Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

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Just ordered the adapters from above link, $150 each. That was a little bit of an ouch but well cheaper than trying to modify my hubs and make some one-offs. He asked what width I wanted and I asked what my options were and he said the minimum would be 1 3/8". I decided on 2" width to put me around 62" wms up front. The 14bolt wms is 63". I expect them to be pretty close on stick out with what I look like now with the wide 38s.

I also pulled the plug for new tires and ordered some Goodyear MTR Kevlars in 37x12.50 R17. Their 38" version was stupidly more expensive so I'll run 37s. It'll be a little better for towing anyways. This will be the first time Dora has gotten brand new shoes.
 
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i have the key lock on my dana 70. zero issues

those bearings on the 14b/dana 70 hubs are beef. i dont see the spacer being an issue as far as the bearings go. as long as the bolts stay tight. i have had the bolts that secure my dana 70 axle shafts to the hubs come loose on several occasions-they are corse thread. i have remidied the problem with clean bolts, lots of torque, and red locktite. i would locktite the spacer bolts. the problem with the aluminum spacer is you can't overtorque them or the spacer bolts will twist in the aluminum spacer. i have wrecked 2 sets of spacers overtorqing them

and if you are getting rings for the lips of your new wheels why not just get beadlock rings and weld them up? i have lost a tire 3 times on my 80 due to not having locks and i have almost lost a tire countless times. i need to get them....new rig has 18" locks

my dad has stauns in his 14 bolt and d60 and they are a pain. he hates them. i hate them. he doesn't even air them up anymore. he would likely sell them cheap....but they are for a 15" wheel
 
10 bucks says Mike comes up with some "anti-corrosion" Macgyver rubber boot thing-a-ma-bob for the heims.

I say spray them s***s down with some Fluid Film, slap some sort of silicon seals on before the winter snow and call it good for the season. Check 'em in spring to see if it's all held up and see if there's any corrosion at all.

Something else to add Mike: if you haven't found a solution to going double shear yet, there are always these, which, according to the site, are a good solution in single shear applications. I have to admit I'm curious as to whether these with a 5/8" bolt would be stronger/safer than a 3/4" bolt with just the safety washer.
 
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Update

It was a pretty busy week and I got a decent amount of cruiser time in too. With some help I was able to get the passenger side tube set up and did a root pass on it. The driverside looks like it pulled out of alignment during setup tack welding so I stopped there and will do some cutting to set that side back up. Once I get the driverside done I will lay in the final pass on both and start reassembling this beast. I lost time running around but collected new bearings and seals for the hubs. I still need to pick up a better set of needle nose to get a better grip on those outer bearing retainer clips. My clips do not have 90 degree tangs on them so that may be why I'm having a little more trouble than others.

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I did come home with a little motivation to get the 8 lugs set up.

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I had to get a mock photo of Dora with her new shoes to see what she'd look like. Her new high heels are pretty much as tall as the 38s that are on right now. I'm sure they'll come down a tad with weight but I'm liking the look. The rim size kind of lightens the body weight. I had my rustbullet can open so I painted up most of the primed spots on the front bumper.

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Clint let me "borrow" his old steering box that was leaking since he got a deal on a rebuilt and ported one. I already had that other reseal kit but his box needed to be ported. So I cleaned it up, broke it down and started to drill. The Toyoda O is still the best place on that side. It's been drilled and tapped for 1/4 pipe thread to 6~AN fitting.

P6080072.JPG


The other port however is better placed tapping into the vein on the top of the box instead of at the end of the box where the inside piston travels. I did mine on the side of the vein and just opened up the passageway. From the side it's close to 3/4" deep to reach the vein.

P6080074.JPG


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Made sure I got all the metal shavings out and started putting it back together replacing seals as I went. Unfortunately a munched the piston seal when putting it back together so I had to reuse the old one on it.

P6080083.JPG


I primed and painted it silver like the box I was replacing. I don't know why I didn't notice this before but after I centered the box I saw alignment marks on the sector shaft that matched the pitman arm. So a head's up for others who haven't seen it yet either.

P6080082.JPG


Pulled the old box and put in the new. Hooked up all the lines and bled some air. Started it, cycled it, and then took it for a drive. All seems good.

So, having run two boxes now that have been ported differently I have found that having the second line ported off of the vein is smoother. Before it seems like the box or ram was catching up to each other on certain conditions and gave a minor ratcheting feeling at times. On the way to work today it was a one hander most of the way even with the mismatched tires on front. It's not nor probably won't even be a dead straight driver like a modern rig but I'm hopeful with the new tires and this new box highway driving will be more relaxing.
 
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Yeah, that's just the pic. I didn't get the tire lined up exactly, just leaned it up against the 38s that are mounted on the rig.

My parents didn't want the boat anymore (don't use it) so they gave it to the Portland siblings--I have a brother and sister up here too. Neither of them have any space so it's at my house plus they wouldn't know how to work on it anyways. It'll need some work (engine, upholstery) but I'm not even going to think about touching it this year. Too much other stuff to work on.
 
looking good Mike! Those 37s look sweet! Did you end up with the sleeves from Luke? You ready for a shakedownnext weekend for both trucks?

clint
 
No sleeves.

I'll be pushing the swap probably up to the last hour before the trip. If I can get the other side realigned and start reassembly next week I should be in good shape. If not I just have to push it off until after the trip. Sounds like you may be driving your rig now.
 
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Why don't you see if you can find a TPS off a Dodge Ram with the VE pump? It would be more factory like and reliable.

Since my TPS is on the fritz I've been looking around and a replacement TPS for a 93 cummins dodge is way expensive. There is an ebay offering but I'm amazed at how much a replacement TPS is for future costs. I'll definitely have to do something about mine. At least the one I'm running has allowed me some cheap experimentation. I do know that I want a counter clockwise TPS so I might walk the JY to get ideas and call a few part places to see their prices on the dodge TPS setup.

My tranny will still shift in auto but the t.converter lock-up cycles because the TPS is giving funky signals going in and out. I can still shift it manually via the manual setting and the selection knob on the unit if it gets worse before I get the TPS worked out. I'd really like to focus on my axle but this may pull me away for a day or two.
 
Clint let me "borrow" his old steering box that was leaking since he got a deal on a rebuilt and ported one. I already had that other reseal kit but his box needed to be ported. So I cleaned it up, broke it down and started to drill. The Toyoda O is still the best place on that side. It's been drilled and tapped for 1/4 pipe thread to 6~AN fitting.

2980945440041288937S600x600Q85.jpg


The other port however is better placed tapping into the vein on the top of the box instead of at the end of the box where the inside piston travels. I did mine on the side of the vein and just opened up the passageway. From the side it's close to 3/4" deep to reach the vein.

2756803370041288937S600x600Q85.jpg


2305969890041288937S600x600Q85.jpg


Made sure I got all the metal shavings out and started putting it back together replacing seals as I went. Unfortunately a munched the piston seal when putting it back together so I had to reuse the old one on it.

2386962960041288937S600x600Q85.jpg


I primed and painted it silver like the box I was replacing. I don't know why I didn't notice this before but after I centered the box I saw alignment marks on the sector shaft that matched the pitman arm. So a head's up for others who haven't seen it yet either.

2910421870041288937S600x600Q85.jpg


Pulled the old box and put in the new. Hooked up all the lines and bled some air. Started it, cycled it, and then took it for a drive. All seems good.

So, having run two boxes now that have been ported differently I have found that having the second line ported off of the vein is smoother. Before it seems like the box or ram was catching up to each other on certain conditions and gave a minor ratcheting feeling at times. On the way to work today it was a one hander most of the way even with the mismatched tires on front. It's not nor probably won't even be a dead straight driver like a modern rig but I'm hopeful with the new tires and this new box highway driving will be more relaxing.

Basic hydraulics suggests a different scenario.

2 separate boxes is not enough to determine the "best" porting location.

Next box I port, I'll do both ports and post up the difference.
 
Basic hydraulics suggests a different scenario.

2 separate boxes is not enough to determine the "best" porting location.

Next box I port, I'll do both ports and post up the difference.

Howso?

Not being snide; I honestly don't know what you mean :D
 
Main reason, You are tapping into the same basic channel. The pressure will be the same at either port. So you should not notice a difference between the two. When you tap the end of the box, you do have a larger chamber, but that has nothing to really do with the pressure of the fluid going through the hose.

By changing boxes, you are adding additional complexities to the experiment (for lack of a better term). Perhaps the bore in the first box was slightly worn and was creating the issue of the ram and steering box "catching up" with each other. I don't honestly know the answer if it is a better sport or not. But 2 separate boxes getting 2 separate results does not surprise me. I would not be surprised of both boxes were ported int eh exact same spot showed different results..
 
Basic hydraulics suggests a different scenario.

2 separate boxes is not enough to determine the "best" porting location.

Next box I port, I'll do both ports and post up the difference.

That will be a better test than mine. Both my boxes were rebuilt with the same kit, placed in a system with no other changes (pressure, linkage, tires, etc.). Differences on the internals of each box couldn't be seen by the naked eye and the bores had similar wear marks (I was actually kind of suprised by this) but there were probably differences between the two boxes. The results I saw seemed to suggest the ports are better matched in this second box than the first. The biggest difference now that I have been driving it a week on the same routes as before is smoother steering.

The other thing that caused me to think about a different port location is that in this vein is where Redneck ram ports their boxes (Dirtgypy's new box was a rebuilt and ported Redneck ram box). I figured there might be something to it if a box rebuilder is porting in a different location than I did. Not that this is any proof but when I returned to Trailgear to look up some info the picture shows their boxes are ported in the vein instead of the end as well. This may have been a recent change, I don't know.

I look forward to seeing your results but for now I'm happy with the improvement and still claim it's a better spot.
 
Mace, been awhile since anyone " MACED IT" ... we should get a stamp made like Jack's DENIED stamp that reads MACED IT....
Do you still have the white cruiser ?
 
Lol yep, still got the white cruiser. it's just been ignored since I've been working on the class 11 car and the 60.
 
The wheel adapters won't be showing up in time for our trip and I've been dealing with them for the past week. The order was put in at the beginning of the month. I'm disappointed with their customer service and won't be buying from them in the future. I will not recommend using them.
 
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that brings the suck! oh well. one less thing to do before our trip though. plus I may actually be able to get out there and help install it when the parts do show!

Clint
 

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