they carry.

When I talked with Napa they didn't know the manufacturer and it was going to be 7 days for delivery. Since this was for trouble swapping I elected to go with what I could get the earliest.

 

[landtank]

there is a lengthy thread out there on testing the resistance and doing the "grab and hold and lose fingers" test.

That is not needed if you know that you are already in an overheated state. The test is for when the truck is running at correct temps and you physically stop the fan to put the engine in an over heated state.

 

[landtank]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=79661

too bad the pics are gone, It would have been a good read.

 

[e9999]

That is not needed if you know that you are already in an overheated state. The test is for when the truck is running at correct temps and you physically stop the fan to put the engine in an over heated state.

no, it's for finding out if your clutch is good

 

[landtank]

no, it's for finding out if your clutch is good

How would you know if it's engaging at the correct time? If it does lock up but it is late you still need a clutch.

 

[bigbrowndog]

too bad the pics are gone, It would have been a good read.

Hi, They show when I click on it. What do I need to do to fix it?cheers gazza

 

[bigbrowndog]

 

[bigbrowndog]

 

[bigbrowndog]

 

[Tools R Us]

too bad the pics are gone, It would have been a good read.

The pix work for me. That's an old style clutch without the ribs that add surface area for better shearing and has a fixed valve plate. I would not add fluid to a clutch, I would drain and refill. If the old fluid is broken down and not shearing correctly, what is it going to do to the new fluid? The big question is, how much is required for a correct fill? You want just enough to fill the reservoir, anymore and it will be on all of the time?

Some pix of a blue hub.

 

[Tools R Us]

bigbrowndog, what year is that clutch?

 

[bigbrowndog]

Topping them up is done by Toyota and workshops here. The fan I have shown in the pics can take 14 tubes of silicone oil which would then cost more than a new hub without any labor cost involved.

 

[RCFloyd]

I called the 'local' Toy stealership, and they couldn't (wouldn't?) dig up a part # for the Silicone Oil, and said that this was an antiquated method of solving this problem! Right-O, $7 vs $150+/-... I guess that we do indeed live in a 'throw-away world' now, and I'm 'antiquated' for wanting to fix something. Sad commentary...

Any part #'s for this stuff in the USA guys, or do I need to bother CDan on this one?

TIA,
Robert

 

[bigbrowndog]

That fan clutch is off a 1988 2H diesel,the fan clutch on my 80 is ok. I checked out the HJ75 clutch after fitting the turbo but found the radiator was not 100% although it was ok before fitting the turbo.cheers

 

[bigbrowndog]

I called the 'local' Toy stealership, and they couldn't (wouldn't?) dig up a part # for the Silicone Oil, and said that this was an antiquated method of solving this problem! Right-O, $7 vs $150+/-... I guess that we do indeed live in a 'throw-away world' now, and I'm 'antiquated' for wanting to fix something. Sad commentary...

Any part #'s for this stuff in the USA guys, or do I need to bother CDan on this one?

TIA,
Robert

The pic of the oil and part number is in the link I posted.cheers gazza




These pics show the body separated and that the oil level is down and needs filling.Silicone oil part no 0881610001 is used to replenish the existing oil. It comes in small tubes of 18 ml. app cost $10.00.The housing can hold somewhere near 10 tubes of oil so if it is empty it would not be economical to refill it and would most likely be a write off anyway.As the oil is poured in the housing should be rotated to let out all the air bubbles

 

[bigbrowndog]

I called the 'local' Toy stealership, and they couldn't (wouldn't?) dig up a part # for the Silicone Oil, and said that this was an antiquated method of solving this problem! Right-O, $7 vs $150+/-... I guess that we do indeed live in a 'throw-away world' now, and I'm 'antiquated' for wanting to fix something. Sad commentary...

Any part #'s for this stuff in the USA guys, or do I need to bother CDan on this one?

TIA,
Robert

Before I did mine I asked my mate who has owned and operated a large 4WD repair shop for many years for some advise. The short of it was along these lines. They often need topping up. If it is obvious it is leaking buy a new one also if it needs more than 4 tubes of oil I advise my customer to fit a new one.If the Bi Metal spring is not working buy a new fan also a leak will be shown as a black sticky mess around the hub.
Extra to this not his advise. I have seen these fans fixed [no pun] by using tank bolts, large self tapping screws and silicone , but the fan itself is not designed to operate at really high revs because of the large amount of air it pulls.cheers

 

[Tools R Us]

The US factory fill is 3,000cts part# 08816-03001. The heavy duty is 10,000cts 08818-15000. I have also used 6,000cts but don't have the number.

 

[tech_dog]

Fan clutch as PM? From everything I've read lately this could be money well spent.

What's a fan clutch cost, and why not just go with OEM?