Fan Clutch R&R help

[flintknapper]

Bump. So my fan stays on all the time. It seems like it is locked to the engine's RPM, faster I go, louder it gets, noticeable power loss. I ordered a new ASIN clutch, but for the life of me I can't break the 4 bolts off. I used two 12MM wrenches, one to hold it in place while the other tries to break it loose.

I even tried to use a cheater bar, seems like I'm starting to strip the nuts. How did you guys manage to break it loose?

You might spray them down well with a penetrating oil and let sit overnight. Mine were tight (and there isn't much room to work in there), but I used a long screwdriver (across two points) to hold the fan still and a ratcheting wrench to break the nuts loose. Be careful not to damage the stud threads when you get down to the last one or two. I put a piece of electrical tape over the ones where I had removed the nuts.

 

[Mike NXP]

Trying to diagnose a cold weather squeak I've got going on in the engine bay. Starts up after 10-15 seconds of idling and goes away after warm and driving
>>2002 - 2UZ

Tensioner puller and idler pulley are new OEM, power steering is new OEM and after spinning other pulleys they all seem smooth and in working condition. Belt is new OEM.

Which leads me to trying to diagnose my fan clutch, is there a bearing in there?

With engine off, cold, It spins smoothly with some resistance, probably spins a 1/8 rotation every time I give it a go. But after about half way through it's spin, it does feel to be a bit looser / not as much resistance. No wobble and seems tight.


What would be next steps in diagnosing this issue. I will pop belt off to eliminate any concern with timing belt / pulleys next. Any other ideas?

 

[flintknapper]

Trying to diagnose a cold weather squeak I've got going on in the engine bay. Starts up after 10-15 seconds of idling and goes away after warm and driving
>>2002 - 2UZ

Tensioner puller and idler pulley are new OEM, power steering is new OEM and after spinning other pulleys they all seem smooth and in working condition. Belt is new OEM.

Which leads me to trying to diagnose my fan clutch, is there a bearing in there?

With engine off, cold, It spins smoothly with some resistance, probably spins a 1/8 rotation every time I give it a go. But after about half way through it's spin, it does feel to be a bit looser / not as much resistance. No wobble and seems tight.


What would be next steps in diagnosing this issue. I will pop belt off to eliminate any concern with timing belt / pulleys next. Any other ideas?

Not likely your fan clutch. If it feels tight and has no wobble and doesn't leak then it is the least likely source. You might check your serpentine belt, if it is old the ribs might be glazed. But I would suspect your alternator could be making an intermittent noise, fan bracket is another one that can squeak for a bit then stop.

These things are hard to diagnose. Sometimes pulling the serpentine belt and doing a 'cold start'...letting the engine idle for a couple of minutes will tell you if the noise is coming from the components on the front of the engine (or belt itself) or if its something deeper (water pump, tensioner, idler, etc).

 

[Mike NXP]

Not likely your fan clutch. If it feels tight and has no wobble and doesn't leak then it is the least likely source. You might check your serpentine belt, if it is old the ribs might be glazed. But I would suspect your alternator could be making an intermittent noise, fan bracket is another one that can squeak for a bit then stop.

These things are hard to diagnose. Sometimes pulling the serpentine belt and doing a 'cold start'...letting the engine idle for a couple of minutes will tell you if the noise is coming from the components on the front of the engine (or belt itself) or if its something deeper (water pump, tensioner, idler, etc).

Good advice, thanks. When spinning by hand all other pulleys seem nice, slight spin with some resistance and no noise. Its weird that it starts squeaking after 15-20 seconds and not right off the rip . As for the belt it's pretty new OEM but maybe I got some goop on it when replacing tensioner pulley.


I'm inclined to stop caring about it for a little and see what happens

 

[flintknapper]

Good advice, thanks. When spinning by hand all other pulleys seem nice, slight spin with some resistance and no noise. Its weird that it starts squeaking after 15-20 seconds and not right off the rip . As for the belt it's pretty new OEM but maybe I got some goop on it when replacing tensioner pulley.


I'm inclined to stop caring about it for a little and see what happens

Probably best. Alternator bearing(s) can make a little noise when a load is first imposed on the unit (first charging of battery after engine start) is the reason I mentioned it. You can check that by applying a heavy electrical draw (high beams) on and off and listen for a whining sound or a squeak/squeal. Who knows.

 

[DoneThoo2]

Can anyone tell me if I am just removing the blue part from the pulley or the pulley as well?

 

[flintknapper]

Just the Blue Part, the 'pulley' can stay put.

 

[DoneThoo2]

Thanks, I got it off about 3 min ago.

 

[Rpreme]

I’m getting ready to replace my fan clutch and fan blade. Do I also need to replace the Fan clutch bearing bracket as well? Or can I get away with replacing the fan clutch and fan assembly only?

Thanks for any feedback

 

[flintknapper]

I’m getting ready to replace my fan clutch and fan blade. Do I also need to replace the Fan clutch bearing bracket as well? Or can I get away with replacing the fan clutch and fan assembly only?

Thanks for any feedback

IF your fan bracket turns smoothly (no play in the bearing, no roughness or noises) then you should be OK just replacing the fan clutch. IF the fan bracket is the original and you have high mileage you might consider replacing it, but you'll be pretty deep into the front of the engine to do so.

In my case....I was doing the timing belt and water pump anyway, so replacing it seemed the wise thing to do.

 

[SDCORT]

^^^^^^ Yeah, that's what I did with mine too. Just loosened the shroud and removed the top radiator hose. Placed a piece of cardboard over the radiator then was able to wiggle the fan and clutch out together. Reinstall the same way.

Hardest part is getting the four nuts started back on the studs. There isn't much room in there.

How much fluid came out when you removed the top hose ? Or did you drain the radiator first ?

 

[gregnash]

How much fluid came out when you removed the top hose ? Or did you drain the radiator first ?

No need to remove the upper rad hose. It will take some patience but you can snake it out with a little elbow grease. Just be patient and work it out.

 

[SDCORT]

No need to remove the upper rad hose. It will take some patience but you can snake it out with a little elbow grease. Just be patient and work it out.

I tried last night for an hour and deemed it impossible. I am amazed that you could get it out without taking anything else apart.

 

[gregnash]

I tried last night for an hour and deemed it impossible. I am amazed that you could get it out without taking anything else apart.

Yeah only thing that needs to come off is the airbox to gain access but otherwise it was just snaking it out. If I remember correctly it takes a bit of wobbling back and forth and then once you get the blades up to the upper rad hose you kind of have to put the hose between two blades and then rotate and twist it out.

 

[PabloCruise]

^^^^^^ Yeah, that's what I did with mine too. Just loosened the shroud and removed the top radiator hose. Placed a piece of cardboard over the radiator then was able to wiggle the fan and clutch out together. Reinstall the same way.

Hardest part is getting the four nuts started back on the studs. There isn't much room in there.

Thanks for confirming @flintknapper
I started this yesterday ran out of time when I suspected the top hose had to be disconnected.

 

[PabloCruise]

Yeah only thing that needs to come off is the airbox to gain access but otherwise it was just snaking it out. If I remember correctly it takes a bit of wobbling back and forth and then once you get the blades up to the upper rad hose you kind of have to put the hose between two blades and then rotate and twist it out.

Really?
I tried, but so far have failed.

 

[bestday99LC]

I just did this yesterday and I struggled with getting the 4 bolts off. I hit it with some PB blaster and then was able to get one off but then my neighbor came to the rescue with good pry bars and he was able to get the rest off. A large flat head screw driver may work too.

After reading this forum and other posts about the issue and watching Chow's video on YouTube I thought I was going to take the radiator hose off but the fan and clutch came out surprisingly easy with only the air box removed. Yea, you have to wiggle it around a bit but it came out and went in with little issue.

 

[abuck99]

Did this over the weekend- pulled the fan and clutch together with only removing the air intake resonator- but struggled to reinstall the way it came out- spent an hour playing Tetris to wiggle it back in; just about everything to avoid removing the radiator hose and shroud. I ended up removing the top hose, reservoir, and pushing the shroud forward and sliding fan/clutch in behind the shroud.

If someone can instal with out doing that please film it so I can see the trick.

Fan clutch removal tips for next time- thin smear a good high temp grease on the nub of the water pump, and the relief inside the mounting surface- makes it easier to separate it from the water pump pulley next time.

 

[2001LC]

If someone can instal with out doing that please film it so I can see the trick.

Just a pian, hitting just the right angles. It needs some force and turning to various points, as work back down, holding fan blade away from radiator fins. I find moving hose clamp helps, in some cases. More so on the 06-07 with it's larger fan clutch.

Fan clutch removal tips for next time- thin smear a good high temp grease on the nub of the water pump, and the relief inside the mounting surface- makes it easier to separate it from the water pump pulley next time.

Good thinking. I too, always add grease here. to fan bracket shaft nub and female end in clutch.

I've trick, when removing a fan clutch that's stuck on fan bracket:
Place the 4 nuts, at end of threads of fan bracket studs. This is to protect, the threads of studs. Then with the use of two pry bars. Place pry bars on nuts, of opposite sides on fan clutch. Walk it off, with pry bars. Prying again nuts using old fan clutch as backstop (pry off of).

Some will pound a wedge, between fan bracket and fan clutch mount. This often damages fan bracket. Or pry of pulley, which can damage pulley. I do not!

I've a great tool for breaking and torquing fan clutch to bracket nuts (16ft-lbf 98-05, 21ft-lbf 06-07). Saves my knuckles. But before I had the tool. I use two 12mm box end wrenches. One to hold on nut wrench shaft held against the fan clutch mounting shaft. The other wrench, to turn a nut.

I love this fan clutch hold tool.

I use blue (medium) thread sealer on the 10mm studs, holding fan blade to clutch, torque to ~60 INCH-lbf. (75 INCH-lbf w/o thread sealer (lube))