Fan belt change issues

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Joined
May 5, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
12
Location
Raleigh, NC
I have years of automotive repair, modification, customization, etc work under my belt. I read the 20 min belt change thread, and dove in. I can't for the life of me get these new belts on. Not sure if AutoZone belts are wrong, or if the fan/water pump pulley was changed. I have a 93, I'm assuming early manufactured as it still has the r12 ac system. Any chance the pulley is different? Alternatively anyone live near 40/42 south of Raleigh that can bring an 80 over to compare? Any insight is helpful.
 
I have years of automotive repair, modification, customization, etc work under my belt. I read the 20 min belt change thread, and dove in. I can't for the life of me get these new belts on. Not sure if AutoZone belts are wrong, or if the fan/water pump pulley was changed. I have a 93, I'm assuming early manufactured as it still has the r12 ac system. Any chance the pulley is different? Alternatively anyone live near 40/42 south of Raleigh that can bring an 80 over to compare? Any insight is helpful.
Why not use the oem belts? They have the correct cross section and diameter and they are very reasonably priced. The belts that are corrugated on the inner diameter will make noise in the pully's.

I have 93 and 94 models and there are no differences in the belt drive set up. Perhaps you don't have the alternator moved over toward the engine ALL the way.
 
not sure of a 93, but the idler pulley is on the inside of the belt right? someone here last week was trying to replicate the idiot PO's incorrect work of taking half a wrap around the idler pulley with a larger belt
 
The idler pulley is flat and the outside (flat) section should roll over it. The alternator looks to be all the way in, I'll triple check it to make sure it doesn't have junk jammed in the swing slot. I chose aftermarket belts since they were in stock.
 
youre welcome :)

oh, and cuz dis aint no chevy. less friction, contact area, strain on belt and pulley. and cause it can.
 
I don't see a reason there's even a pulley, even less friction. That's how Honda does it. That's how Nissan does it. My last Toyota didn't have one like this either. The idle pulley looks to be there in case the belts slack.
 
I don't see a reason there's even a pulley, even less friction. That's how Honda does it. That's how Nissan does it. My last Toyota didn't have one like this either. The idle pulley looks to be there in case the belts slack.

Kinda what I was thinking too. Idler might be there to dampen vibration. Idk
 
Plenty of owners remove it when the bearing craps out and never put it back on.
 
But isn't it cool how Toyota gave us two drive belts. They new we may be in the center of a middle eastern desert or Brazilian rainforest and would rather us get stranded after two belts broke instead of one. Now that's cool.
 
But isn't it cool how Toyota gave us two drive belts. They new we may be in the center of a middle eastern desert or Brazilian rainforest and would rather us get stranded after two belts broke instead of one. Now that's cool.
My 1978 Dodge Ramcharger also had dual belts. That and the 440 made them
Ideal for use by the border patrol. :hillbilly:
 
Incorrect 'routing' of the dual belts is a very common mistake.

We should probably have a 'sticky' in the FAQ section for this.

You are far from the first person to make that mistake.

Glad you got it worked out.
 
Incorrect 'routing' of the dual belts is a very common mistake.

An excellent well experienced mechanic (self proclaimed GM man) I use told me the same thing a few days ago...."The flat side of belt is supposed to ride on the other side of pulley."
I very politely mentioned to him that had been discussed quite a bit among cruiserheads and I do believe it is correct as shown. He was also polite and humble about it and was not ashamed to concede to my internet knowledge. Haa
 
Dur. Just looked at a belt diagram. Why does the v side of the belt ride on a flat pulley? This makes 0 sense.

I spent like two hours trying to route the belt like you did, it's how the previous piece-of-crap mechanic did it. What a fun afternoon that was.
 
you have two ONSC members right by you if you need to peek at another 80
garnerfj40 and greenhellmustang


definitely easiest to put them on as they should go and not how the PO had them routed.... juut found the same thing here
BTW ONSC members get a discount at fred anderson toyota if you have small need that wouldnt warrant a Beno or other vendor order
 
I did my belts (NAPA brand) a few weeks ago for the first time and I would agree it was much more difficult than I expected. The mistake I made was removing the alternator bolts all the way to remove the old belts and not putting them back in part way before adding the new belts.

The most useful tool of the job was a 1 foot 3/8 socket extension to pry the new belts onto the idler pulley. The extension is smooth enough the belt can be pried and slide down into place. When I was close I would hit the starter (coil disengaged) to spin the engine so the belt could land in place.
 
I did my belts (NAPA brand) a few weeks ago for the first time and I would agree it was much more difficult than I expected. The mistake I made was removing the alternator bolts all the way to remove the old belts and not putting them back in part way before adding the new belts.

The most useful tool of the job was a 1 foot 3/8 socket extension to pry the new belts onto the idler pulley. The extension is smooth enough the belt can be pried and slide down into place. When I was close I would hit the starter (coil disengaged) to spin the engine so the belt could land in place.


FYI: Doing this CAN cut the belts.

The belts should slide over the pulleys (by hand). If not, then you need to loosen the alternator more. The PO of my truck had removed the idler pulley, removed the alternator adjusting bolts, and used aftermarket cogged V-belts.

The belts failed suddenly, causing a sudden spike in temperature and pressure in the radiator, causing it to explode. (Yes, the top split linear right down the middle....I thought I blew a tire, as it was that loud)

So, I bought all new adjuster with bolts, new Toyota Belts, New idler pulley and got it all back on and it works beautifully.

The purpose of the idler is to reduce the belt slap when the AC kicks on/off and the engine RPM changes suddenly. No, it doesn't run on the AC belt, but it helps control the slap on the alternator belts.
 
I did my belts (NAPA brand) a few weeks ago for the first time and I would agree it was much more difficult than I expected. The mistake I made was removing the alternator bolts all the way to remove the old belts and not putting them back in part way before adding the new belts.

The most useful tool of the job was a 1 foot 3/8 socket extension to pry the new belts onto the idler pulley. The extension is smooth enough the belt can be pried and slide down into place. When I was close I would hit the starter (coil disengaged) to spin the engine so the belt could land in place.

I used oem belts (94) and they were 30 seconds to pop on each. I've heard the generics are a bit tighter, for whatever that's worth.
 
as i have just purchased the vehicle and the previous owner didnt to regular maintenance to it i need to get it cleaned up for an inspection. oem belts will be purchased soon, but i only had this passed weekend to do under the hood stuff so i had to go with in stock items. just as ill be purchasing a used tire to get it inspected. i didnt realize the inspection was going to be due right after purchase, as every other vehicle ive bought has had a year to go. the a/c belt i have is in good shape, but a cog belt. the new one i purchased didnt want to fit even with the tentioner pulley out of the equation all together. i put the other one back on until i buy toyota parts. im glad im not the only one thats had issues with this, as i was really doubting the past 20ish years of working on cars. lol
 

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