Builds Family haulin' (7 Viewers)

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Sorry guys, I just keep getting further behind with posting up. I'm working on our home NAS where I'm storing all the pictures and am working out the settings.

Just to answer the little teaser by Esh I bent my front axle housing on a pre-run for our club's event almost two months ago. The quick version is I'm working on a Dana60 front axle swap right now. I've got the D60 almost completely torn down and am starting on pulling out the cruiser axle. I'll be parting the cruiser axle to help lessen the blow of swapping over.
 
boots4 said:
Sorry guys, I just keep getting further behind with posting up. I'm working on our home NAS where I'm storing all the pictures and am working out the settings.

Just to answer the little teaser by Esh I bent my front axle housing on a pre-run for our club's event almost two months ago. The quick version is I'm working on a Dana60 front axle swap right now. I've got the D60 almost completely torn down and am starting on pulling out the cruiser axle. I'll be parting the cruiser axle to help lessen the blow of swapping over.
Click to expand...

It was only a matter of time.

:popcorn:
 
brokenparts said:
It was only a matter of time.
Click to expand...

I should get you over here since I'm sure you remember how fun it is to move around the heavy beast. BTW do you happen to have a 7/8 allen wrench to remove the kingpins? I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace those since there does appear to be some wear on them. Not looking forward to this part as I've read they are in there pretty good.
 
I'd love to give you a hand sometime Mike. Really miss my old cruiser and work days with you. My daughter's soccer season ends pretty quick and that will free up some time. In the mean time, I do have the allen keys for the kingpin (they are the insert type). I'll just sent them to you. PM me your address and I can get them out Monday. I also have that oxy/ace torch if you want some heat.

This is the type:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2069387-king-pin-removal-tool.html

I also make a note that I've been casually shopping for an fj45. :)
 
That's great! I'll give you a call tonight. Is your number still the same?
 
Update

I finally got my home file server fixed and updated so that way I can get my photos uploaded. I think the last place I left off with was prep for Cruise Moab earlier this year. I changed the rear shackle angle and length to firm it up a tad. Here's what I'm running now. I'm liking it better than before.

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I also set up my 4" exhaust. I kept it 3" for my downpipe and then converted to 4" after that.

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I had a few crossmembers to clear but nothing rubs at least that I can tell.

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I wanted to run a muffler to take out the raspy-ness of the open 3" with my little cummins. I researched and decided on a straight-through 4" MBRP. It ended up being a tight fit for where I wanted to put it.

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I bought a bunch of exhaust hangers and tied things up much better than my last system.

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Finished it off with a slight downturn. All the piping came from a buddy who swapped his truck out to 5" stuff. There where nice mandrel bends to play with. It had a chrome 5" tip but I decided 4" on a 4 cylinder diesel was ridiculous enough.

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Overall it got rid of the raspy-ness but still has good tone when I get on it. It gave it a little more bass. I noticed it did help my EGTs a little too. These pics where taken after the Moab trip and I scraped the trip just a little bit playing in the slick rock but not enough to worry about. I may at some point in the future see if it's viable to get a 4" downpipe worked out but I won't play with that until I start playing with a compound turbo set.
 
4" ... my goodness.. Looks good man- that is some nice work once again.
Did you use "v" clamps at the removable joints? Any issues with warping after welding?
 
Whoa, there's nothing wrong with a 5" chrome tip on a 4bt :hillbilly:

Looking forward to seeing more!
 
man that looks good. how much would you say it improved your EGTs by? If it's significant I might have to upgrade as well. I'm still running at about 1000* and could easily go higher.
 
Kief said:
Did you use "v" clamps at the removable joints? Any issues with warping after welding?
Click to expand...

I used two stainless steel strap clamps at the flex pipe connection (before muffler) and I used 1 v-band connection right after the muffler to make it easier to assemble under the rig. None of the connections leak so no warping at those points. I basically stitch welded and had my welder turned almost all the way down.

The Phoenician said:
... how much would you say it improved your EGTs by?
Click to expand...

I don't think it was significant, 50-100F probably. I always seem to go back and forth with tuning as well and on my current tune with the 4" I cannot get above 1200F when pushing it hard. On the freeway at ~70mph I run in the 800-900F range at 6-9 psi.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I'll have to add this to my list of things to do. I can easily get it to 1200. I typically cruise at 1000* doing 65-70 mph, but that's mostly cause I let off the pedal otherwise it would be higher. After that broken fuel line I'm overly paranoid about getting stranded somewhere remote so I'm trying to make the engine work within its comfort zone.
 
Cummins rates its motors to run at 1200* continuous, so running around 1000* is not a problem whatsoever, IMHO.

Mike what turbo are you running currently?
 
Update

I can't remember if I did this before or after the Utah trip but I'll post it up now. It would make sense that I did it before a long trip.

I wasn't having any issues but went ahead and replaced the water pump. A 6bt pump is suppose to work so I ended up on ebay searching. I wanted to make sure I got a replacement with the shroud covering the fins as I think those are a little better for flow. Here's the one I found next to my original.

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It's pretty easy to get to in my setup with electric fans.

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This one was challenging to get right as there are several variations to the belt tensioner. I wanted to replace my replacement since it was squeaking again and I wanted to use a different brand than daystar (my replacement). I finally got one that was correct for my 4bt and here is the winner.

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You can see on the backside how they machine off the nub depending on the application.

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The all important part number. It's a gates brand.

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I also made a new mounting plate out of a little thicker material.

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No more squealing and coupled with a new radiator and water pump I dropped operating temps 5 degrees with better load cooling when hitting the hills.
 
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